
Class _ J} -3. IS _ 
Copight\N" 

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



Twenty Thousand Miles 
by Land and Sea 




ARTHUR FRANCIS PENNOCK, A.B, 
INSIDE THE TEMPLE WALLS 



Twenty Thousand 
MiLELs BY Land and Sua 

By Arthur Francis Pe,nnock, a.b. 

OBERLIN COLLEGE ^ Jt ^ Jt 4t ^ ^ ^ ^ 

Experiences and Scenes in 
EUROPE, TURKEY, EGYPT, 
And PALESTINE ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ 



SAYINGS CONCERNING: "Once read, 
read again," " Valuable for information," 
"Makes Bible scenes interesting," ** Of 
much value for reference ** ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ 



Syracuse, New YorR : The Mason Publishing and 
Printing Company, 1901 ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^If ^ 



THE LIBRARY Of 
CONGRESS, 

Two CoptES Received 

SEP. 11 1901 

jCOPVRtOHT ENTRY 

CLASS <^XXc N». 
COPY B. 



Copyrighted 1901 
Arthur Francis PennocK 



■e «*^^ c6 o ^c^ c c 



CONTENTS 



PAGE 

CHAPTER I. Introduction 3 

CHAPTER 11. My Maiden Voyage ... 15 

CHAPTER III. In Old London 31 

CHAPTER IV. Westminster Abbey ... 55 

CHAPTER V. Land of Napoleon, Joan of 

Arc and Voltaire. ... 65 

CHAPTER VI. A Touch of Belgium 

and Germany 79 

CHAPTER VII. Heidelberg 91 

CHAPTER VIII. Lucerne 99 

CHAPTER IX. Milan 107 

CHAPTER X. Venice . 115 

CHAPTER XI. Florence 125 

CHAPTER XII. Mystic Rome 143 

CHAPTER XIII. Still in Mighty Rome . . . 161 

CHAPTER XIV. Naples 177 

CHAPTER XV. Athens 183 

CHAPTER XVI. Constantinople . . . . . 201 

CHAPTER XVII. Egypt ........ 223 

CHAPTER XVIII. Egypt ........ 243 

CHAPTER XIX. Egypt 263 

CHAPTER XX. Bible Land 281 

CHAPTER XXI. Jerusalem 303 

CHAPTER XXII. Road to Jericho 321 

CHAPTER XXIII. Our Riding Journey ... 341 

CHAPTER XXIV. Our Riding Journey . . . 357 

FINALE 363 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



PORTRAIT OF AUTHOR ..... Frontispiece 

NORTH TRANSEPT OF WESTMINS- 
TER ABBEY SHOWING GLAD- 
STONE'S TOMB Facing page 55 

NOTRE DAME " "75 

HEIDELBERG, VIEW OF CASTLE " " 92 

ST. MARK'S SQUARE ...... " "118 

DANTE'S TOMB, FLORENCE . . " "135 

APPIAN WAY " "173 

ACROPOLIS " "188 

MOSQUE OF ST. SOPHIA ... " "207 

CITADEL OF CAIRO " "230 

TEMPLE AT LUXOR " "236 

EGYPTIAN NATIVE " "249 

SCENE IN EGYPT " "273 

CHURCH OF HOLY SEPULCHRE " " 290 

THE SEA OF GALILEE .... " " 352 



Value of Travel and BooKs 
of Travel, 



CHAPTER I. 

INTRODUCTION. 
VALUE OF TRAVEL AND BOOKS OF TRAVEL. 

ii ^Y education present usage understands the 
Ij striving for the most complete develop- 
ment of man." It is true, there are 
many to whom the term, ''acquirement of 
knowledge," satisfies as a suitable definition 
of education. But such a definition is nar- 
row and superficial to a thoughtful mind. 
No, education is not acquirement of knowledge, 
alone. It means more than mere getting. Its 
sphere is more than becoming a walking library. 
Its ideal is not in a display of knowledge. Its 
aim is lofty, broad and generous. It is more 
kind than many book worms admit. 

"Education is a means to an end and this end 
is man at his test/' As an end it is only a ser- 
vant, but not futile. For it is not insignificant 
even as an end. It is according to the nature of 
the service a man performs that he is honored. 
So education is considered one of the most im- 
portant factors of life, because it is the servant 
of God's ideal of man, in the creation, to help 
him to the best understanding of manhood. This 



4: EUROPE. 

is the mission of education, exalted as it is, to 
complete God's ideal. 

This broader and true view of education, sug- 
gests that it is not to be sought alone in the con- 
fines of educational institutions. And no one can 
expect it to end with books, or nature, or men. 
It demands a reservoir as large and comprehen- 
sive as the world, to educate man. It demands 
not only knowledge of books, but wisdom, and 
understanding, in affairs of this comprehensive 
life, and boundless world. The ideal, or end of 
education, seemingly recedes as man nears it. 
The world, and contact with it, then, is the pro- 
cess of education. By it man is forced to grow 
within as well as without. What then can better 
secure this contact than travel ? What can stim- 
ulate this but open suggestive books of travel? 
Through meeting humanity, and the things that 
are, in travel, we come boldly against the phe- 
nomena of nature, and in turn, it furnishes 
direct knowledge. The traveler then knows 
things, rather than knows about them. 

Mr. Rice in his article on travel, says : ''Travel 
in itself is, it cannot be denied, a powerful edu- 
cator, yet the educational value of any tour, will 
depend largely upon the method in which it is 
undertaken." That is, travel may do much or 
little for a man. If aimless, the latter. If his 
aim is superficial, thoughtless or roaming, rather 



EUROPE. 



than a purposeful lingering on eyery thing he sees, 
a man cannot be called a traveler. But the kind 
of touring which marks everything with a pur- 
pose, and holds to that thing until it has taught 
the mind one, or perhaps a dozen lessons, is edu- 
cation in an objective as well as a subjective 
sense. It makes a man's soul larger; it makes 
his mind active, and ready for emergencies. 

A good acquaintance with the things of the 
world is not possible to any great extent without 
travel, and even in travel we are limited for 
time, means and comprehension. Yet travel is 
the very door to observation; and careful obser- 
vation is direct knowledge. The traveler is in a 
happy state, for he sees things for himself, rather 
than through the large brained or narrow 
brained eye of another. Reality, instead of 
dream, is his happy comprehension. Yet dreams 
and the. scenes of others are not despised, but 
more readily received and more eagerly grasped 
As F. von Lubken wrote : - He finds himself on 
the summit of Mount Rigi watching the sun for 
the ushering in of another day. Heavy mists 
hide the hills and the valleys from view But 
presently on the brink of the eastern horizon, he 
notices a red crimson growing larger and grand- 
er, until the whole Eastern sky seems a red 
blaze. Now a circle-shaped, constantly growing 
white mass emerges from this crimson flame. It 



6 EUROPE. 

penetrates the mist with its glowing beams and 
by its warming rays awakes all nature for the 
activities of the day. It rolls before the eye a 
charming landscape otherwise hidden. What 
ecstacy of soul he feels ! " I can sense it, for I 
have seen an Eastern sun rise. You can feel the 
impulse, for you have seen the sun rise on some 
glad lake, or from some fond hillside. But as 
the man stands enraptured he seeks to formulate 
in words what nature discloses. He sees what no 
artist can paint; he feels what no word painter 
can make him feel; he has learned what cannot 
be taught through any human agency. 

After Charles Dickens had visited Niagara 
Falls, and viewed them from ''Table Rock," 
he wrote: ''Then when I felt how near to my 
Creator I was standing, the first effect, and 
enduring one— the instant and the lasting— of 
the tremendous spectacle was peace— peace of 
mind, tranquillity, calm recollections of the dead, 
great thoughts of eternal rest and happiness, 
nothing of gloom or terror. Niagara was at once 
stamped upon my heart an image of beauty to 
remain there changeless and indelible until its 
pulses cease to beat forever. ' ' And it is sublime- 
ly true, you cannot rob a man of what he has 
seen. 

But travel is not limited to sunsets or sun- 
rises, to mountains, falls, oceans, or cities. It 



EUROPE. 7 

has a fairer field. You are led to the fields of 
the greatest geniuses which the world has pro- 
duced. Someone wrote : Edwin Markham after 
he had long gazed upon Millet's painting, leaves 
it, but leaves it as Edwin Markham, plus an 
abiding presence of impression, and conviction 
not to be subdued by time, but one that culmi- 
nated in the production of ''the strongest and 
most impressive poem, with the single exception 
perhaps, of Kipling's 'Recessional,' that has 
been written in any country in the last quarter 
of a century." Who can face the perfect art 
of the masters, or tread their empty halls, or visit 
their honored tombs, without new inspiration, 
without new hope, and the assurance of realizing 
their own undertakings? He cannot be the 
same man as before he saw these things. His 
world is larger. His thought is wafted, his gen- 
erosity and charity are increased, and his own 
genius is finer grained and more subtle. 

The subjective influence is this in travel : You 
have been esteemed by friends and honored by 
kindred. You must naturally grow to think 
yourself important and one among many. Self- 
consciousness is a master evil. But the traveler 
goes out amongst millions of this great world. 
He has scarcely gone out from his own habitation 
when he senses the feeling— I am only a child 
amongst millions of men, a grain of sand in the 



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creation. We walk with masses of men and we 
know we are unthought of, unseen. We climb 
the Egyptian Pyramid, or linger among the 
relics of the British Museum, or sit alone on the 
Acropolis at Athens, or kneel in the sacred ' ' gar- 
den of Gethsemane, ' ' a strange man, in a strange 
land, and conscious of greenness, yet by the 
actions of those around us, we feel that even our 
freshness is unnoticed. Who cares for my foot- 
step, or hears it ? Who longs for my return at 
meal time, unless my pocket is gold-lined; and 
then it is unimportant, for many such are pass- 
ing this way all the time. Who waits with a 
mother's heart my return to my lonely chamber? 
What is my life anyway? Why should God listen 
to my prayer ? And yet I say it, for there is no 
one else who cares to listen to me. These are the 
thoughts that seize the traveler in every out- 
going and incoming. And all this taught me a 
priceless lesson, however I may sometimes be 
noticed or seen, not to look upon myself, but 
away to others. It gives one the victory such as 
Wordsworth received when he wrote :— 

"Unknown, unthought of, yet I was most rich— 
I had a world about me— 'twas my own ; 
I made it for it only lived to me 
And to the God, who sees into the heart. ' ' 
This revelation of self enlarges one's mind. 

He turns away from self, and views his sur- 



EUROPE. 



roundings, and the greater men, and greater 
things all about him. His little hut or hermitage 
is passed or abandoned for the entrance into the 
stately palace of the great world, hung with the 
pictures of men unique and masterly. He 
glances upward, sets his gaze among the stars 
and cries unto his Creator for a longer life, and 
his prayer is surely answered. He may think 
his own land best, his own government first, but 
he learns that there are other governments, for 
other lands, which control men who achieve 
wonders in art, in manufacturing, and in com- 
merce. He may love the customs of his own 
people, but he mingles with those of different 
tastes, habits, dress, and language ; and finds that 
they are not by any means altogether bad, and 
proves the truth of the poem that reads : — 

"In a strange land. 
Kind things, however trivial, reach the heart, 
And through the heart the head, clearing away 
The narrow notions that grow up at home. 
And in their place grafting good- will to all." 

Travel contributes to the broadening of the 
mind in making a man a citizen of two countries. 
Says Lubken : "1 like to think of the man who 
has traveled considerably as one holding a double 
citizenship— that of his own native land and 
that of the world. And why not ? Has not his 
narrow-compassed sympathy taken on wings, as 



10 EUROPE. 

it were, and now reaches to the ends of the 
earth ? How can he be otherwise than interested 
in the nations of the earth! Has he not trod 
their grounds, observed their customs, learned 
their aspirations, met their people, and in some 
measure, entered into their lives, sharing their 
sorrows and joys?" Wordsworth said: — 

''When I began to inquire, 
To watch and question those I met, and speak 
Without reserve to them, the lonely roads 
Were open schools in which I daily read 
With some delight the passions of mankind, 
Where by words, looks, sighs, or tears revealed ; 
There saw into the depths of human souls— 
Souls that appear to have no depths at all 
To careless eyes." 

We read in history how in Greece, the mistress 
of the sea, and particularly in Athens, a seaport, 
and not in Sparta, an inland city, philosophy 
had its rise. The reason was because Athens in 
her commercial interests met foreigners, and in 
contact with them learned their manners and 
customs. And, too, Greece had her colonies to 
govern and had to recognize their habits, tend- 
encies, and customs and desires. This mingling 
with nations and various peoples of wide diffu- 
sion of nature and temperament caused Greece 
to make changes in her polity. And so they had 
to readjust their notions and customs. And it was 



EUROPE. 11 

this vast change in herself, and her plans of gov- 
ernment to suit all, that stimulated the philo- 
sophic spirit; and so here, this great science of 
many branches was born. 

The experience of an individual who travels 
is similar to this. He may not be called to solve 
world problems, but nevertheless travel will 
greatly arouse his thinking powers. Govern- 
ments and nations and their problems will seize 
you and you will unconsciously be planning for 
them, settling their knotty problems. The 
changes in climate tax the mind unconsciously. 
The customs and costumes of the people are de- 
liberated uJDon without effort. The advantages 
of education and entire want of it seek a just 
consideration in the mind's absence of thought, 
if this were possible. What food for thought, 
what material for investigation, is piled up in a 
short journey? How your eyes do open to 
things around you when you reach home, how 
much more observant of things at home you be- 
come! Your heart is larger, your sympathies 
are stirred, you are in a land of nations breath- 
ing into your mind refreshment from every 
quarter. You have necessarily become a more 
thoughtful man. 

The reading of the books of travel stimulates 
the same spirit of broader thought. In this 
brief volume it is not the author's purpose so 



12 EUROPE. 

much to inform, as to suggest subjects for 

thought. It may stimulate the mind and thus 

build roads to future discoveries. 

In the words of Will Carleton, in the ''Belle 

of Manhattan," is well put :— 

"These lines are naught against such college 
men 
Who strengthen up their lore with common 

sense ; 
Who think of colleges as little worlds, 
But worlds within a larger, grander world ; 
Who do not let the frosts of theory 
Congeal the waves of practice ; who can dream 
In temple built by thought— and wake again ; 
Who do not stoop to bid the unchanging Past 
Enslave the Present; who their students fire 
With action as with precept ; who believe 
That scholarship should show itself in deeds. 
As well as words and phrases ; who send out 
Into life 's fields as graduates, not clay lumps 
Sodden with studies full of untried rules. 
And buried 'neath the clods of precedence ; 
And who are of, as well as in, the world. 
Long live such educators !— and if e'er 
Must die the other kind, then let their graves 
Lie undisturbed." 

A. F. Pennock, 
With suggestions from Prof. F. von Lubken. 



My Maiden Voyage, 



EUROPE. 15 

CHAPTER II. 

MY MAIDEN VOYAGE. 

BOLDLY, and yet not a little anxious, it 
being my first launch on an ocean steamer, 
did I board the gallant steamship, Min- 
neapolis, Friday evening, January 4, at 10:30, 
1901. We spent a few minutes in scanning 
the floating palace. In every sense she seemed 
to be worthy of her burden. I felt as safe as 
when in boyhood I was folded in my Christian 
mother's arms and was ''laid down to pleasant 
dreams. ' ' And stretching myself serenely, after 
arranging my toilet for the peculiar goings at 
sea, I laid down in a clean white stateroom, pro- 
vided with every convenience of a modern home, 
and committing my people and friends to God— 
I slept as a little child. 

The Minneapolis is a modern hotel, six hun- 
dred and fifty feet long, well worthy of her bur- 
den of 15,500 tons. She is too proud to stay on 
land for she vaunts of the resistless bosom, and 
the fathomless depths of the kisses of the swells 
of the ocean. This is her eighth trip. She was 
launched in March, 1900. Every inch of her is 
new. She is proud, and yet not high and 
haughty, having four decks below, and only 
three above the water line. Still modest and 



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greatly in love with her captain, she obeys him 
as well in tempest as in calm. She is in love 
with her burden also, and with the birds of the 
air. And from her hands some hundred sea 
gulls are constantly fed. These white winged 
angels hover about her by night and by day, 
sleeplessly watching its ever increasing flock, 
which seems never to touch her spars or decks. 
They sing no songs but in their prey for food 
sometimes screech like wrens. In their quiet 
flight and healthy beauty, they speak tales we 
have no time to pen, of the varied and sumptuous 
diet this ship furnishes both to guests within 
and without. She burns over one hundred tons 
of coal a day, and has a double engine in case of 
accident. She works as smoothly as the ball 
bearings of a wheel, and propels us unceasingly 
onward at the rate of 376 miles daily. Her din- 
ing room and halls are finished in white oak, 
even the floors being inlaid and matted. The 
iron of which she is builded presents a snowy 
whiteness in the staterooms, finished and fur- 
nished with dark mahogany. The rooms are 
about 7x8 feet, containing two bunks on the one 
side, of white iron frame and easy woven springs, 
abundantly furnished with fine mattresses, cov- 
ers and pillows. On the outside of the cabin a 
fine wide sofa, with pillows to match the beau- 
tifully flowered denim covers and tapestry of 



EUROPE. 17 

the berths, is secure and leisurely easy. This 
ship carries 250 passengers with diverging tastes, 
natures, personalities and nationalities, and all 
first-class. The nature of these written out 
would fill a book like Mark Twain 's ' ' Innocents 
Abroad, ' ' with humor and pathos sublime. The 
library on the upper deck contains many well 
bound, interesting books. It is the parlor, the sit- 
ting room and intelligence office of things which 
ought to be heard and known. And it also is the 
place of some things, if I could, I would not tell. 
Here we lounge on the beautifully upholstered 
mahogany settees, and listen to foamy, but cour- 
teous conversation of English and American 
ladies, while we try to read and write. Surely, 
this is quite a change from the reveries of a 
bachelor's study, on the St. Lawrence. The 
ceiling and sides of this room are beautifully 
molded and carved, finished in gilt and white, 
with elegantly stained windows, in designs both 
American and English. These afford by means 
of a crank spring easy and sweetest ventilation. 
The domed skylight in the center is indeed pic- 
turesque in beauty, all of which floods this pala- 
tial room with softened, tender light. 

My companion is E. A. Jones, M. D., of To- 
ronto, a young man with dark brown hair, gray 
eyes, prominent Roman nose, common-sensed, 
and of good strong bearing, rather than hand- 



18 EUROPE. 

some. He is unselfish, and most pleasant and 
happy. He is on his way to London to take a 
post-graduat.e course in surgery; and while I 
remain in London we shall put up at the First 
Avenue Hotel together. To make plain how 
agreeable friends may be, I tell what took place 
as the chamber steward called us one morning 
and brought his usual morning greeting, a cup 
of coifee and a wafer. 

Sipping my coffee and finding it too strong, I 
stopped to soliloquize concerning the storm- 
tossed sea of the past night. In so doing, I laid 
the whole expense of the cosy rockings of the 
deep which only seemed to increase my sound- 
ness of sleep, to the Jonah sickness of my chum. 
Pounding on the bunk above me I asked the stew- 
ard if the storm did not cease at once, to throw 
the Doctor overboard. Human-like, he retali- 
ated, and not knowing that I held in my hand a 
cup of hot coffee, he flung his pillow from the 
bunk above which struck the coffee cup and sent 
its contents flying all over my slumber robe. I 
had a hot bed-fellow, and with a bound separated 
myself, and shook him off standing erect, and 
suddenly, by the side of the steward. I was 
unharmed, but somewhat stained. The steward 
looked perplexed, then smiled and ran out of the 
room with a rollicking bound. Immediately he 
returned with a fresh cup of coffee, shook the 



EUROPE. ^^ 



bed stripped off the covers and said, "the joke 
is good enough," and the cabin will be made 
all right for the Dominie and Doctor. This 
freak of human nature was told at the breakfast 
table, and made merriment to disturb the monot- 
ony of one meal on shipboard. 

When we were about thirty miles out of New 
York harbor, the chamber steward (R. A. Wal- 
ker) cried- ''Any mail can be handed to a 
steamer at Sandy Hook." The letters were given 
to the steward and the captain, lowering himselt 
by a rope ladder, was rowed to the nearby 
steamer, where he carefully deposited our mail. 
The next spectacle of interest was the practice 
of lowering the life boats by a green crew of 
boys. The false, fumbling motions, as they 
were tossed by the brisk sea were very raw and 
somewhat unwilling. But the captain was a 
firm, stern Englishman, and soon brought them 
to time by a few sharp orders. The day was 
clear, and we spied the last land off Fire Island 
without a regret for its receding view, or one 
sigh for home. On we swept steadily and 
strongly over the waters green. We sang, we 
promenaded. We lay in our cosy cabin wrapped 
in our sea-rug. We read; we conversed; we 
scanned the books of the library and other great- 
er books written in the faces of a strange people. 
The salt sea baths were so refreshing, that often 



20 EUROPE. 

I frequented their secluded place of inspiratory 
influence ; and cleared away every possible touch 
of the land journey's soilings. While dressing 
after my night's bath, a stupendous gale 
everything whirling, even my head. But soon 
stretched upon my neat, comfortable berth I was 
sound asleep, "Rocked in the cradle of the 
deep." And I "knew no waking" until the 
steward's low tread led him into our cabin, to 
steal our boots and cover them with a glossy 
polish. 

An English gentleman by the name of Bach- 
elor, sits opposite me at the table, our seats hav- 
ing been assigned the second day at noon. He 
had worn himself out in a close bank building, 
and has been in hale and hearty America for 
improved health. He is quiet in his make-up, and 
serves to steady the voluptuous maiden who sits at 
his right. Ours is the captain 's table, and he has 
in his nature much of merriment for everyone. 
The stewards, with precise movements and 
smooth voices display the large dyspeptic menu 
which, if rightly used, contains much of sturdy 
health and substantial strength. The stewards 
were much alarmed for my health on ship-board, 
because I did not take wine. They urged and 
pleaded most earnestly for me to partake of some 
simple wines at least. I think they had much 
in mind the extras this would bring them, as well 



EUROPE. 21 

as my health. But finding a firm American, 
they at last said, ''All right, sir," and passed 
on. But I am anything but sick, and find as 
rich a glow on my cheek as any passenger on 
board. I did not miss a meal, but the lovers of 
wine had sea-sickness. Daniel's food has 
abundance of nutritious virtue, and one drink 
of nature's simple water has more health than 
sips or barrels of wine, for most people. 

Monday morning a sip of coffee and a salt 
water bath woke me up for the whole day and 
sweetly toned my whole system. Breakfast done, 
the library seemed a charming place, while I 
read the "Last Days of Pompeii," in prepara- 
tion for my visit. That book finished, Milton's 
''Paradise Lost" and Mark Twain's "Innocents 
Abroad," chained my mind, and most happily 
cheered the remainder of my journey. 

Then when we had lunched at noon Monday, 
we watched a small ship 's approach, and thought 
how our world's rotundity was so wonderfully 
conceived in so simple a manner by our dauntless 
and heroic Columbus. And we resolved to see 
Genoa, his birth-place, if possible. We desired 
to kneel at his tomb with reverential eyes, and 
grateful soul. 

Then an English girl's freak broke up all of 
the monotony of the day. No American girl is 
so dependent. The English girl assumes a right 



22 EUROPE. 

to ask any gentleman to put her in her chair, 
and to keep you close by, for a half hour, tucking 
up her feet in a sea rug, smoothing the fringe of 
the robe, saying she is dry, etc. Then when all 
her wants are supplied, she reels off a tub of soft- 
ness, of a 's and rr 's and a novel of flattery, much 
of which is affected or defected, so that for your 
life, ere you leave her, you wonder whether she 
is, or is not. An American girl's common sense 
and realness appeals to me. 

While I wrote this the telephone bell was 
ringing ceaselessly, and I wondered if all the 
London bells were wound up forever, and were 
so alarming. Tuesday morning at sun rise, I 
saw from our cabin window a great water spout 
one-half mile in the distance. The steward told 
me it was a whale. Dressing quickly, I ran out 
on deck, and saw him blow the water twenty feet 
into the air with a careless grace. All at once 
he stopped spouting and the whale was "out of 
sight." Disappointment and future hope 
mingled in my mind, while back to the cabin I 
turned. Then through the port window a fly- 
ing-^sh appeared. It would fly above the water 
until its wings were dry, and then plunge to wet 
them again, as they are wont to do ; audit occurred 
to me that the water world was as full of freaks 
as the land. Then we came to the banks of 
Newfoundland, and the breezes were a little 



EUROPE. 23 

fresh and cold. The first real strong seas of the 
voyage began to lash our ship's sides furiously, 
and her strength sent them flying into the air. 

Then this very day one of the young men, 
with several maidenish women, began to plan a 
euchre party for Wednesday evening, to relieve 
the dull stupidity of their monotonous thoughts, 
I suppose. They w^ere sure the minister would 
join them and their courtship was painstaking, 
indeed. Very modestly, but firmly, I repeated to 
them, over and over, "that I did not play the 
game." ''But satan has some mischief still for 
idle hands to do." Then I said, ''No," and 
they ansAvered, ' ' We shall see you again ; we will 
not take that for your final decision. ' ' My reply 
was, ' ' It is decided, and your efforts will be in 
vain, ' ' and thanked them for the courtesy. 

The evening came, the score cards were printed, 
and a ten dollar bill was put up by the members 
for prizes. Then the conscience began to assert 
its rights, and they 'hemmed, hesitated, and 
finally arranged a scheme to excuse the con- 
science for the gambling evil. A committee of 
one was sent to say to me that the purse was to 
be given to the "Seaman's and Orphans' Fund," 
and ask me to make remarks at the close of the 
game appropriate to the occasion concerning 
their needs. I thought a minute, and said 
"Yes." I could not refuse to do this. It was 



24 EUROPE. 

God's opportunity and he put the thought into 
my mind strongly and held me most kindly and 
gently while I spoke of being sent by four sad 
mothers to rescue their boys from a gambling 
saloon, who confessed to me that card playing 
led them to the evil. And I could not join the 
game that led them to ruin. They, the world, 
nor God, would not forgive me if I should. And 
I said that I did not judge them, only myself. 
That I felt as kindly toward everyone as if they 
were as strict as myself. The careless world 
needs rebukes, but kindness, charity, generosity, 
and a chance to mend. Their good deed of giv- 
ing to the orphans was commended, they were 
urged to a generous, self-sacrificing life, not only 
for the orphans who were hungry for food, but 
sacrificing as well for the millions of fallen ones 
and the spiritual orphans of the world. We'll 
wait for eternity to see the results of the little 
chance meeting. But there was no more euchre 
on that trip, and I found many friends among 
them all. My opinion is confirmed in this : ' ' No 
one loses by being strong on the side of safety 
and right, if they forget not to be charitable." 

Friday night as we approached the place in 
the ocean called the ''Devil's Hole/' the wind 
began blowing furiously. All night this solid, 
firm ship, whose steadiness I loved, ' ' rocked us, ' ' 
but not to sleep. Saturday morning it rained 



EUROPE. 25 

and blew from the southeast terrifically. The 
racks were put on the table to hold the dishes 
firm. We had to learn to reach awkwardly over 
the table to now and then put a crumb or sip of 
coffee to our lips. And only three appeared, 
even for the purpose of refreshments. All day 
Saturday it continued to blow, and we had no 
monotonous water level at sea, but mountains 
piled on mountains of huge ''swells," which 
were ugly instead of gentle, as in flirtations. We 
shipped seas and some we could not ship, they 
ran too high, and even jumped over 40 foot decks 
and rode on in the gale seemingly undaunted. 
Many were provoked at this boldness, and spent 
their wrath by heaving into the sea that which 
was most obnoxious to themselves. 

My mind was calm and fascinated by the curi- 
ous freaks of the ocean, and I sang: — 

"Jesus, Saviour, pilot me 
Over life 's tempestuous sea ; 
Unknown waves before me roll. 
Hiding rock and treacherous shoal; 
Chart and compass came from Thee, 
Jesus, Saviour, pilot me." 

I found no time for revenge on the wrath of 
the waters. "A ship was made to float and float 
it must" was my constant faith. I don't know 
why, "but what some curse in this world others 
smile at." When the storm abated, Sunday 



26 EUROPE. 

morning, the captain said: "The minister is a 
natural sailor; without wine, beer or whiskey, 
he is happiest in the severest gale. ' ' 

Sunday we came to the ''Lizards," so called 
from the long-tailed, elongated likeness to the 
animal so named, and then to " Start Light 
House" in the English Channel, on our left. 
Then land was in view only three or four miles 
off, and all the passengers looked changed in 
countenance, and they smiled like children, who 
can see the object of their hope almost within 
grasp. The land scene was very picturesque, 
since it was large hills grading from the water 
back to the height of six or seven hundred feet. 
Land does seem magnificently beautiful after a 
long, hard ocean voyage. No wonder Columbus 
went into ecstacy over San Salvador. The lands- 
men were plowing then, Jan. 14, and the plowed 
and the unplowed lands on the slanting hillsides 
looked like one vast, fancy checker-board, with 
hedges bounding it, for hedges are their fences 
here. It was a fine view we had also from our 
peaceful deck, of the ships, and crafts, of every 
sort, going, coming and standing, in the great 
channel as we entered at night. The next morn- 
ing was as bright and clear as a maiden's face, 
as we were anchored in the mouth of the Thames, 
waiting for the tide to come in at 3 p. m. .Then 
we went up the river with a special pilot, and 



EUROPE. 27 

reached our hotel at 8 o'clock, tired, sleepy, and 
thankful, child-like. We were one day ahead of 
time in spite of the storm. For Captain Lay- 
land ^s a seaman bold, and hustles in good, and 
speeds on in bad weather. 

Some of the people we met :— 

A Mr. McLaughlin, of Brooklyn ; an owner of 
fancy paper mills in New York, London and 
Paris; was genial, full of wit, saw everything 
sad or happy, important or unimportant, and 
proved himself a most useful and entertaining 
friend. He spent one day showing me London, 
and tried to plan his business to go with me to 
Paris. In this he failed, but he proved to be a 
Congregationalist, and a Christian millionaire. 

Mr. Munen, of Toledo, Ohio, was on board, 
conveying to the Whitings of Brighton, two 
gamy, fancy bred mares. The Whitings were 
once Americans, but are now owners of a mil- 
lionaire estate at Brighton, England, and still 
love our noble equines. Mr. Munen owns a stock 
farm and has made his fortune breeding fine car- 
riage horses. He has the honor of raising and 
training the fastest stallion on record. He is a 
very common-sensed, pleasant, unassuming man 
with good habits, and leans toward better things 
—the Christian life. 

Miss , an English woman, teacher 

and chaperone of two young ladies, was well 



28 EUROPE. 

informed, and almost a freak of forty-five or 
fifty years. But she was English, every inch, 
and you could have a healthy argument in a 
minute, if you contrasted England with Amer- 
ica. She could say more words you could not 
understand, produce more flattery and nonsense, 
or state as many facts in a minute, as any com- 
mon man could endure. 

A Miss , of London, who had been in 

Toronto, Canada, for a year, aspired to be the 
belle of the boat. She succeeded in being eccen- 
tric, and indeed had charms; but she did not 
ring the changes rightly to secure friends or 
prove herself eminent generally. She seemed 
very different from American women. She was 
false, pretentious, flattering beyond endurance. 
But one could observe the passengers trying to 
be kind and courteous for the sake of quickly 
escaping her pretense. 

I must stop or tire you. I am praying in the 
words of Milton for myself and you: ''Lord, 
rid me of everything that is impure. Make me 
not false, but a true man." 



In Old London. 



EUROPE. 31 

CHAPTER III. 

IN OLD LONDON. 

Impressions of London— Its Feople— Convey- 
ances— Bishop's Funeral— Buckingham Palace 
—St. James Park— Hyde Park— Its Lake and 
Statues— Kensi7igton Gardens— Lunch and Con- 
cert Hall— Omnibus Ride— The Mansion House 
—London Bridge — Parliaments — Whitehall- 
British Museum— First Avenue Hotel Pictures- 
History of the Toiver-Gin and Beer— Crown 
Jewels— Madafn Tussaud's Waxworks— National 
Gallery— St. PauVs— Joseph Parker's Service. 

LONDON is a solid city, from its pavements 
up. The streets are very slimy during the 
winter months, notwithstanding. People 
look at you with astonishment if you wear over- 
gaiters. You are astonished at the condition in 
which you find your feet if you go without them. 
The pavements are for the most part six inches of 
concrete, with four inches of best Northern pine 
block on the surface. This indicates to the 
traveler the pains taken not only to make the 
feet of their horses comfortable, but the constant 
watch and care, to provide ease and pleasure for 
them, generally. But nearly all winter the 
slush and mud is one-half inch deep, both on 
Avalks and drives, so one needs to step guardedly 



32 . EUROPE. 

lest they fall into a shallow pit of mire. The 
populace in short skirts, rolled up pants, and 
heavy soled shoes, plod on with smiles as if the 
streets were gold. Their cultured minds may 
look up, but often into fogs. Be that as it may, 
they give you the left side of the walk, and bear 
the grace of cheerfulness. 

The streets are poorly lighted, and for the most 
part with gas. They burn soft coal, and this 
makes the London fog nearly two-thirds smoke. 
But one grows accustomed to this in time, and 
minds it not, for classic London has other things 
for aspiring eyes to gaze at, in her cathedrals, 
museums, art galleries, gardens, libraries and 
parks. But when the sun does peer through the 
clouds, as if hazed, one worships New York with 
her clearer air, and dotes on the Orient of sun- 
shine. Many of the streets are very narrow. 
The buildings are generally low and poorly 
fronted. Yet the modern parts of London have 
fine squares— they call them circuses— and some 
nice, broad avenues. Victoria Place, Grosvenor 
Place, and their continued streets, have all the 
modern graces of Fifth Avenue, New York, with 
elegant flats pushing up into the blue vault six 
or eight stories high. Trafalgar Square, Port- 
man, Russell, Hanover Squares, Lincoln's Inn 
Fields, and other parts of the city are of exqui- 



EUROPE. 33 

site taste. But "Old London" is what modern 
cities would term conservative. 

The public parks are fine in their breadth and 
grandeur. They are fitted for healthful exer- 
cise in riding, driving, and other sports, and are 
well honored with monuments. They furnish 
intellectual and artistic culture. The public 
buildings are roomy and grand. 

The people of London wear good faces, fine 
forms, and are neat in deportment. They look, 
they seem, they are cultured. In the practical 
American's judgment they are too set, formal 
and imitative. "What one Englishman wears, they 
all wear. What one talks about, they all talk 
about. If you do not fall in line and do just as 
the English do, they will make themselves foolish 
with their jargon of criticism which may not 
contain a grain of sense. They can not creep up 
to the thought of the world concerning them- 
selves, as well as all cities:— ''There are others." 
They are prolific in their expressions. I heard 
a lady tell her friends in an easy air about losing 
her purse : " In a moment of aberration and com- 
plete oblivion, and amid the grotesque gymnas- 
tics of the zephyrs, I lost my purse. ' ' Many like 
sentences have I heard while in this greatest of 
cities. One phrase of the English an American 
could not use with grace. I doubt if they can 
use it with propriety. If the weather is unpro- 
2 



34 EUROPE. 

pituous, or something goes wrong, they exclaim, 
''It's nasty." 

The city is nearly circular and thirty miles in 
diameter, with crooked streets and lanes cutting 
and crossing each other somewhat heterogeneous- 
ly. To carry three million five hundred thou- 
sand people about the city, the streets are packed 
full of hansoms and omnibuses. Because of 
their multitude of conveyances, you cannot' see 
down, up, nor across the street unless you ride 
on the top of an omnibus. These go everywhere, 
are reasonable in price, and quite comfortable, 
for they stop people from entering when the 
seats are full. But it seems a hundred years 
behind the electric car system. 

The Hoyal Bishop of London, Dr. Creighton, 
died just before we entered the city, Monday 
evening. The flags were at half-mast, the 
chimes and bells rang out the people's loss and 
sorrow. For he had, indeed, been a great and 
good man for the city of London. 

Buckingham Palace is a massive structure, 
wide in extent, and built on a grand scale of 
architecture. It joins the street which sweeps 
across the southeast corner of Grreen Park and 
overlooks the wide, expansive green of this ex- 
tensive landscape garden. This has been the 
home of the Prince of Wales, and here were great 
bodies of people, waiting to hear the last news 



EUROPE. 35 

from the grand, Royal Queen Victoria's sick- 
bed. We had but left the city when the crash of 
her death came to her adoring people; and all 
the land was wrapped in gloom from the hum- 
blest servant to the Lords of Parliament. Along 
the Park side of the street, guards stood in their 
little pavilions gorgeously helmeted. Sentinels 
ceaselessly paced the pavement with much show 
and dignified grandeur. These made a stately 
appearance and provided a careful watch. 

Just inside the Park is the standing army of 
England drilled. And as our eyes admired the 
palace, our ears heard the sound of martial music 
and the heavy, regular tramp, tramp, of feet. 
It was the Queen's army in full uniform at drill. 
Some five hundred stout, intelligent looking fel- 
lows made up the regiment of reds, and they 
were led on by a small cavalry. The English 
soldier has that rowdyish look from his custom of 
wearing his cap over one ear, instead of on his 
head. Otherwise his uniform and carriage are 
very attractive. 

The Palace gardens extend along the Park, 
and spread their floral beauty and silvery foun- 
tain spray over many acres. These gardens are 
shut in by a heavy wall about eight feet high, 
overgrown with a thick mat of ivy. Within is a 
variety of hardy shrubbery, mixed with much of 
holly, which abounds in London parks. The 



36 EUROPE. 

grass was as green as in May, and the whole 
grounds had the beautiful effect of filling the 
mind with that which a soul feels is unexpressi- 
ble. 

St. James Park lies just east of Buckingham 
Palace, and embraces ninety acres of area, and 
it contains beautiful gardens, lawns, drives and 
promenades. Some of its palm and floral 
mounds present a picture to the eye that holds 
the heart of nature up to the face of man, most 
gracefully. Laid out by Henry the Eighth, of 
Anne Boleyn fame, and the executor of Sir 
Thomas More, 1540, A. D., it was finally ar- 
ranged and perfected by George the IV. And 
the last kind strokes to grace these grounds were 
by the hands of our matchless Queen, Victoria. 
St. James Palace lingering near by is a massive 
ornament and a charming royal home. The 
House of Marlborough standing out in promi- 
nence adds dignity to the scene and recalls many 
acts of 1700. 

Hyde Park stretches itself in the form of a 
parallelogram off at the west beyond Green Park. 
This is London's most admired and picturesque 
landscape view. It contains 395 acres with its 
''Rotten Row," ''Ladies' Mile," and finely laid 
out grounds for horseback riding. Here the 
elect of social rank and fashion, and the wealth 
of London, at their convenient hours drive, ride, 



EUROPE. 37 

stroll and satisfy their greed for nature's pure 
air, and their eyes' deep longing for the simple 
landscape, carved by river and lake and terrace. 

It contains a winding lake, called the Serpen- 
tine, from its crooked shape, which extends from 
a point near Albert Gate to the Kensington Gar- 
dens. Its clear waters have a charm for many 
Londoners, and they are said to have a fad so 
strong for its cleansing waters, that they even 
break the ice to bathe in its resistless bosom. 
However, on Jan. 16, there was no ice, and 
kneeling on its cobble paved shore, I bathed my 
hands. I trust they are free from guilt, but 
strong for labor. This act cost me the loss of a 
suspender button. 

Opposite the great entrance of this park 
stands a grand statue of Achilles. It is made of 
the metal of the cannons taken at the battles of 
Salamanca, Yittoria, Toulouse and Waterloo. 
This monument is erected and inscribed to the 
memory of the Duke of Wellington, and his com- 
panions in arms, by the women of England. 
This great man lives, as the stars, in England's 
mind, for near the Apsley House is another 
statue of Wellington, mounted on his famous 
charger, which opens books full of historic inter- 
est. 

Here on these grounds on a place called Con- 
stitution Hill, Sir Robert Peel fell from his 



38 EUROPE. 

horse (the hero of " '37" on the St. Lawrence, 
from whom Peel dock is named^ and the old 
ship's anchor lies in memory in plain view by 
the carriage road opposite the dock.) In this 
spot the Queen's life has been threatened and 
assaulted three times. 

Many magnificent monuments, shafts and mar- 
ble pillars, gilded and surrounded by sculptured 
groups, find a place here. Especially the statue 
to Prince Albert towers up 125 feet high, and 
with gothic form marks the gate entrance oppo- 
site Albert Concert Hall. The bronze statue of 
Poet Byron stands here, mounted on a tilted 
granite pedestal sixteen feet in height. He 
wrote: — 

''Nor are my mother's wrongs forgot; 
Her slighted love and ruined name. 
Her offspring's heritage of shame, 
Shall witness for thee from the dead 
How trusty and how tender were 
Thy youthful love— paternal care !" 

Kensington Garden is really a part of Hyde 
Park, extending on to the west, and is a great 
drive, and place of leisure strolling, in the band 
playing season. It contains magnificent art 
displays and galleries of sculpture. It spreads 
out before the eye floral scenes of fascinating 
fondness, in its circular, triangular, and raised 



EUROPE. 39 

forms of beds, studded with rich plants and 
choice flowers. 

Fascinated by scenes, we have over-stepped 
the dinner hour, and now move out of the Park 
in search of a lunch. Dr. Jones and Mr. Bache- 
lor are now setting the pace. And as we come 
to the "Great Albert Concert Hall" we read the 
posters which announce that our stay is one day 
too brief to hear any worthy oratorio. So we 
entered the hall just out of the gate opposite 
Albert monument, and found it a magnificent 
structure of brick, circular in form, amphithea- 
tre in style. It is said to be the largest hall, 
strictly speaking in the world; and seats com- 
fortably with its magnificent galleries of acoustic 
perfection, 15,000 people. Its ventilation, its 
easy sittings and artistic finish, make it pleasant 
for long programs of classic singing. "Weary of 
limb, we soon found a lunch and came away 
gratified. Then for the afternoon we took the 
omnibus ride, with coats buttoned up to the chin 
and gathered a general knowledge of much of the 
business and resident part of the city. And 
though this great city is a marvel in many ways, 
it is befogged in its business enterprise, as well 
as in its atmosphere, in comparison with many 
first-class American cities. 

In the tramp of the evening we called at ^^The 
Mansion House," the home-elect of Lord Mayor 



40 EUROPE. 

Green of London. This is his home for the year, 
since no mayor is elected for a longer period than 
one year. The home is builded of Portland 
stone, and the inside is magnificently decorated 
with silk tapestry, grand paintings and sculp- 
ture, displayed -by night under brilliant lights. 
The house is well planned for festive occasions 
which often occur here. The children of the 
elect had just finished a grand Lord and Lord- 
lady party the night before our visit. We hap- 
pened to see the Lord Mayor's chariot waiting 
his appearance. Its driver, with a wig of grey, 
crinkled hair, and the two attendants decorously 
dressed, and beaming faces of youthful bright- 
ness and regularity, made a most imposing pic- 
ture. The Lord Mayor came out from his man- 
sion and was with great care ushered into his 
chariot with a beautifully dressed young lady, 
probably his daughter. He is quite an old man, 
short in stature, very feeble, and inferior look- 
ing. But he fills the place, spending on his 
turnout alone $10,000 a year. 

The London Bridge did not appeal to our 
party's mind as among the wonderfuls, only as 
being historic, and a strong mass of stone mason- 
ry, unartistic, 928 feet long. Its abutments and 
solid driving surface are useful, and that is a 
great virtue anywhere. While coming from the 
bridge we saw the London Fire Company turn 



EUROPE. 41 

out. They did not fly like an American Com- 
pany, but dressed in fine suits and accomplished 
their work very well. 

King William's monument met our eyes as we 
strolled back to 1st Avenue Hotel. It is well 
built of gray granite raised to a height of thirty 
feet, decorating otherwise a lonely square. 

TliG Parliaments of England were of a slow 
but steady growth; and the buildings which 
cover them were constructed in moderation of 
time but with imposing grandeur and extent. 
The buildings are best viewed from the river 
side and they stand ''en masse" for a great dis- 
tance along near its bank. 

We approached the buildings from a square, 
at the edge of which, before we made the descent, 
stood with others, Claybourne 's, and the Law- 
rence monuments. The English do not forget to 
memorize their great. But descending the 
stone stairway, just at the entrance of Whitehall 
and Parliament grounds, is a monument to the 
Duke of York. It has a graded height of 120 
feet, built of gray smoked granite, and contains 
an entrance with winding staircase leading to its 
capital for the convenience of visitors. The 
council buildings, Whitehall, Westminster and 
the Parliament buildings present a wealthy view 
from this standpoint. The remains of White- 
hall, or all that stands since the burning in 



42 EUROPE. 

William III.'s time, is the banqueting hall, well 
kept, and by no means inferior to those de- 
stroyed. Here, before this building, Charles I. 
was executed, for treason, by one party who sup- 
posed his life was a constant danger to freedom. 
By the other party he was revered as a martyr. 
The wretchedness of the government of 1649 is 
no more. We thank. God for that, and still peer 
into the future for better things. The pictured 
ceilings of Whitehall are the paintings of 
' ' Rubens. ' ' This hall is now in use for the pur- 
pose of storing and distributing charities. Joined 
with this in the angular curve are the ' ' Houses of 
Foreign Embassadors," standing in one row, 
built of light-colored stone, making a formida- 
ble appearance on the west. The Victoria Tower, 
the most elegant erection of the city, stands near, 
75 feet square, by 346 feet high. Wending our 
way back along the river, we beheld Cleopatra's 
needle and obelisk similar to the one in Central 
Park, presented by the same authorities. We 
went np the famous ''Drury Lane" to High 
Holborn, and ate our lunch with great relish, 
and rested for the afternoon tour. But we 
must not forget the old landmarks. We viewed 
Wesleyan Chapel in the city road, where John 
Wesley lies buried. The place of AVhitefield 's 
Chapel is in Tottenham Court Yard. Mrs. 
Whitefield and Bacon, the sculptor, are buried 



EUROPE. 43 

there, and wait with Whitefield and Wesley the 
glad morn of eternal Avaking. 

''And so I pray, that on that day" 
I may see his sweet face, 
And hear him say : 
How did yon rest last night ? ' ' 

The British Museum in Great Rnssell street, is 
a colossal structure of Grecian Ionic architecture 
with massive columned front of 570 feet. The 
columns are five feet in diameter at the foot, and 
run up to a height of forty-five feet. For a 
building 96 years old it is solid, firm, and a 
worthy piece of architecture. It contains a 
library second only to the imperial library of 
France, full of solid history and facts. It con- 
tains more American books than any library of 
our own country. Manuscripts of Greek, Roman 
and Assyrian writings abound. Appropriately, 
at the entrance of the library, the well carved 
bust of Shakespeare stands. Entering, you find 
a mass of valuable relics, ' ' Latin Manuscripts, ' ' 
' ' Hours with the Living Virgin, ' ' etc. The sec- 
ond room contains valued ancient autographs, 
papers, gospels in Anglo-Saxon English, charts 
and music. 

Here I found the original manuscript of one of 
the star productions in music, George F. Han- 
del's ''As Pants the Hart"; W. A. Mozart's 
original score of 130 psalms, arranged for four 



44 EUROPE. 

voices; the original handwriting of Ludwig 
Beethoven's ''Adelaide"; Felix Mendelssohn's 
' ' 13th Psalm ' ' for mezzo soprano, with organ ac- 
companiment ; a sketch of ' ' The People 's Chorus, ' ' 
by Wagner, melody and bass. Here lies David 
Garrick's letter of commendation to Gibbon's 
''Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire." 
Among other things, he said: "It was most 
admirable, such depth, such perspicuity, such 
language, force, variety and what nots. " By 
its side lay Robert Browning's letter to William 
G. Kingsland, thanking him for his sympathy, in 
that his writing had been too deep for the pub- 
lic; and that he showed such humbleness, tears 
and knowledge of self. Here is Wycliffe's earli- 
est English Bible, the original letter of Milton 
agreeing with his printer to edit "Paradise 
Lost," dated April 27, 1667; the Alexandrian 
Codex of the Bible, written in the fifth century ; 
Greek manuscripts; specimens of all kinds of 
early printing ; the Bible bound in beautiful blue 
velvet decked with the arms of Queen Elizabeth, 
and dated 1550, embossed ; the Alps in wax, etc. 
In another corridor are stones from Ephesus 
Theatre, bearing a written request of C. Vibius 
to the town of Ephesus in the year 104 ; a whole 
end of the theatre wall, 16x18 feet stands here. 
A bust of Sophocles, 406 B. C, Demosthenes, 
322 B.C., and sculptured reliefs of Amaravotin, 



EUROPE. 45 

Stand in this hall. Here against the wall stands 
the famously made clock of the world, of singular 
skill in workmanship and material, by Isaac 
Habreeht. Relics of arrow points, rings, brace- 
lets and anklets by the millions, stones of all 
kinds, from everywhere, bones of the ancient 
cave dwellers, implements of war, celts, spears 
helmets by the hundreds, from France and the 
deep bottom of the English river, are encased 
here. 

The variety and select salons of Chinese and 
Japanese pottery are quite sufficient to please 
any American woman. 

Among the curiosities of all the different arms, 
and dress, of every clime and land, I was espec- 
ially interested in the graceful and skilfully 
wrought out boats called ''dug outs," which had 
deer horn locks and speedy oars. The dog sledge 
of exquisite lightness, the old New Zealand fish 
hooks, made of natural bends of wood, and point- 
ed spurs and claws of birds, are exhaustless in 
number and oddity. Here is a picture of the 
''Primeval Indian War Dance" to invoke the 
aid and protection of the bear spirit, which as- 
sumes the attitude of reverence rather than of 
wild merriment or passion. 

Farther on we found a colossal fist of a giant 
statue from the temple of Ptah, Memphis. It 
is fingerless, about three feet in diameter and 



46 EUROPE. 

four feet long. The statue of Rameses II, 
or Pharaoh of Thebes, is gigantic. It measures 
seven feet across the shoulders, and is dated 1330 
B. C. Oh, what wondrous labor, how marvelous 
the skill, how grand the conceptions of the early 
Egyptians. Their day star, though early, was 
large and bright. 

'The curious ''Winged Figure" and "Human 
Headed Bull" stands in the hall belonging to the 
Assyrian King of 721-705 B. C. This is ten feet 
high, three feet broad and fifteen feet long. 
Here you find rich displays of Greek and Roman 
sculpture of very fine workmanship, but ancient 
and broken. 

One evening I noted the pictures on the wall 
of our reading room in 1st Avenue Hotel, of 
''Lady Ann Gray," "Mary Stuart resigning her 
claim," and also of the same sweet-faced lady 
bidding farewell to her servants, and the sight is 
one of royal pathos mingled with purest ser- 
vantile grief and sorrow of heart. I will never 
forget the study of the last named picture. It 
illustrates how the highest dignity of a lady can 
have the adoration of her least and willing ser- 
vant. Lady Ann Gray is pictured on another 
wall of the room reading Homer, and I guessed 
this passage from the "Odyssey," by Bryant:— 



EUROPE. 47 

' ' She spake, and lie was moved to tears ; lie wept 
As in his arms he held his dearly loved 
And faithful wife. As welcome as the land 
To those who swim the deep, of whose stout 

bark 
Neptune has made a wreck amidst the waves. 
Tossed by the billows and the blast, and few 
Are those who from the hoary ocean reach 
The shore, their limbs all crested with the brine. 
These gladly climbed the sea-beach, and are 

safe. 
So welcome was her husband to her eyes. 
Nor would her fair, white arms release his neck, 
And there would rosy-fingered Morn have 

found 
Both weeping, but the blue-eyed Pallas planned 
That thus it should not be ; she stayed the night 
When near its close, and held the golden Morn 
Long in the ocean depths, nor suffered her 
To yoke her steeds that bring the light to 

men, — 
Lampas and Phaethon, swift steeds that bear 
The morning on her way." 

These four pictures are framed in cardinal 
velvet, painted on rugged canvas with cream 
back ground, each one covering a space five by 
six feet. 

The Toiver is one of the most historical and 
stirring scenes of London. It may be consid- 
ered as a royal palace, or as ultimately used 
as a state's prison.' The honor of being king 
without this fortress was early considered but 



48 EUROPE. 

an empty title. Thank heaven for progress! 
There is no need of the tower now. "Though 
the mills of God grind slowly, yet they grind 
exceeding small," even in England. Tyranny 
and bloodshed have been exceeding rife within 
these walls. We passed over the very grounds 
where the two sons of Edward IV, Lady Jane 
Gray, Anne Boleyn and Sir Walter Raleigh were 
executed, and many, many others we may not 
mention. One's blood runs cold knowing the 
history, and standing with their feet upon the 
very place of such cruelty. We glanced at the 
long ago abandoned rack, collar and thumb-screw 
and sword of execution of 1657. 

As we journeyed on through another hall, the 
smoky figures of Gin and Beer, said to have 
stood over the pantry of the king's palace at 
Greenwich, attracted our attention, and they 
are said to be suggestive of the old kings' meat 
and drink. We saw Queen Elizabeth as she 
appeared going to St. Paul's Temple to return 
thanks after the destruction of the ''Spanish 
Armada," 1588. General Wolfe's cloak which 
he wore at Quebec, Sept. 13, 1759, is here and 
well preserved. It is of solid brown cloth, which 
we were allowed reverently to touch. I '11 never 
forget the poem he quoted as, all night before the 
fatal day he and his men hunted for the path 



EUROPE. 



49 



leading to his grave on "Abraham's Heights," 
but to a great triumph of right:— 

' ' The boast of heraldry, the pomp of power. 
All that beauty, all that wealth e'er gave, 
Await alike the inevitable hour, 
The paths of glory lead but to the grave. ' ' 

Here we find the uniform of the Duke of Wel- 
lington, bold and decisive, like the man; horse- 
men 's armors, dated from 1400 on, some of them 
weighing eighty pounds for the horse and sixty 
pounds for the rider. 

The Crown Jewels Tower is very remarkable, 
containing over 2,700 diamonds, which weigh 
thirty-nine ounces and five penny-weights. Here 
are crowns and coronets without number. ' ' The 
Traitor's Gate," a massive structure, which 
Anne Boleyn, Sir Thomas Moore and many 
others were shut in for days, would be of interest 
if we could spend a day in picturing the stone 
dungeon opening to the harbor. But such 
dreary places we must not mention. We need a 
ray of sunshine instead of cruel persecutions, in 
our day of God-given gifts, of liberty and light. 
So we turn to the carvings of the prisoners on 
their cells while they wait for execution, and 
they speak of penitence, prayer and piety. 

The Tower was founded by William the Con- 
queror, for the purpose of protecting and con- 
trolling the city. It covers with its bastions. 



50 EUROPE. 

fortifications and garden rails, eighteen acres, 
and contains material for study through a thou- 
sand centuries. 

Madam Tussaud's Waxivorh Exhibition is as 
much finer than ''Eden Musee" as New York 
City is finer than London. It has a history de- 
vout, profound and philanthropic. Over ninety 
years of constant prosperity by those who visit it 
speaks best of its popularity. The talent of the 
Tussaud family has for years modeled figures 
with a skill that has made them eminent as art- 
ists. At present, Mr. J. W. Tussaud and the 
son of Mr. J., and great-grandson of the found- 
ress, devote themselves to the work of the exhibi- 
tion, reflecting great credit to their ancestral 
mother, its founder. You find about 400 master- 
pieces of the great, the noble, the famous of 
every trade and profession and genius under the 
sun. It represents a world of people with whom 
one could associate for years, consulting history 
and with the association, tower upward with 
rapid strides. 

' ' I would not in the valley stay ; 
The great horizons stretch away ; 
* The very cliffs that wall me round 
Are ladders unto higher ground." 

The National Gallery contains a subject for 
word painting, delicate, intricate and skilled, 
for volumes of most delightful revelry and in- 



EUROPE. 51 

struction. Here I loved to linger and imagine 
how the masters of these halls of fine portraits, 
must now be praising God for the matchless 
skill which they had exercised while in a world 
of critics, competitors, griefs and toils, early and 
late faults. Now the world is at their feet, and 
an inspiration mth a mighty aspiration seizes 
me, to be a hero in life's battle. 

''Then welcome each rebuff 
That turns earth's smoothness rough, 
Each sting that bids, nor sit, nor stand, but go ! 
Be our joys three parts pain. 
Strive, and hold cheap the strain ; 
Learn nor account the pang; dare never grudge 
the throe!" 

St. Paul's Church, the creation of Sir Chris- 
topher Wren 's gigantic genius, meets the observ- 
er 's view and fires his brain again with the power 
of the human mind to conceive and produce its 
great plan. This was produced in 35 years of 
continuous labor, finished in the year 1710. The 
top of the dome is 404 feet high. The cathedral 
contains the sepulchres of Wellington and Nel- 
son. This was the place of the crowded funeral 
of Bishop Creighton, which I attended, with a 
million of others. I could not hear nor see for 
the concourse of people coming and going, 
crowding in for a last word and view of a man 
who had been as much of a master in his work as 
the architect of St. Paul 's was at his. 



52 EUROPE. 

The Temple of Joseph Parker was on our way 
homeward and we entered to find this celebrated 
man speaking of the Bishop. He said : "I am re- 
minded that I have been the pastor of this Tem- 
ple thirty years, and I have met in Bishop 
Creighton a most genial friend and Catholic 
man. ***** Hqw shall his place be filled? 
is the question to-day, the old question. But 
these great crises in life make the trifles vanish 
before us. * * * But Christ is the leader of his 
church. We should waste no time trying to 
church people. The matchless thing is to save 
people. Young men from all over the world will 
catch his spirit ; and his work will be passed on, 
and up, till the Gates of Daybreak. Young men, 
the spiritual is the real. It is over all. Get it ! 
Cling to it ! Keep it ! And give it always and 
everywhere until doom's day brightens into 
glory eternal." 

I could not pack this letter to my people and 
friends full enough. I must continue in the 
next chapter. "Bon jour." 



Westminster Abbey, 




NORTH TRANSEPT OF WESTMINSTER 

SHOWING Gladstone's tomb 



EUROPE. 55 



CHAPTER IV. 



WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 



This structure contains a large and condensed 
history in itself. It is of this, the largest city 
in the world, we read of most. It is this, of 
London, we love the most. To all it is sacred, 
historic, artistic, grand ; it is comprehensive, seri- 
ous, soothing, simple. We are really in the sanc- 
tuary and we feel its power. 

The fact strikes us with shocking force when 
we read : That over six centuries and a half have 
rolled their setting suns behind us, since the 
clustering shafts, and pointed arches of West- 
minster were piously raised by Henry the III. 
He was not a standard of piety, but he fostered 
it. Rude has been the treatment of this great 
piece of work for the last three hundred years, 
yet the spires point high into heaven still, and 
■'their grace and lightness, grandeur and 
strength is undiminished." This is not its 
earliest history. Mist and myth lie about its 
foundation. We cannot arrive definitely at the 
history of its beginning. Neal's, Bradley's and 
Dean Stanley's writings are the- most complete 
and interesting for a special study of this sub- 
ject. The reputed founder of this Abbey was 



56 EUROPE. 

Sebert, King of the Essex, 616 A. D. But we 
are safe when we say Edward the Confessor was 
the real founder of this gem of places. 

Edward was in exile in Normandy and made 
a vow to go on a pilgrimage to Rome if he was 
restored to his kingdom. But he was excused 
from this unopportune journey if he would build 
this cathedral, in the year 1050. This is the first 
church in England built in the shape of a cross. 
The only parts now remaining of the original 
are the chambers of the Pix and circular arches 
of the dark cloisters. William the Conqueror 
was Edward's successor, and he was crowned in 
the Abbey. All of the sovereigns of England 
since, have been crowned here. Henry the 
Third pulled down the old building and erected 
to his honor and the world's benefit the present 
one in 1220. He is buried here and nearly all 
of the sovereigns have had this as their body's 
last resting place. The building was not com- 
pleted until 1735, by Christopher Wren. 

At the dissolution of the monasteries in 1539, 
Westminster, became a Cathedral church and the 
abbot was made dean. In 1556, Queen Mary 
made John Feckenham abbot. But this change 
only lasted two years, and Westminster has re- 
mained from that date, 1558, a collegiate church 
with deans. (Deans are not priests, but church 
dignitaries. ) 



EUROPE. 57 

We entered the Cathedral by Solomon 's Porch. 
At the approach we were not awed, since yon 
cannot realize its greatness or beanty with the 
immense Parliament bnildings dazzling yonr 
eyes. Bnt when once you enter in, this so far 
surpasses the outside, that at once all of your 
anticipations are more than satisfied, and you 
begin a happy search which would take years to 
assimilate. When the mother of the two smoth- 
ered sons of Edward the Fourth, withheld her 
son in infancy, Shakespeare made Buckingham 
argue thus: — 

' ' You break no sanctuary in seizing him, 
The benefit thereof is always granted 
To those whose dealings have deserved the 

place ; 
And those who have the wit to claim the place ; 
This prince has neither claimed it nor de- 
served it. 
Therefore, in my opinion, cannot have it. ' ' 

So whether we are worthy of the place or not, 
we will enter the interior for a brief, general 
survey. The sculptures are so numerous, unclas- 
sified, and disorderly, by time 's long production, 
that really the multiplied objects "bewilder the 
head and make it ache," as Irving said. One's 
visit is a dream, not a reality. But, oh, that 
happy dream ! Would it might be yours ! Here 
we have every style of architecture for the last 
600 years represented, from the chapel of Pix 



58 EUROPE. 

to the choir of recent structure. The organ was 
made by Schrieder 1730, and was restored by 
Hill 1884. It has sixty-eight stops and in every 
way is said to be as good as any in England. 

As we enter the courts we see "St. Peter," 
''Christ" in majesty, ''The Twelve Apostles," 
' ' Procession of the Faithful, " " The Virgin hold- 
ing Christ Crowned." We pass on through the 
chancel, finding beautiful sculpture on either 
side. We enter the chapel of St. Faith and we 
see the room once used for vestments and robes 
filled with chairs and kneeling cushions for pri- 
vate prayer. We could but kneel and offer a 
single prayer for our people and friends. We 
thanked God for all we had, and all of their 
beautiful ministry to us. Passing the transepts 
and aisles, we noted much that would be of inter- 
est, in the sculptured persons presented. But 
still we must for this book hold our pen. But it 
contains the shrines and ashes of some, and 
many of England's illustrious dead. Poets — 
Chaucer, Shakespeare, Spencer, Drayton, Rare 
Ben Jonson, Gray, Gay, Dryden, Howe, Addi- 
son, Cowley, Mason and Southey. Some of these 
are not so eminent as honorary. The grave stones 
over David Garrick," Macpherson and Samuel 
Johnson appear stately with their inscriptions. 
But where I paused most was at the tombs of 
Tennyson and Browning, lying like twin broth- 



EUROPE. 59 

ers, side by side. The argument of their com- 
bined and contrasted greatness began at once. 
I thanked the Priest of men for snch worthy 
humanity and I stepped aside. I could not 
trample on the capstone of their sealed ashes. 
Their virtues, characteristics and literary, are 
transcribed on present, and will be on all future 
generations. Dummies of saints and friends of 
PUngiish prose lie here in profusion, as well as 
enshrined in the hearts of men. 

The Chapter House, which for three hundred 
years was the ''House of Commons," has relics, 
documents and mementoes dear indeed to- all 
Englishmen and thus interesting to her children, 
broadcast as we are, o'er all the earth. This 
body of Commoners no longer assembles here, 
but in more spacious apartments in the buildings 
of Parliament. 

The chapels and tombs were shown to us by 
one of the deans of the Abbey for the small sum 
of a sixpence. Perhaps the chapel of Henry the 
VII. is as interesting as any of the multitude 
through which we were conducted. Its form is 
excellent, and its delicate tracery overspreading 
every part is not equaled here, if anywhere. 
The metal screen around the tomb of Henry VII. 
and his Queen is of the finest design and work- 
manship. All around these mortuary chapels 
are most interesting monuments. Edward the 



60 EUROPE. 

Confessor, Henry III., Edward I., and Queen 
Eleanor, Mary Queen of Scots, Queen Elizabeth, 
Queen Ann, George II., Queen Caroline, and a 
multitude of others lie here. Among the states- 
men I remember Chatham, Pitt, Fox, Canning, 
Peel and Palmerston. The latter plead that he 
might be buried in his own quiet village, but that 
they might do him honor his wish was not grant- 
ed ; and afterward his excellent wife was buried 
by his side. All honor to her, to the feminine 
order of her sisterhood, and to the authorities 
who placed her there. Nelson, on the eve of one 
of his great victories, was heard to say : ' ' A 
peerage or Westminster Abbey?" This repre- 
sents what honor being buried here conferred. 

In this immortalized shrine we find the old 
Coronation chair, plain indeed, but the more 
plain many things in this world are, the more 
real glory clusters around them. Underneath 
the seat of this remarkable piece of furniture is 
the "Scone," on which all of the kings of Scot- 
land from time immemorial had been crowned up 
to the period of Edward I. To-day this chair 
is used in the crowning of the kings and queens 
of England. Here Edward the VII will receive 
the dignities of his high ofSce, conferred in state ; 
and step forth, as we all hope, to honor the care- 
ful, generous rule of his mother, who holds all 
our hearts high in admiration. This chair is 



EUROPE. 61 

wooden, unstained, unpainted, with hard bottom 
and large arms. Glancing at the large column, 
carved with allegorical figures, we will say "au 
revoir" to the church of churches, house of his- 
tory, and place made divine by the sacred shrines 
of martyrs. This column mentioned is sacred 
to those who fell in the bloody Crimean war and 
to the memory of all those who survived the 
awful carnage. We are reminded as we leave 
this place of the historic dead, of Gray's poem, 
''Elegy Written in a Country Churchyard." 
Also we quote a part of the late poem to Queen 
Victoria, by Austin. 

''Dead and the world feels widowed! 

Can it be 
That she who scarce but yesterday upheld 

The dome of Empire, so the twain seemed one. 

Whose goodness shone and radiated round 
The circle of her still expanding Rule, 
Whose Scepter was self-sacrifice, whose Throne 
Only a loftier height from which to scan 

The purpose of her People, their desires, 
Thoughts, hopes, fears, needs, joys, sorrows, 

sadness. 
Their strength in weal, their comfort in woe, 

That this her mental habitation should 
Lie cold and tenantless. Alas ! Alas ! 

Too often life has been taught by Death 
The meaning and the pricelessness of Love, 

Not understood till lost. But she, but she 
Was loved as Monarch ne 'er was loved before 
From girlhood unto womanhood." 



Land of Napoleon, Joan of Arc 
and Voltaire. 



EUROPE. 65 

CHAPTER V. 

LAND OF NAPOLEON^ JOAN OF ARC AND VOLTAIRE. 

General Description of the City— Paris on 
Parade— Monuments— Place de la Repuhlique 
—The Louvre— Versailles History— Notre Dame 
—Personal. 

PARIS is a city of growth, and has reached 
a population numbering nearly if not quite 
2,500,000. As you come into Paris from 
London you seem to lose the majestic trait of 
austerity and form. They vanish. You feel that 
geniality and freedom of spirit abound. You are 
sure also that you have lost solidity, trustfulness, 
real culture. The buildings are higher, lighter, 
more roomy and artistic in their grace. The 
streets and avenues are broader and cleaner. 
With the youth of the city we might expect this. 
The people, like the atmosphere in which they 
live, are gay, bright and airy in look, but not so 
regular or profound in feature or demeanor as 
the English. You do not trust the people of 
Paris. They are too unsteady-eyed and featured 
to be stolid. You like them, but look out for 
being "hung up" by their unscrupulous nerve. 
The journey from London to Dover was rap- 
turous in its effect. It seemed like beautiful 



66 EUROPE. 

October weather in New York. The fields were 
green, and there had been no frost the twentieth 
of January. The cabbage, beets and turnips 
were growing all along the railway. You view 
the soilers tilling their lands thoroughly. And 
through the part of England which I passed, 
every farm, its tools, its haystacks, cattle, sheep, 
barns and homes were models of thoroughness, 
and you seemed to catch the spirit, ''It pays to 
do everything thoroughly and well." 

From Dover to Calais the ocean was rolling; 
the boat was small and dirty— ''The Crawford." 
The craft being heavily loaded with passengers 
and freight, there was much throwing overboard, 
and yet, when we landed, all of the number of its 
passengers, and every piece of luggage appeared. 
But almost every face was ashen-hued, and the 
boat was horribly strewn with wrecked vegeta- 
bles, meats and drinks. I did not feel sick, but 
I did want for social friends, and more fragrant 
air. 

Riding through a fine section of France from 
Calais on the "Rothschild Railway," we landed 
at Paris at 7 :30 in the evening. I found a cab- 
man and directed him to the "Hotel de Wind- 
sor. ' ' Before he shut the door, he put up three 
fingers and said : ' ' Three francs ; three francs ! ' ' 
I shook my head and said, "No." I stepped 
out, he handed me my bundle gruffly, and getting 



EUROPE. 6 'J' 

into another cab, I offered the fellow two francs, 
and found a pleasant house at the Windsor, 
shortly. These Paris fellows watch for the 
American ''gold standard." By rights I only 
needed to pay one and three-fourths francs for 
the cab. 

After a good night's rest, I awoke with the 
sun streaming into my window as warm as May. 
Breakfasting, I attempted to find a Protestant 
church, but my time was too limited. I entered 
the great church called the ' ' Madeleine, ' ' saw its 
grandeur, its stolid statuary, rather than grace- 
ful, heard the short Latin discourse and its 
attendant songs. 

Gay Paris was on Sunday parade. ''Champs 
Elysees" w^as filled with emotional, pleasure- 
seeking, health-restoring individuals, of all 
classes and sizes, nurses and nursers, lawyers 
and priests, the bootless and the well booted, 
women of all classes. 

Champs Elysees is a beautiful promenade 
fenced in with walls and iron spears gilded at 
the top in royalty. It is nearly one mile in 
length and joins or leads to the noted "Louvre." 
It has a width of one-half mile and is set out to 
elm trees, statuary and monuments. The res- 
taurants and stands were all open selling their 
wares, and they "catch you unawares." A 
hard, dirt floor, paved with gravel and sand, 



68 EUROPE. 

makes walking a pleasure during the winter 
months. It is a fine field for sports, and the 
children play there Sundays, and nurses and 
fathers and mothers with them. You find here 
every sort of dress but full dress, from royal 
Paris ''dames" down. And from the finely, 
richly attired millionaire swells, up and down 
among the ' ' hommes ' ' to all heights and depths, 
here they cut a Sunday figure. Football, base- 
ball, croquet, pool, marbles, mud pies, sand 
mills, tennis, etc., are all quietly carried on, re- 
gardless of God's divine, or civil law. Enough 
nurses and babies come and go and stay, to pop- 
ulate a fair-sized city. This is Paris' "Elysian 
Field, ' ' and in summer the place of all pleasure 
seekers. 

This park contains "the Arc de Triomphe," 
designed by Chalgrin for Napoleon I. 1806. It 
is 160 feet high, 146 feet broad, 72 feet deep, and 
cost when completed by Louis Philippe, 1836, 
£ 400,000. Among the things most lovely in 
this park, is the monument of Lafayette in- 
scribed so plainly, with these words— you feel 
you have seen your friends:— 



EUROPE. 69 

''This Tablet is a Tribute 

of the 

National Society of the Daughters of the 

American Republic, 

To the Illustrious Memory of 

Lafayette, 

The Friend of America, the Fellow Soldier of 

Washington, the Patriot of Two Countries. ' ' 

And this verse follows:— 

^'When freedom's feet were in the wilds, 
He thrust his sword between her and her 
foes." 

This monument is of fine, brown granite, lofty, 
and beautifully enlawned by circle and hedge. 

There are two monuments to the philosopher 
of the Revolution, and the yet remaining influ- 
ence of the infidelity of France. I speak of Vol- 
taire, whose monument of stone, and statue of 
bronze stand on the south bank of the Seine near 
the Institute of France. Also the other monu- 
ment, honored by a place at the back of the Ecole 
Polytechnique. It seems as if it were a fact that 
this hard, cynical face of strong antagonism to 
God and truth has some portraiture in the late 
refusal of 153 men of the Paris legislature to be 
prayed for in the guidance of matters of state. 
What of state, when its rulers even refuse to ask 
for themselves, or permit others to ask for them 
Supreme guidance? 

The pretentious statue of "Joan of Arc" 



70 EUROPE. 

stands in Rue Royal. The all faithful and fear- 
less maid of France, in her dash and clever dex- 
terity, is represented bestriding her horse, bare- 
headed and carrying the conquerors' flag in her 
right hand. No painted, powdered face is hers. 
No stilt-heeled shoes cling to these feet. No 
tresses false, or perfumes rare, mingle here. 
But pure, glorious womanhood, God^s heart 
workmanship stands out to glorify France and 
all the earth. Not beauty, nor muscle, but un- 
fainting, pure, faithful womanhood conquers 
yet. 

The Place de la Republique I visited on one 
of the days when the flower market was at its 
best. The sale of flowers by women under a 
shed roof, extends throughout a distance of two 
hundred feet. And the sight and fragrance 
affords a doubly precious delight. The two 
fountains adorning the place are very unique. 
But the monument undertaken by a young sculp- 
tor, Maurice, whose design gained the first prize 
in an open contest, arrested me. It is a colossal 
figure in bronze, crowned with laurel, standing 
on a circular pedestal with a square base. In 
front is a great bronze lion, with an electrical 
urn beside it. The base is decorated with re- 
liefs representing twelve scenes in French his- 
tory. 

The Louvre, with its palaces, halls of statuary 



EUROPE. 71 

and of painting, are clever indeed. There is a 
lack of order, and something of monotony of 
arrangement, in contrast with the Museum of 
London and the National Gallery of Art. The 
statuary I did not seem to care for. But some 
of the pictures I quite admired, and lingered m 
their study. "Paris and Helen," "John the 
Baptist," by Greuze; "Louise," by Tocque; 
' ' Troy, " " At the Battle of Arbelles, " " Charles 
at the Passage of Giamique, " "Calliope Play- 
ing the Harp"; "Judgment," by Cousin; "The 
Triumph of David, ' ' by Rubens ; " The Deluge, ' ' 
Tissot; "Le Triumphe de la Verite," or "The 
Triumph of the Truth." 

The Bourse or Exchange building is a mam- 
moth Corinthian columned building, rectangular 
in form, 212 feet long and 126 feet wide. At 
each corner are elegant figures seated, which 
represent Justice, Commerce, Agriculture and 
Industry. I entered when the business was just 
completed. As nearly as I could judge the busi- 
ness here is much like that of Wall street. New 
York. Their floor is spacious, the gallery is fine 
and roomy. 

The "Houses of Parliament" and "Justice" 
are worthy of considerable space in describing, 
but we mention their beauty of design, architect- 
ural strength and general utility, moving on over 
many worthy details of these buildings. 



72 EUROPE. 

I attended the Grand Opera of Paris one even- 
ing. We were then with what they call "the 
smart set" of Paris. The music was rich, cul- 
tured and refined. The acting gentle and mod- 
est. The actors seemed fine in character, and in 
the moral of their teaching. But the ballet 
dancing was nude indeed. I became less proud 
of my company when I saw it was neither art, 
nor grace, nor accomplishment, but nudeness 
(only screened by the- thinness of very transpar- 
ent lace), they applauded most. Then I lost my 
confidence in the maids of full dress in latest 
grotesque style, adorned with diamonds, emer- 
alds and royal gold. And the escorts which 
attended them, resorting to partake of wine re- 
freshments during the interludes, though clad in 
royalty and silk, were not companions celestial. 
And yet, this is the so-called gentility, broad cul- 
ture, and intelligence of Paris. This was the 
grandest opera of the season, and this the grand- 
est opera house of the world. May they and all 
the world love something higher, grander, more 
noble and better, and seek it at once at any cost. 

Versailles is now a large town of 40,000 people. 
It was in the time of Louis XIII. the hunting 
ground of his royalty and in the time of Louis 
XIX. a village where he built recruiting 
grounds for his soldiers. By his genius, rivers 
were turned from their courses, and their waters 



EUROPE. 73 

conducted to fountains, lakes and bath pools. 
The dense forest was changed into a gravel- 
paved parade ground, roomy, shady, grand and 
grotesque. All of this was the hard work of his 
army. The stone grew into massive parliament 
buildings, the place of their sitting for years. 
Marble grew into the grace and features of war- 
riors, poets and rulers of huge and medium size ; 
and these were almost countless in number; 
until parades covering acres of ground and 
miles in length have become one grand art gal- 
lery of the hand of God, by the holding of skilled 
men in his fingers. 

The circumference of this park is nearly fifty 
miles. It contains an orangery of 1200 trees. 
It has the Trianon and apartments which were 
formerly used by Madam Maintenon, Louis XY, 
and Napoleon I. as council rooms. The gardens 
are laid out in English style with a river and 
lakes. Here twelve miles from the Louvre of 
Paris is a park whose freedom, beauty, grace and 
art is a fountain of youth, health and intelli- 
gence. They tell me it is the lovers' pillowed 
throne. Even at this season the grass is green, 
the trees and shrubbery are leaved and the iron 
settees are inviting. It is a parlor of nature and 
art combined, to draw us upward into His con- 
scious presence who always waits anxiously our 
brooding hearts. 



74 EUROPE. 

Notre Dame is built on the site of an old pagan 
temple. The cathedral was founded in 1163 and 
has been frequently altered, until it represents 
the crucifix since 1845. The west front has two 
square towers, massive and strong, divided into 
three vertical sections, each of which have Gothic 
portals, profusely carved. The carvings in the 
center represent the ' ' Last Judgment. ' ' In the 
center of the second story is a fine rose window, 
42 feet in diameter. This window is of its kind 
the grandest and most antique in the world. 
The north and south sides contain beautiful rose 
windows also, but more modern and less elabor- 
ate than the former. The building seats 20,000 
people; has five naves, instead of three. The 
vaulting of the nave is one hundred and ten feet 
high, and is supported by seventy-five pillars, 
many of which are circular and fluted. The 
choir chapels are rich in monuments and carv- 
ings of the Archbishops of Paris. The great 
''bourdo" of Notre Dame, mentioned by Victor 
Hugo, is one of the largest in Europe and weighs 
sixteen tons. The clapper alone weighs ten 
hundred pounds. 

During the first revolution, Notre Dame was 
condemned, but only the sculptures were demol- 
ished. It was then converted into a ''Temple of 
Treason," but Napoleon I. changed it to its 
original purpose in 1802. In the awful com- 



EUROPE. 75 

mune of 1871 it was a military depot. After, an 
attempt was made to burn it, but without suc- 
cess. The chambers contain robes, crowns and 
jewels without number, and if my guide told me 
the truth, the most of these have a far fetched, 
mythical history of wonder. It has a grace and 
majesty which Westminster lacks. But in sac- 
redness, monuments, tombs, history and gracious 
memories, it cannot compare. 

We must turn our eyes from Paris, and we 
say "au revoir." 

This letter is written from Heidelberg, Ger- 
many. Here I am resting in good health. I 
heard a good sermon in German yesterday, with- 
out notes, ''On the Death of Queen Victoria." 
' ' Simon, Son of Jonas, lovest thou me more than 
these?" was the text. 

' ' 'Tis heaven alone that is given away ; 
'Tis only God may be had for the asking. " 

"Eevolutions never turn backward." 



A Touch of Belgium and Germany, 



EUROPE. 79 

CHAPTER VI. 

A TOUCH OF BELGIUM AND GERMANY. 

Brussels in General — Its Industry — Some 
Things About Toiun—View of ^'Waterloo''— 
Cologne — Description — Magnificent Cathedral — 
The Morning Chimes. 

BRUSSELS is a modern city. It is well paved, 
kept neat and clean. It is said to be ' ' Paris 
in miniatnre. " It is rapidly building and 
contains to-day about 500,000 people. This city 
has a well laid out boulevard, with trees, a track 
for horseback riding, a magnificent drive, fine 
sporting grounds, and walks for strollers and 
lovers. This boulevard is about 100 feet wide, 
containing four and six rows of trees, fountains, 
statues, public buildings and galleries around the 
circle. The boulevard extends nearly around 
the city. In this it excels Paris. This city and 
its neighboring hamlet has a history not to be 
told here. Books can not portray the battle of 
Waterloo with its colossal results. 

This city grew around a small church built by 
St. Grey, one of the first apostles of Christianity 
in this section. Charles of France made it his 
residence in the year 980. It increased in size, 
tone and thrift rapidly. A fine panoramic view 



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is obtained from Colonne du Congres in the St. 
Royal. This building commands a broad out- 
look and was built to commemorate the declara- 
tion of Belgium Independence, and the election 
of Leopold I. as king. 

Its industry is lace making, and it holds a 
charm in its history which we may enjoy briefly. 
Lace making is said to be the crowning of all 
handicrafts, as lace is the queen among all adorn- 
ments of wearing apparel. Needle work and 
embroidery were greatly esteemed by the ancient 
Jews and Egyptians. The uncivilized northern 
nations engaged themselves with this handiwork. 
The king's daughters by no means disdained, 
but were ardent lovers of the enterprise. In 
feudal days knights sent their daughters to the 
suzerain courts to learn needlework of the high 
born. Queen Elizabeth, Mary Stuart, Queen 
Margaret and others excelled in this line of work. 
Lace began to be worn in the 15th century. 
Many kinds now exist, but Valenciennes, Chan- 
tilly and a few others have become specialties in 
Brussels. Belgium provides lace for the entire 
universe and all great foreign lace merchants de- 
pend on Belgium, of which Brussels is the chief 
lace manufacturing city, for their supplies in 
this precious article. ''Brussels point," the 
finest lace, is made in this city. There is a beau- 
tiful love story of a princess who loved a gallant 



EUROPE. 81 

prince and her father objected and was bound 
she should marry one of his own choice. This 
legend is attached to the discovery of lace. I 
must not tell it now. But the discovery of lace 
was by a royal princess, who watched a spider 
weave its web and imitated the little hero. How 
much we may learn from the most insignificant 
sources ! 

Some things about town are worth our men- 
tion, if we cannot enter into detail. 

One of the finest buildings in Brussels is one 
built of gray granite and entirely modern— the 
National Bank Building. 

The Colonne du Congres was erected to com- 
memorate the date of ''Independence," 1830-31. 
The view from the summit of this building, so 
gracefully and magnificently columned, is a com- 
manding panorama of the city. 

The church of ''S. St. Michael Gudule" is the 
largest and most beautiful one in Brussels. It 
is of fine Gothic architecture, and though begun 
in 1226 its construction was a struggle for cen- 
turies, and it seems to me a somewhat useless 
one. To impoverish everyone, and to hold the 
poor enslaved that magnificent temples may be 
builded, is perhaps the most devout cause for 
which a people may suffer, but I doubt if this 
may be just. 

The ''Bourse," or Stock Exchange, is an im- 



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posing edifice and vast in its proportions. And 
if I am any judge of such places the Belgians 
are wide awake in the business of stocks. The 
building is none too large. And the shrieks and 
tumult of the exchangers seemed to outdo the 
vastness of the great building. The crowd was 
indeed large and fierce for a six-foot minister, 
since his ears could hear the whole din of battle 
without a muffle. 

Just across the street and we find Grrand Place, 
one of the finest medieval squares in Belgium. 
The guild houses are richly furnished with sculp- 
ture. "The Maison du Roi" is a gem, with its 
galleries, bell tower, turrets and statues of gilt. 
This is the house where Napoleon had his "Grand 
Ball" on the eve just before the battle of Water- 
loo. In his gayety he little knew his coming 
fate. Here also the famous "Hotel de Ville," 
one of the most famous and beautiful specimens 
of Gothic architecture in the worlds is located. 
Its facade and fine spire, ending in a gigantic 
figure of the arch-angel Michael, in gilt, is very 
imposing. Its halls are indescriptively rich, and 
it is an emblem of the old Flemish commons. 

If I could tell of this town's Halls of Justice, 
equal to those of much larger cities; its Sablon 
and church; its Houses of Parliament, massive 
and of most beautiful stone ; its Royal Art Gal- 
lery, Museum, Parks and groups of statues, you 



EUROPE. 83 

would think with me and wonder how this ever 
raised or supported such a large number of cost- 
ly buildings. 

The view of the ' ' Battle of Waterloo ' ' grounds 
was the first thing I wanted to put my 
eyes on when I reached Brussels. Early 
the first morning I put out for Braine L'AUeuh 
station, twenty-two miles out, and viewed 
with a guide this mysterious and wonder- 
fid battlefield. Upon Mt. Lion, in the center of 
the field, I could see that clear morning every 
point of the field, and some of the wrecks of that 
awful field of blood. General Gordon's monu- 
ment occupies a conspicuous place on a mound 
of the field. The enumeration of the forces here 
gathered, their movements, the heroic manner of 
combat, the characterizing resultant principles 
gained, leave space and opportunity for a book. 
I purchased an ash cane cut on this field of battle 
stamped with the words '' Souvenir of Water- 
loo, ' ' and some day, if I am called to, I can paint 
the battle. I saw it at a glance and brought an 
illustrated plan of it with me for future study. 
Coming back to the station, having a little time 
before the train arrived, I walked to the church 
used as a hospital in this battle, where many of 
the fainting soldiers were revived and fed. But 
this station, town, and its people, gave me some 
idea of country life in Belgium. Brussels is an 



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extra clean city. Its people are neat. But 
Braine L'Alleuli is very untidy. Coal dust, 
grease, tobacco, whiskey and human filth on 
the walks of the streets, and dirty, half-witted 
bandies, galavanting and treading the cobble- 
stone streets, with wooden shoes, too large and 
worn out, made me sorry the train was late for 
Brussels, and made me remember that all Bel- 
gium was not a paradise, like Brusssels. 

' 'Ah, what a warning for a thoughless man. 
Could field or grove or any spot of earth, 
Show to his eye an image of the pangs 
Which it hath witnessed, — render back an echo 
Of the sad steps by which it hath been trod. " 

''The course of nature is the art of God." 

COLOGNE. 

It was on Friday night, Feb. 28th, I reached 
this famous cathedral town, and well known 
German city, from its perfumed name ' ' German 
Cologne." Now my railroad travel is a happy 
part of my life. From Brussels to Cologne you 
go through tunnel after tunnel, along the moun- 
tains, and between are beautiful valleys, looking 
out on either side to great hills or mountains 
against the clear sky. Seeing the fat, well- 
groomed oxen, and well-fed horses, turn over the 
rich green sward on the steep hillsides, is a 
picture of real rustic nature which makes one 



EUROPE. 85 

worship God, who holdeth the mountains and 
hills as unconsciously in his hands as an unbur- 
dened boy does his toy top. 

Cologne was once a gallant Roman colony, 
from which circumstance it derived its name. 
Agrippina, daughter of Germanicus, and wife of 
the Emperor Claudius, was raised here. She 
built her temples, acqueducts, theatres. It was 
the capital of Romish Gaul until 330 A. D. Then 
through many scenes of costly war she passed 
into the hands of the Germans, 870 A. D. This was 
one of the powers of the "Hanseatic League," 
and it carried on a commerce with all the com- 
mercial peoples of the earth. She did not even 
allow English ships to carry merchandise on the 
Rhine past her city. The old ' ' Cologne Univer- 
sity" was then esteemed the highest of any in 
Germany. To-day, a little distance out of town, 
Cologne has a fine college. In the year 1794 the 
French took the town and held it for twenty 
years. Its buildings have seen much of the rav- 
ages of war, poverty and waste, but by skillful 
German hands it has been made a prosperous 
and fine city. 

The Cologne Cathedral is a work on the exter- 
ior of finest art. It is bolder, more graceful in 
design and accomplishment, more perfectly exe- 
cuted than any in Europe. The plan and airy 
grace of its minarets and turrets, in spite of its 



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bulk, impresses one with the thought of angelic 
sublimity and beauty. It is mighty, yet not 
massive. It is strong, yet abiding with airy grace 
and simplicity. It is of cunic form, has three 
naves. The main facade is formed by two tow- 
ers, one at the north and the other at the south 
end. The towers are four stories and reach a 
height of 156 metres. The post windows are 
44 feet broad and 128 feet in height. Five fig- 
ures of life size over the middle entrance repre- 
sent Christ and the four evangelists. The tym- 
panum contains ' ' The Passion ' ' in bas relief. 

The inner length of the Cathedral is 540 feet, 
the breadth is 376 feet, the height 244 feet. The 
most beautiful stained windows date from the 
16th century, and were a gift of great cost from 
the city of Cologne, through the influence of its 
archbishops. They represent grand scenes of 
art and books of history, in their designed model- 
ing. The inner furnishings are quite disap- 
pointing. Somewhat so, perhaps, in contrast 
with Westminster and Notre Dame. There is 
another large Catholic church within a short 
distance of the first, older, and not so artistic and 
neat. It seemed to me unnecessary. 

But there is one thing I never can forget about 
Cologne. Saturday morning I was awakened by 
the sweetest sounds I ever heard. I thought I 
must be dreaming of heaven 's chimes of melody. 



EUROPE. 87 

But no! I was myself. The music was real. 
Something was touching the tympanum of my 
ear with more sweetly mellowed sounds than 
ever before. It still glided on, carrying tones 
into tune too sweet for mortal ear scarcely to 
endure. And I said, I am near to God and next to 
heaven. And this text came running through 
my thought : ' ' And I, John, saw a new heaven 
and a new earth." You may hear from this 
text some day. How I wish that you may hear 
the chimes. 

Eau de Cologne manufacturers are known 
throughout the world. And this excellent per- 
fume, distilled from a great number of fragrant 
plants, was invented by an Italian ''Farina." 
' ' The Mary Clemantine Martin Nun cologne 
factory" has acquired a reputation throughout 
the world and has been crowned with first prizes 
at all great exhibitions ; and the American people 
have and do add their excelsior to its meritorious 
aroma. 

In Cologne, as well as in Brussels, they guide 
their two- wheeled carts by shafts, and dogs 
snatch the heavy loads through the streets as if it 
were their vocation. I did not know that dogs 
possessed so much strength, but they pull like 
oxen, and are much livelier. They breed the 
larger kinds here, muzzle them and tie them up 



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to the carts to draw heavy burdens. Shall I 
bring home a pair for the carriage ? 

''The little dogs and all, 
Tray, Blanche and Sweetheart, see, they all bark 
at me. ' ' 



Heidelberg. 



EUROPE. 91 

CHAPTER VII. 

HEIDELBERG. 

Arrival— Sunday's Rest— Nature's Tribute— 
Poem— Seat of the Reformation— The University 
—The Schloss—The Mountain. 

IF this valley in which the sage city lies is called 
the garden of Germany, then the city is a 
pearl with its stately castle. Arriving here 
at five 'clock Saturday evening, I ran up one of 
the principal streets until I had seen that old and 
famous, world-wide. University of Heidelberg. 
Then as it was growing dark, and the street was 
forced to bend with the high mountain on the 
bank of the Neckar, a tributary of the Rhine, 
and joining it at Manheim, a few miles below, 
was not so easy to trace for ' ' Innocents Abroad, ' ' 
I sought my roomy home at Grand Hotel. But 
I saw the faces of students, professors and citi- 
zens which bespoke an intelligence, thrift and de- 
termination, such as I had not seen in faces for 
some days. I had something to think of over 
night. In a sentence, it was this : Great schools 
of a town not only write some worthy marks of 
care on the faces of its people, but honor, gentil- 
ity, geniality and humaneness on the soul, be- 
neath the marks of labor. Sunday I rested, and 
it seemed a blessing indeed to me, for I was trav- 
eling by rail or foot almost constantly, and at no 



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meager pace, every week day. I attended Ger- 
man service in the morning, and was surprised 
that I could gather so much of the minister's 
sermon. He spoke on the death of ' ' Queen Vic- 
toria," and the text was ''Simon, son of Jonas, 
lovest thou me more than these?" He spoke 
directly, concisely, without a note, but his dis- 
course was full of holy truth. 

Nature has almost exhausted itself, and offers 
everything from the surrounding mountains, 
rich valley and classic river besides its beautiful 
landscape, to make Heidelberg glorious. This 
city has always been a favorite place for poets — 
Michael, Behaim, Scheffel and others. From the 
latter flows the following : — 

' ' Old Heidelberg, thou beauty 
With many honors crowned; 
Along the Rhine and Neckar 
No town like thine is found. 
When from the South is spreading 
Spring 's smile o 'er hill and lea, 
He out of blossoms weaveth 
A bridal robe for thee. 
Thee as a bride I fondly 
Enshrine within my heart; 
Like early love, sweet echoes 
Thy name doth joy impart. 
Become life 's cares to burning 
And all around looks bare, 
I'll spur my good horse homeward 
To thy Neckar vale so fair, ' ' 



EUROPE. 93 

This city claims 35,000 inhabitants and about 
1,600 students in college, from all over the world. 
This college is a " special ' ' in the departments of 
law and medicine. From the first to the third 
century, Heidelberg was a Roman settlement, 
this colony being taken by the Alemagnes in 
260. Again these were defeated in 496, and then 
this town and section belonged to the Frankish 
Empire. Frederic Barbarossa became emperor 
in 1155. He built the famous castle on the spot. 
Under this castle's protection the town arose, 
developed and gained its name in 1196. Rup- 
preclit I. reigned with his brother II., and 
founded the university in 1386. 

Here the Reformation first found followers. 
I saw here near the university grounds, the 
famous ''Holy Ghost Church," where Luther 
held his first Protestant service, and here the 
historic disputation, 1518, on the question at the 
occasion of the Augustine friars took place. Pre- 
cious to Luther 's memory is a bold granite mon- 
ument on the top of the mountain across the 
Neckar, opposite the church. At one time a 
wall was built through the center of this church 
and Protestants worshipped on one side of the 
wall, and the Catholics on the other. But under 
the French rule the wall was taken down. Then 
Heidelberg was burned, and everything but a 
part of the castle was razed to the ground, save 



94 EUROPE. 

the Holy Ghost Church, 1693. The town began 
to build again after the treaty of Ryswiek, 1697. 
And now under Kort Frederick, the town and 
University flourished. The wall is again re- 
placed in the church, for the fight is still hot in 
old Europe between Protestants and Catholics. 

We reached the Castle after about tw^enty min- 
utes ' walk from the University, along the steep 
mountain side, by the way of the Serpentine 
road. It is about 200 feet above the sea, and 125 
feet above the Neckar. The old part was blown 
up, but relics remain and a part of one tower 
which was built 1294, and to this has been added, 
according to the fancy of the rulers. During 
the thirty years' war, the castle was rendered 
simply uninhabitable. But Carl Ludwig restored 
it, 1649. The French repeatedly demolished it, 
and in 1693 destroyed the great ornamental 
buildings by magazines. Again in 1764 it was 
struck by lightning and the whole interior be- 
came a prey to the flames. Great care has been 
taken of this vast mountain side containing forty 
acres of terraces, gardens and mammoth build- 
ings, miles of winding stone walks up the moun- 
tain side, with occasional stone and iron settees 
and grottos. And now the whole castle is being 
restored, the gardens magnified, the grounds en- 
larged, the fountains and old buildings made 
new. 



EUROPE. 95 

Moneyed men from America and every nation 
of the world have piit up summer houses on the 
sloping mountain sides above, which are a pride 
to Western eyes. There is to be made here one 
of the finest resorts and retreats in the world. 
I found an old wine vat in the huge cellar of 
this castle, built of oak, hooped with wood, which 
holds over 300,000 bottles of wine, and brought 
away a piece of the oak, which represents 500 
years at least, of soundness. There were many 
other vats, stout and strong, hundreds of years 
old. I climbed the mountain side above the 
castle for 600 feet, and the views were simply 
ndescribably grand and artistic down the wind- 
ng river, through the town. The sun was shin- 
ng, the air was clear of fog and smoke, and it 
seemed a vision too beautiful to comprehend. 
Looking up 1,000 feet more, we could see walks 
and railings, restful retreats, and fine graveled 
roads winding around the mountain like the 
thread of a bolt. This was all crowned with 
nature's unequaled plumage of balsam, pine, 
hemlock, birch, boxwood and ivied laurel. So 
now I lay down my pen which has led you to a 
long task of following, and let you rest, assured 
that my notes cannot picture the scene. 

At this state I am becoming stronger and can 
fit myself for traveling with quite a careless ease. 
My joys increase as I reach the southern summer 



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land. My faith in God is being strengthened, 
and with happy heart I march steadily up Mt. 
Pisga's lofty height into the land of Beulah and 
sing, ''I am the child of a King." It was here 
at Heidelberg Castle, Goethe loved to sit and 
muse and sing his rapturous verse. We must 
love every foot of this earth and let its toils, 
cares, loves, joys, friends, music and song weave 
a poem of rhythm for the world's Christ con- 
stantly. 

' ' There is nothing makes men rich and strong 
but that which they carry inside of them. 
Wealth is of the heart, not of the hand. ' ' 



Lucerne, 



J h 



EUROPE. .09 

CHAPTER VIII. 

LUCERNE. 

Trip to Lucerne— Its Mountains— Its Lake of 
Charming Beauty — The Lion of Lucerne — The 
Panorama of Lucerne — Lucerne. 

THE trip to Lucerne was more exciting than 
any yet experienced. We flew along the 
banks of the Rhine like doves in the air, 
and then dove into the bowels of the mountains 
like vultures for prey. 

We were for one moment in sunshine, and 
in a moment the dark recesses of the moun- 
tains entirely hid the sun. The Rhine river is 
heart and lungs and the spinal cord of Germany, 
and the mountains are the spinal column and 
muscular power. This beautiful river makes for 
Germany not only a water way, but two railways, 
one each side of the river. It would be well nigh 
impossible for railways without the banks of the 
river to grade down, and build upon. The river 
means then, Germany's commerce, power, loco- 
motion and pleasure. 

The Black forest mountains scallop the river 
bank on the left as you come down and the 
uncertain, uneven Germanic mountains ruffle her 
right bank. But reaching a beautiful city of 



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hot springs (150 degrees and 180 degrees F. and 
these are courteous life- givers to invalids), called 
' ' Baden Baden, ' ' we have the Vosges mountains 
on the right. Some of the tunnels are one-half 
mile long, and many shorter. But these steep 
mountain sides are terraced by stone walls, and 
planted to grapes, of rarest varieties, even to 
their boldest summits. How they culture, har- 
vest and wine them into three of the best brands 
of wine the world knows, is a human miracle. 
The wines of this section bring more in market 
than others because of their delicate flavor. 
Growing uphill makes a man vigorous and sweet 
flavored ; why would not the struggle for growth 
on a perpendicular mountain side make grapes 
vigorous and sweet? 

I will never forget my approach to the beauti- 
ful city of Lucerne, situated so modestly in the 
defiles of the mountains. We came steaming in 
at 11 p. m. in the bright moonlight. The grass 
was green at the foot of the mountains as we 
wound in and out along the lake. The azure 
colored lake mirrored in our faces the mountains 
snow-peaked and hoary. Up a few hundred feet 
the white snow skirted the mountain side with 
an open lace work of white; farther up their 
shoulders seemed draped with an overhanging 
bridal veil, nicely pleated, formed by the ravines 
in the sides of the mountains. And on their 



EUROPE. 101 

summits lay drifted, hoary crowns of snow, 
heavy with age. 

Neither will I forget the sun tipped peaks of 
the following morning, as God favored us with 
a golden day. By both evening and morning 
view^, I seemed hushed and sweetly awed, into 
reverence, worship, song and praise. Some may 
love the summer scenes of Lucerne best ; but I 
love the winter mountain scenery of clear and 
snowy white. 

The lake consists of four cantons, naturally 
divided by the irregular and abrupt mountains 
into four sections. Its water front and harbor, 
framed with a rich stone railing, and many 
medium-sized steamers and gondolas entering 
into the picture wdth the beautiful azure blue of 
the water as a background, demands your love 
at once. This lake never freezes but in the 
tightest grip of frost, and then, as if enraged, 
scales over. 

Tell 's Piatt lies on its border and makes a fine 
resting place ere you reach its limited length of 
twenty-three miles. This historic place has late- 
ly been restored by a little rustic palace chapel, 
called Tell's Chapel. This is where William 
Tell, of "apple" fame, escaped from the boat 
in which Gesler was conveying him to prison. 
And people throng to this place by myriads. 

Whether Tell was to be imprisoned in the octa- 



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gonal tower which stands in the center of the 
famously painted bridge, I cannot tell. But I 
suspect this old tower of 500 years, which is now 
the treasury of Lucerne, but then contained the 
cells and beheading block, and reaches the height 
of fifty feet, furnished sleeping apartments for 
William Tell. 

Kappell-broucke Bridge, mentioned above, is 
one of the wonders of Lucerne, and a historic 
curiosity worthy of notice to all the world. It 
is roofed and butmented, sided and planked, 
with unpainted wood, and runs across the Reuss 
river diagonally. Some old painter, it is not 
known who, caused 121 boards to be sawed in tri- 
angular form so as to fit the peak, and elaborate- 
ly and artistically had pictured on these boards 
one hundred and twenty-one battles and strug- 
gles of the Swiss people for civil liberty, and 
named this panorama the ''Dance of Death." 
Being five hundred years old they are quite dis- 
tinct paintings, in spite of time and atmospheric 
action. 
Wordsworth writes of this bridge as follows: — 

' ' Long may these homely works, devised of old. 
These simple efforts of Helvetian skill, 
Aid, with congenial influence to uphold 
The State— the centuries' destiny to mould; 
Turning for them who pass the common dust 
Of servile opportunity to gold ; 
Filling the soul with sentiments august, 
The beautiful, the brave, the holy, and the 
just!" 



EUROPE. 103 

Meyer's Panorama, some fifty feet in diameter, 
represents in large view General Burbakie's 
army, in retreat into Switzerland, 1871. The 
artist has so arranged the scenery that at one 
glance we see volumes of history, feel prick(^d to 
the heart in sympathy for the starving soldiers 
and their steeds ; and wrought upon in thought, 
for the dexterity and skill of the general in the 
management of unsuccessful attack. 

The Lion of Lucerne, sculptured in high relief 
upon a great rock, now appears in a beautiful 
nook close by. The people of Lucerne were 
early a very war-like people. France main- 
tained a guard of honor chosen from the yeoman 
of Lucerne because they were simply dauntless. 
In 1792 the Swiss Jacobins were courageous 
against the approach of the Austro-Prussian 
army, and stoned the Tuilleries in the defense of 
the king. In a fierce battle, two battalions of 
Swiss were overpowered entirely, and soon the 
remainder of the army fell in death at duty 's 
post. This lion lies crouched in the mammoth 
ledge of rock, with spear pierced through the 
vitals of his enormous body, but yet although 
heart thrust, holding still by his firm grasp a 
shield against every approaching enemy. This is 
a memorial monument to these faithful guards. 
And above the lion in large letters you read 
"Helvetiorum fidei ae virtute." 



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Lucerne contains about 35,000 people, not so 
well dressed, nor neat of stature, or keen in face 
as might be thought. They are civil, courteous, 
but not too polite or well-bred. They live in the 
midst of nature's sublimities unexcelled; are 
quite fond of the artistic and rusticity of life. 
The city contains many fine hotels and has a 
great many fine homes. The mountain sides are 
fringed and peaked with massive summer homes 
of people from all sections of the earth. This 
place affords a climate favorable for invalids 
and weakly people to grow strong. 



Milan. 



EUROPE. 107 

CHAPTER IX. 

MILAN. 

From Lucerne to Milan — The City — Milan 
Cathedral— Cathedral of Santa Marie Delle 
Grazie—Da Vinci's "Last Supper.' ' 

1WISH my powers of description might be so 
vividly aroused that you could gain a real 
vision of this mountain journey. AVe climb 
the mountains in tunneled coils of railroad iron 
instead of wire coils. 

Now we are flying over bridges and tres- 
tles, looking down hundreds of feet into 
a valley of rocks and seeing bounding brooks 
formed from the mountain shed, while here and 
there a stone hut with real stone roof appears. 
And only a distance of 100 feet or more up the 
mountain side is a covert in a grotto, with chil- 
dren playing at the door. Here husband and 
wife are training grape vines on a little plot of 
ground 200 feet square, if they have been indus- 
trious enough to wall it in so it cannot slide down 
or wash away. But just a little ahead at the 
right or left, and in the bottom of the valley you 
spy a railroad track going into a mountain. You 
are frantically wild that they should build so 
many railroads in such a rough place. But 



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conversing with those riding in the car with you, 
it is explained that there is the place you entered 
a tunnel six or eight minutes ago, and for all 
that ride in the darkness, you are just square 
over the spot you started one-half hour ago, only 
some three hundred feet higher. You conclude 
you are at least going up and content yourself 
with gain in latitude if not in longitude. Mak- 
ing some dozens of quirls in the mountain simi- 
lar to this and buzzing on, bridging torrents, 
sealing heights and spanning chasms, as the 
mountain stream forms a brook or creek, a river 
or torrent, and we find ourselves having sur- 
mounted the mountains by a gigantic, systematic 
invention of that incomprehensible being, man ; 
and we stand wonderingly, some sixty miles 
away from Lucerne, 4,000 feet higher at the gap- 
ing mouth of the world-wide known tunnel, St. 
Gothard. 

We passed through this tunnel, which con- 
sumes some thirty minutes, and is said to be a 
distance of over four miles. This railway tunnel 
is 26 feet wide, double tracked, 20 feet high and 
cost $12,000,000. 25,000 men were employed 
daily for eight years, before the electric tongue 
of fire announced to the world the stupendous 
completion of this monstrous construction. We 
are seeing daylight and the hot sun streams upon 
us as we leave the tunnel's mouth. We wonder 



EUROPE. 109 

if we have found another world. And on we 
speed and twirl, and spin down, down, into the 
welcome valley that leads us to Milan. And 
soon we are here in the city so famous for its 
Cathedral, ' ' and one world-known painting, the 
''Last Supper." 

Milan is fortunately situated in a richly culti- 
vated plain, connected with the rivers Olono, 
and Lambra, by the Grande Vargario and other 
canals. It is the principal city of northern Italy 
in activity, neatness, enterprise and wealth. It 
has beautiful gardens planted with elegant trees 
between the canal and wall. The wall which 
surrounds the city was built by the' Spaniards in 
1555. The city proper is eight miles in circum- 
ference, and its streets, like all ancient cities, are 
very irregular and narrow. There are, however, 
some good, genuine thoroughfares here, and this 
city, awake to its opportunities, is fast increasing 
them. A goodly number of buildings are kept 
in the twentieth century repair, and tastily dec- 
orated. The city has a grand barracks since it 
was the capital of the kingdom of Italy from 
1805-1814. Here stands a beautiful marble arch 
in honor of Napoleon. The city has ten gates 
for entrance, and its indwellers number 500,000. 
The Milan Cathedral astonishes and enchants 
the beholder. But you are not disappointed, for 
the grandeur more than eclipses your expecta- 



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tions. It has a whole forest of pinnacles and a 
wilderness of tracery up against the blue sky, 
rendering it a beautiful sight. It is constructed, 
in entire, of white marble from the quarries of 
Gandoglia. It is 490x352x180 feet, and contains 
4,500 statues and has room for more. The view 
from the tower is enchanting. 

''All its hues 
From the rich sunset to the rising star. 
Their magical variety diffuse; 
And now they fade ; a paler shadow strews 
Its mantle o'er the mountains. Parting day 
Dies like the dolphin, when each pang imbues 
With new color as it gasps away. 
The last stiM loveliest 'till— 'tis gone and all is 
gray." 

Its interior is imposing. It contains double 
aisles, clustered pillars, lofty arches and lustred 
walls, with niches filled with marble figures. A 
pavement composed of red, blue and white 
mosaic is arranged in tasty figures. One reputed 
nail of the "Cross" hangs in a casket over the 
altar. This is at certain feasts carried through 
the streets with attendant ceremonies. This 
Duomo contains also the linen towels with which 
Christ washed the disciples ' feet. This, of Gothic 
edifices, is the finest in Italy, and ranks next to 
St. Peter's at Rome as a church. It contains 
many monuments and tombs. "Giovanni Gia- 
como de Medici ' ' by Michael Angelo is here ; also 
the statue of Governor Caracciolo of Milan. 



EUROPE. Ill 

Santa Marie Delia Grazie is a cathedral visited 
by everyone, and dates in real age from 1463. 
The interior has a fair appearance, though dilap- 
idated. On the wall of the chapel is the magnifi- 
cent Cenacola, or "Last Supper/' by Da Vinci, 
thirty feet by fifteen. It was Da Vinci's first 
work and engaged his time for sixteen years. 
His success is beyond all criticism and many 
have copies of this original hanging on the walls 
of their beautiful homes. There are many other 
churches, but this must suffice. 



i ( 



And storied windows richly dight. 
Casting a dim, religious light." 



Venice. 



EUROPE. 115 

CHAPTER X. 

VENICE. 

Trip — Venice — Grand Canal — St. Mark's 
Square— St. Mark's Church— Doge's Palace- 
Its Art. 

THE trip to Venice was of some interest in 
revealing now and then the appearance of 
a fort on the walls of some little village 
rising mountain high. This reveals the northern 
war-like spirit of Italy in days gone by. The 
landscape is generally level and closely crowded 
wil well tilled vineyards. Some thirty miles 
from Venice we came in sight of the mountains, 
but again they soon disappeared, since there is 
no place in Venice for mountains. 

The word Venice is from Venetia, which once 
was a northern kingdom of Italian Lombardy. 
This city is so different from any others in the 
w^orld that it has no rivals. But it is a queen. 
It is a beauty. Its situation is a marvel. It 
stands on a bay, near the Gulf of Venice, and 
consists of 115 islands. Its islands lie among its 
innumerable lagoons. We approach the city by 
a bridge two and three-quarters miles long and 
thirty feet wide. It is a magnificent structure of 



116 EUROPE. 

beautiful white Italian granite, strongly built on 
piles. Ships cannot come near the city because 
of sandbars and numerous islands in the bay. A 
special pilot must conduct all ships that near 
this city. 

Grand Canal, which passes through the city in 
the form of an "S" is called the Serpentine. 
One hundred and forty-six other canals exist, 
over which are stretched some 367 foot bridges, 
raised and steep for the convenience of the gon- 
dolas' sub-passage. There are no horses, mules 
or cattle in Venice. There are no streets, but 
numerous alleys. Some of these are two feet, 
some three, some six feet wide, laid in marble. 
They catch the snow and rain and seem to lack 
drainage. There is no mud, but sometimes two 
inches of water on these pavements. Landing in 
a gondola at 7 o 'clock on a beautiful moonlight 
evening, to be feathered along at a very easy rate 
for a mile, to the Hotel Victoria, was a golden 
experience, and one of the most inspiring scenes 
I ever expect to witness. The city in water, 
beautifully lighted, filled with glitter, mirrored 
shadows, and looming with grand palaces and 
arc lights, the "Aion! Aion!" of the gondolier, 
and the music of youngsters mingled with now 
and then a violin or distant sounding piano, was 
a romance equal to a fine wedding celebration. 

The gondola lands you. In it you go to visit 



EUROPE. 117 

your nearest neighbor. And these twisted, black 
things you learn to love as you would a pet horse, 
for they move you so easily and smoothly from 
place to place. You walk out to see the sights 
in a gondola, you attend church, opera and shop 
in these easy rocking creatures, rowed so gently 
and swiftly, by the man with a long oar. The 
little cabin in the center of the gondola becomes 
your palace, lighted well at the sides and in front 
by glass windows. You sifon easy cushions, 
with comfortable coverings and chat with some 
three or four friends; or meditate, and gaze on 
the beauty of some structure. 

The Grand Canal is the main street of Venice 
and along its banks are some noted and luxurious 
palaces and most comfortable homes, built of 
Italian marble, three and four stories high. One 
special feature is the great number of palaces, 
and the grandeur of their architecture. Venice 
is noted for its architecture. Among the palaces 
one ''Palazzo Foscari," erected in the 15th cen- 
tury, and this is noted as having lodged Francis 
I. The history of the Doge and his son is famil- 
iar and Byron writes of the palaced city: — 

"My beautiful, my own, 
My only Venice— this is breath ! Thy breeze, 
Thine Adrian sea breeze, how it fans my face. 
The very winds feel native to my veins. 
And cool them into calmness ! How unlike 
The hot gales of the horrid Cyclades, 
Which howled about my Candiote dungeon, 
And made my heart sick. ' ' 



1 1 8 EUROPE. 

At one of these mansions along the canal was 
the home where Shakespeare and Byron sat and 
looked into the mysteries of this freak of a city, 
and then unraveled them in poetry. Shakes- 
peare found here setting for many important 
scenes and acts of his miraculous verse. 

St. Mark's Square is one place in this city 
where we may feel secure. You can here give 
your aching feet their shuffling freedom of a nat- 
ural walk. This is God's gift to the strong, and 
an antidote for many ills. Here Venice seems 
to center its trade, fine manufactures, and dis- 
plays its praiseworthy and especially fine wares. 
Here is the center of law, of politics and religion. 
Nature, through man, has seemed to plan this for 
the street parade circle. It seems the isle of 
Paradise to this magnificent city and 300 feet 
by 500, will cover this whole area of the square. 

St. Mark's Church stands here, and is Byzan- 
tine in style. Its founder was Doge Giustine- 
iano Partecipazio. It was greatly damaged by 
fire 977. It was again restored by Doge Orse- 
olo. He introduced the costly decorations of 
marble and mosaic and ordered from Constanti- 
nople the first Paladoro which we admire so 
much on the high altar. This was originally, the 
Doges' chapel, and has an entrance from the Pal- 
ace through which the Doges came to mass and 
all religious services. 



EUROPE. 119 

Here on the gallery above the central door 
stand the four bronze horses of such historic 
fame. They are the ones which decorated Nero 's 
or Trajan's triumphal arch in Rome, and had 
been thence removed to Constantinople. * * * * 
Now here, these present a masterly and not an 
unfitting approach to the ' ' Holy of Holies. ' ' The 
arch of this door contains a modern mosaic of the 
''Last Judgment," and needs no comments. 
Nearly all of the arches are decorated with mo- 
saics of the 13th century. In one place we saw 
three pieces of red marble. It marks the spot 
where Pope Alexander III. placed his foot on 
the neck of the kneeling Barbarossa, and thus 
he became reconciled to him. The top of the 
baptismal altar is covered with a slab of marble 
from Mt. Tabor. The treasury contains a crys- 
tal vase, reputed to contain some of the Saviour's 
blood. But tradition in this country is some- 
times wild from the real facts. 

The Doges' Palace, as has been mentioned, is 
just at the right of St. Mark's and contains in 
its structure and history volumes of gold, cruelty 
and severest lordship. We stay our pen and enter 
not upon the history of blood. This palace was 
the seat of government, is immense in structure, 
and older than St. Mark's Temple. When the 
body of St. Mark was brought into the city, it was 
laid in state within this palace. Here in the year 



120 EUROPE. 

814, this palace of strong walls became a secure 
place for the Doges who were exposed to the two 
factions of government. The faction of the East 
true to their Emperor or not ; and the one on the 
West true to their Emperor or not, as their in- 
terests seemed hindered or advanced. 

The building contains on one side 107 columns 
of Italian marble. And here, between the two 
red columns the sentences of death were legion. 
The capitals of the lower colonnade, for here are 
two broad ones, are decorated with branches, fig- 
ures of men and beasts. Among them is one, 
"The Judgment of King Solomon." 

Nothing can be found finer than the facade of 
the main entrance. It represents perfectly the 
age of Renaissance, and is the work of Antonio 
Rizzi, 1485. The staircase has as its landing 
Sansovino's colossal statues of Mars and Nep- 
tune, and thus it holds the name, "The Giant 
Staircase." None in medieval days could pass 
up here unless they were registered as nobles. 
This leads to one or two finely decorated halls 
and rooms, and then to the Grand Council Cham- 
ber of 163x82 feet, with a ceiling of fine paint- 
ings 17 feet above the floor. Here none could 
enter unless their names were enrolled in the 
golden book. And they that were twenty-five 
years of age and over came in hither to vote on 
the 4th of December of each year. 



EUROPE. 121 

I wish. I could name the pictures here by the 
famous painters, Paul Veronese and Tinto- 
retto. Such pictures as : " Lera Stormed by the 
Crusaders/' ''The Surrender of Lera/' 1202. 
Room after room decorated and adorned beauti- 
fully with art, and then we pass to the awful 
prison cells, the beheading frame of stone, see 
the door out through which thousands of bodies 
were slid into the sea decapitated. Then we have 
passed over the original "Bridge of Sighs," 
leading from the Judgment Hall by a secret door 
to the cell of execution. The bridge itself is not 
very much. But it is easy for even a visitor or 
reader to sigh here for the thousands that died 
here wrongfully. When will it be counted, 
known or sensed by mortals, the exceeding sacri- 
fice of human blood and flesh for our present 
days' joys? This letter was written while leav- 
ing Naples for Brindisi for a bon voyage. I was 
regular at my meals and slept like a palaced 
king. 

' ' There is a tide in the affairs of men 
Which taken at the flood, leads on to fortune ; 
Omitted, all the voyage of their life 
Is bound in shallows and in miseries. ' ' 



In Beautiful Italy— Florence, 



EUROPE. 125 

CHAPTER XI. 

IN BEAUTIFUL ITALY — FLORENCE. 

Cities Tribute— Plaza Delia Signoria—Uffizi 
Gallery— Pitti Palace — Six Bridges — The Park 
—Michael Angela's Home — Cathedral Santa 
Maria— Campanile— The Baptistry— St. Croce 
— Church of the Annunciation — Church San 
Lorenzo— Santa Maria Novella— People of Flor- 
ence. 

ROMAN Florence, the city of winter flowers, 
art, natural scenery, for situation the most 
unique, crowns both banks of the lovely 
Arno, and could I attempt a feeble description of 
its faultless merits it would take years to com- 
plete the work. 

It is the home of such men as Michael 
Angelo, Dante, Savonarola and Galileo. It is 
filled with the works of their tireless, faultless 
heads and graceful, perfect hands. Each life, 
each work, could use the spare moments of a 
traveler for a life-time. But while we mention a 
few of this city's merits we hope only to stimu- 
late your natures for further investigation, and 
amuse your thoughtful minds for the moment. 

Plaza Delia Signoria is the historic, as it is 
also the center of Florence. Here, in 1498, the 
dauntless and faithful friend of all Christendom. 



126 



EUROPE. 



"Savonarola/' was cruelly hanged, his body 
burned, his ashes scattered, that every vestige of 
his life's influence might perish forever. But 
you cannot destroy a human life. It was born 
to be eternal. Its influence outlives martyrdom, 
and ascends, by the lawless treatment of mobs, 
when linked with Jesus Christ. Here stands the 
old capitol, a striking example of the Florentine 
castle of the Middle Ages. At its entrance is 
Bandinelli's group of "Hercules and Cacus." 
The court is magniflcently columned with tasty 
art, and here stands a fountain, with a figure by 
Verrocchio. The hall contains the statue of Sav- 
onarola, and is frescoed by Vasari. This, how- 
ever, is only a type of the plazas, or squares, of 
Florence, but it must suggest them all in this 
brief review. Here you find the master statue of 
the prodigious Angelo, "David." It rivals, in my 
mind, that masterpiece in Rome in the church of 
St. Pietro in Vincula, "Moses." But the build 
of David's head especially excels the head of 
Moses. Rogers said: — 

' ' Of all the fairest cities of the earth, 
None is so fair as Florence. 'Tis a gem 
Of purest ray ; and what a light broke forth. 
When it emerged from darkness ! Search 

within, 
Without all is enchantment ! 'Tis the Past 
Contending with the Present ; and in turn 
Each has the mastery. " 



EUROPE. 127 

The Uffizi Gallery, its approach, corridors and 
all, seems the palace of art, and it is. It is the 
richest and most varied in the world (except, 
perhaps, the Royal Gallery at Madrid). Haw- 
thorne says of it, "The Tribune seems the sanc- 
tuary of this temple." It contains the ''Venns 
de Medici," the ''Dancing Fann," the ''Apol- 
lino," "The Wrestlers," and other master- 
pieces of sculpture; and here the best works in 
painting by Raphael, Michael Angelo, Titian and 
Correggio, are represented. 

This gallery forms a rectangle with one end 
left out for an approach and is three stories 
high. And to walk through it at any kind of a 
moderate pace without stopping to admire any 
special pictures or statues, would consume two 
hours at least. 

Ascending three flights of stairs we enter a 
hall and find the busts of ten of the Medici fam- 
ily. Here is ' ' the Florentine Boar, ' ' and the 
two "Wolf Dogs" sitting one each side of the 
door of entrance. The corridors are picture 
galleries and filled with sculpture. On we move 
to the room of the Tuscan school and find the 
"Drunken Bacchus," "The Faun," "The 
Wounded Adonis," and an "Apollo," all by 
Michael Angelo. Then running by a populous 
city of paintings and statues, we glide into an- 
other room and find the "Adoration of the 



128 EUROPE. 

Magi," "Potiphar's Wife," by Lippi; also his 
"Judith Slaying Holof ernes." Still advancing 
we find a precious ''jewel box" of rock crystal, 
an exquisite piece of workmanship, by Vicentius 
assisted by his daughter, representing the events 
of the ''Passion." Still on and the Museum 
room represents to the beholder the "Medicean 
\^ase" found at Hadrian's Villa near Tivoli, and 
the ' ' Infant Hercules ' ' struggling with serpents, 
and the group, Cupid and Psyche, which is 
everywhere present. 

In the Hall of Baroccio we find "Bacchus," 
surrounded by nymphs, "The Madonna del 
Popolo," "The Infant Savior" in the manger, 
and by it a beautiful mosaic table. This table 
cost twenty-five years of labor, and twenty- two 
workmen were engaged upon it. In another hall 
we find Henry IV. at the Battle of Ivry, his 
entry into Paris after the battle, by Rubens. 

These names may have tried unartistic stu- 
dents, but we have left out thousands which might 
be cited, and their mention would make the blood 
tingle in your veins with new life and inspira- 
tion. "The Massacre of the Innocents," "Res- 
urrrection," "Hercules," "Between Vice and 
Virtue," "Descent of our Savior into Hades," 
' ' The Last Judgment, ' ' etc. 

The Pitti Palace was the former residence of 
King Emanuel. It contains over five hundred 



EUROPE. 129 

paintings. Here we find the "Assumption," 
''Death of Abel," ''Fra Bartolomeo" and ''St. 
Mark," by Angelo; "Rebecca at the Well," 
' ' Cosimo Guided by Virtue and Glory, " " Cupid 
Born of Venus," and "Vulcan," by Salvator 
Rosa; and many great landscapes by Rubens. 
This is a beautiful palace dedicated to the public 
interests. The gift of a great man. Its sur- 
roundings, gardens, fountains and flowers, 
represent the wealth of one whose good works 
and wishes still live and here is the product of 
the labor of many helpful hands. 

And then I have left out the "Academy of 
Fine Arts, ' ' the National Museum, the libraries, 
public and private. The Tribuna, dedicated to 
Galileo, The Egyptian and Tuscan Museum, the 
Majolica and some dozen other places that are a 
glory for anyone's eyes to look upon. 

The six bridges crossing the Arno are four of 
them stone and two suspension bridges. The 
floods of the river have undermined the stone 
bridges, since the Arno is abundantly supplied 
by the mountain streams and often fills its banks 
to overfiowing and keeps muddy almost always. 

The Eastern "Ponte alle Grazie" has many 
small houses built on either side of it and they 
have so well braced it, that it has always stood 
secure. It was builded as long ago as 1237 by 
Lapo. 



130 EUROPE. 

The "Ponte Vecchio, " built the second time 
in 1078, is a real jewelry shop or suite of shops 
from one end to the other. And above this runs 
a gallery connecting the Uffizi Gallery with the 
Pitti Palace, a very fortunate construction for 
tourists. 

The beautiful bridge "Santa Trinita," by 
Ammanati, was built so slender that carriages 
were not allowed ; but of late years it has proved 
stronger than it was thought to be. Teams now 
cross it in safety. This bridge is elaborately 
decorated with statues, which represent the Four 
Seasons. The effect is very attractive and they 
give much pleasure to its weary art-loving pedes- 
trians. 

The bridge for carriages has several times 
given away. Ammanati restored it, and invited 
the whole populace to come upon the bridge and 
witness a theatrical celebration of the infernal 
regions which was given from rafts below. The 
people came. The bridge was filled. It gave 
away, and many doubtless experienced what 
they came to see, for multitudes went down 
and were crushed forever from this earth into 
eternity. The host must have suffered painful 
pangs for the invitation he gave. 

The Park is the Casino of the Florentine peo- 
ple, and is the finest promenade and drive in all 
Italy. For the space of two miles from the Leg- 



EUROPE. 131 

horn railroad on the bank of the Arno, is laid out 
a nice walk and graveled carriage pavement, 
almost overshadowed by lofty shade trees of vari- 
ous kinds. In the middle of the park a circle is 
arranged, where the band executes fine music 
several afternoons in the week, and all Florence 
that makes any pretension of being anybody, is 
supposed to be present. Their equipages are of 
all kinds and are stylish and rich. Many of 
these excel any city of the world save, perhaps, 
Paris. Around the music the carriages congre- 
gate. The gentlemen descend and visit their 
lady friends, gossip, flirt, or promenade along 
the river, frequenting the little leafy grottos for 
solitaries and lovers, as they are supplied in 
abundance. Carriages, horsemen and footmen 
each have their separate avenues. 

The fashion of Florence cares not how you 
dress, nor much who you are as to culture or cap- 
ital, if you drive your turnout in the Casino, and 
attend the opera. It costs about $120 a month 
for your turnout and from $4 to $5 a night for 
five or six nights at the opera; $150 a month 
might pay for your fashion and pleasure in Flor- 
ence, with one-half of your time thrown in. 

^ ' He is only fantastical that is not in fashion. ' ' 

"Some jay of Italy, 
Whose mother was her painting hath betrayed 

him; 
Poor I am stale, a garment out of fashion. ' ' 



132 EUROPE. 

Michael Angelo 's home is one interesting domi- 
cile in Florence. It is on Palazzo Buonarotti and 
entertains visitors free on Thursdays. Here you 
find his sword, canes, a portrait of himself, a 
small figure of Christ by Cellini, and many other 
things dear to this god of sculpture. He lived 
from 1474 to 1564, and of designers he was the 
greatest that ever lived. When asked why he 
did not marry, he coolly answered, ' ' Painting is 
my wife, and my works are my children. ' ' Then 
his greatest child and his beloved w^ife are both 
wrapped up in his "Last Judgment." 

' ' To live is Christ and to die is gain. ' ' 

The cathedrals of Florence are very numerous, 
kept with pride, immensely decorated with select 
paintings and thickly inhabited by marble stat- 
ues and tombs, of great interest to every lover 
of thought and artistic beauty. To every true 
worshiper of art they give solemnity and sublim- 
ity to the place and find their common center in 
the God of Righteousness, love and light. 

"Santa Maria" is the largest cathedral and 
its architecture is interesting. Arnolfo origi- 
nally designed it because the Florentines wanted 
to excel all others that had preceded it. Arnolfo 
died and Giotto was requested to finish it. He 
died and Brunelleschi was obliged to complete 
it. Its size is 501 feet by 388 by 342 feet wide. 
The dome is the largest in the world, 138 feet in 



EUROPE. 133 

diameter. It is grand in its style of structure 
and served as a model to Michael Angelo for St. 
Peter's at Rome. The various colored marbles 
comprising its pavement have a most delightful 
effect. The. stained glass windows of the 15th 
century are very choice in color. It contains the 
marble monuments of Giotto and Brunelleschi, 
its architects, by Bugiano, a pupil of the latter. 
Those who ascend the dome itself, find a most 
charming place to view the whole city. 

The Campanile is its bell tower, 275 feet high, 
and 413 steps, quite easy of ascent, lead up to 
the six large bells. The largest bell has carved 
on it the Medici arms. At the side of this tower 
are two fine statues, one of Arnolfo, the other of 
Brunelleschi. To say the least they are models 
of recent Italian art. The latter is represented 
with the plan of the cupola on his knee, looking 
up to the realization of it. In the wall is a stone 
set in, called Dante's seat, where he used to sit 
and contemplate its prodigious finish. 

The Baptistry on the west end of the cathedral 
is elegantly constructed. It is builded of black 
and white marble taken from the Temple of 
Mars. It was first built open at the top, like the 
Pantheon at Rome, but in the 15th century the 
dome was closed Avith a lantern. The original 
building is said to be of the seventh century, 
and it was surrounded by graves up to the 12th 
century. Its bronze doors are its charm, one of 



134 EUROPE. 

which gives an allegorical history of John the 
Baptist. Throughout all Tuscany a carnival 
was celebrated at the finish of this wonderful 
door. Michael Angelo, in speaking of these 
doors, said: ''They are worthy of being the 
gates of Paradise. ' ' They contain such subjects 
as these : ' ' Creation of Man, " ' ' Pain and Labor 
after the Banishment from Paradise," ''Noah 
after the Deluge, " " The Promise Made to Abra- 
ham, " etc. 

Dante happily alludes to this building as his 
Mio bel San Giovani. And though he broke one 
of the baptismal founts in saving a child from 
drowning, he was always delighted with this 
ornament of the city. And more than 4,500 are 
baptized here annually. 

The Church of St. Croce is, in my mind, the 
most important in the city. It contains the mon- 
uments of the most celebrated men of Italy. 
Byron mentions them in "Childe Harold" in 
most unique verse:— 

"In Santa Croce 's holy precincts lie 
Ashes which make it holier ; dust which is. 
Even in itself, an immortality, 
Though there were nothing save the past and 

this. 
The particles of those sublimities 
Which have relapsed to chaos; here reposes 
Angelo 's, Alfero's bones, and lies 
The starry Galileo, with his woes ; 
Here Machiavelli 's earth returned to whence 

it rose." 




DANTE S TOMB 
FLORENCE 



EUROPE. 135 

Arnolfo was its architect and it is 460x135 
feet. Here the initials ''I. H. S." originated by 
St. Bernardino. After the plague of 1437, he 
had these initials inserted to denote the mission 
of Christ, and they stand for this, Jesus Human 
Savior, or Jesus the Savior of Mankind. Here 
is the tomb of John Ketteric, the great bishop. 
The monument of Michael Angelo is elegant and 
its position in the church was selected by himself. 
Alfieri's monument, by Canova, and the colossal 
monument of Dante^ that of the noted Machia- 
velli and Lanze, writer on Italian art, Nobili, 
the philosopher, Targoni, the naturalist, Galileo, 
the astronomer, Lami, the historian, grace the 
holy place. "What a book it would be that could 
fully portray the worth of these to the world! 
The pulpit is of red and white marble, and is a 
charm in itself. In the piazza is a great statue 
of Dante set up by Victor Emmanuel in 1865. 
It stands on a lofty pedestal engraved with these 
words, ' ' Dante Alighiori. ' ' 

The Church of the Annunciation is one of 
charming interior, and somewhat original, espec- 
ially in the ornamentation of its walls. It was 
built by seven Florentine gentlemen and dedicat- 
ed to the Virgin of Annunciation. It contains a 
miraculous fresco of the Annunciation, upon 
which immense wealth was expended, and a "Ma- 
donna ' ' by Andrea del Sarto, for which he only 



136 EUROPE. 

received in payment a sack of wheat, but the 
worth of which cannot be estimated, since no 
price could buy it. 

On the plaza of this church you find the splen- 
did Foundling Hospital and in it an inspiring 
''Adoration of the Magi," by Ghirlandaio. On 
this same square are two beautiful fountains 
designed hy Tacca. The equestrian statue 
Ferdinand I. cast from cannons taken from the 
Turks by the Knights of St. Stephen exalts this 
place. 

The Gamine contains two frescoes at its ent- 
rance, which gave Raphael his inspiration for his 
' ' St. Paul Preaching at Athens, ' ' and ' ' Loges. ' ' 
They are ' ' Adam and Eve Driven from the Gar- 
den," and "St. Paul Visiting St. Peter in 
Prison." Here is a "Virgin and Child," said 
to have been painted by St. Luke. 

The Church of San Lorenzo is coarse without, 
but on the inside it is filled with eminence in its 
decorations and ornaments. For these Michael 
Angelo obtains credit in part. The Medici here 
receive renown, a family which practically 
gained control of Florence and held it for some 
years. Cosimo, with the title of ' ' Pater Patriae, ' ' 
ruled it as a republic for some time. Giovanni 
and his wife, Picarda, here have their tombs. 
And here is erected by Lorenzo and Guitiano de 
Medici an elegant monument to their father's 



EUROPE. 137 

■ 

menioTy, and the church contains their own 
tombs. The work on these monuments is consid- 
ered fully equal to any work of this kind in 
Italy. The monuments and the chapel, which 
they grace^ were executed by the clever hand of 
Angelo. 

The Medicean chapel is here and for its fres- 
coes and mosaics is considered the greatest 
in Florence. The chapel was built for the spe- 
cial purpose of containing the "Holy Sepul- 
chre/' which the Tuscan ruler was to steal from 
Jerusalem. But his treachery was found out 
when his servants began detaching it from the 
church. The expense of the marble inlaid walls 
of this church, decked with many precious stones, 
is colossal. The mosaic art displayed and the 
rivaling frescoes of the ceiling, representing the 
leading events from the creation to the last 
judgment, are full of value. 

The Medici library contains 900 volumes, 
which rank with any, even those of the Vatican. 
Here are preserved Dante's most sacred manu- 
scripts, and the finger of Galileo, stolen from 
his tomb, is here preserved in a bottle. 

We must pass by the church of San Marco 
which contains the celebrated ' 'Crucifix," by 
Giotto, which attracted all the concourse of peo- 
ple when it was arranged in this chapel. It gave 
to Giotto a lasting fame. 



138 EUROPE. 

The Church Santa Novella must be mentioned, 
since it was called by Michael Angelo, his be- 
trothed. This was once the finest church in 
Florence, but the restorations have so disfigured 
it that it has lost the gilt of its charm. Especially 
it is noted for its fresco paintings by Girlandajo, 
Michael Angelo's master. One of the chapels 
contains the crucifix by Brunelleschi, who rivalled 
Donatello ; and the latter seeing it, let his dinner 
fall from his apron and remarked, ' ' To you it is 
granted the power of carving figures of Christ, 
to me that of peasants." 

In the church of ''San Michael," ''San Spir- 
ito," and others, there is an intense interest. 
But in the church of Ognisanti is the tomb of 
Americus Vespucius, the discoverer of the un- 
rivalled, now unequalled and eagle- crowned 
America of which we sing: — 

"I love thy rocks and rills. 
Thy woods and templed hills, 
My heart with rapture thrills 
Like that above." 

The inhabitants of Florence are a strange mix- 
ture of a few in the height of wealth and fashion, 
loving display and gorgeousness ; and a num- 
berless lot of famishing men, women and chil- 
dren existing on crusts and living in alleys. 
They beg of travelers, and persecute you some- 
times till you think the beggar is master over 



EUROPE. 139 

you. We find cleanliness, but, oh, the cesspools 
of filth bespeak their poison by their odor. The 
city is queen in art, and indeed crowded with 
luxury and beauty of which poets may sing its 
worth. But the scavengers' banner floats in the 
midst, with a dirty raggedness, which cannot fail 
to reveal the real spirit born in its common peo- 
ple. And yet we regard them with Christian 
kindness and long to see Christ rule here. This 
city is besieged with little, skinny donkeys, 
hitched to large, two-wheeled, unpainted carts; 
and with little, bony horses tugging heavy loads. 
My visit in Florence was very delightful. Here 
I met an English family from Devonshire, 
which had preceded me in the city five days. 
They made the hotel hours at the "Washington" 
bright and instructive. This city contains as 
much to interest the traveler as populous, crowd- 
ed Rome. 

"Contentment and aspiration are in every 
true man 's life. ' ' 



In Sunny Italy — Mystic Rome. 



EUROPE. 143 

CHAPTER XII. 

IN SUNNY ITALY — MYSTIC ROME. 

Impressions of the City — Parliament — Wan- 
dering in Bome — The Colosseum— T lie Forum— 
The Senate House— Julian's Rostrum— Arch of 
Titus— The Capitol— Pantheon. 

THE land of Romulus and Remus is no 
longer a fable. The seven hills of Rome 
•are no clouded dreams. The Appian 
Way is no more a web of thought. Its myths 
have vanished. 

Its dreams are well-wrought mountains. 
Its Appian Way is a traversed highway. Our 
eyes have seen, our feet have trod its narrow 
alleyways. We have scanned its more modern 
lofty mountains of God's masonry, paraded its 
much improved, broader, more airy avenues of 
the 20th century and wondered at its relics of 
the past. 

The capital of .Italy, the home of their king, 
and the chief city, is situated sixteen miles from 
the mouth of the Tiber and seven bridges here 
unite its banks. The left bank bearing ancient 
Rome, the right one holds the modern city. But 
it is all one in law, customs and order and disor- 
der of its achieving classes. 

Its people are of sombre hue, but scheme and 



144 EUROPE. 

craft hold no second place in their active brains. 
They look for progress, they seek for enterprise 
and civilization of the best sort. They will find 
it, though through a course of many years, for 
the burden of their population has been, and is, 
somewhat engrossed in frivolous satiety and 
deranged belief of satisfaction. Here is grouped 
a strange mixture of wealth, of purity, of beauty, 
of good sense, of exquisite taste, and lofty 
thought; with less separation from the low, the 
ignorant, the depraved, the vile and insolent, 
than in any city I have ever known. 

You will find an extravagant silk merchant's 
palace on one of these narrow lanes, surrounded 
on all sides by lowest hovels of vice, drinking 
brothels, and an almost naked, starving popula- 
tion. A nice, up-to-date millinery establishment 
amid a string of lowly kept tenements, is not a 
novel arrangement in Rome. 

In winter time there may be some allowance 
made, but Rome has none too much pride in the 
condition of its streets, its habits of gentility, 
and broad-cultured spirit of assistant friendli- 
ness. But some of her inhabitants are superb 
in business, classic in taste, manners, and well- 
rounded manhood. That these may increase 
most rapidly is an anxious wish of Italy 's sturdy 
fi'iends. And we shall wait for their steps to 
climb upward with the progress of nations, for , 



EUROPE. 145 

once glorious Rome was sunken in the depths of 
her own sin and corruption. And the resurrec- 
tion of a nation is much slower than its rising 
from defeat. 

Its schools of Protestant light, and churches of 
broader view, are finding here toleration, and 
also real peace and patronage. 

The Parliament buildings were the first we 
found on our initiative walk. They are of fine 
limestone, large and high, standing on a rise of 
ground in open space, with wide streets, and it 
really seems palatial for the crowded city. Then 
winding through one of the gates of walled 
Rome, I found something of the boulevards with- 
out the city, and the manner of life of some of 
the poorer classes outside of the walls. I was 
aware I was alone in a strange world, and that 
the animated gaze of old and young was turned 
on me from the repeated remark "Englisee" 
and ''Americano." 

The streets of Rome grew, and were not 
formed happily for a stranger to make his way 
in. So passing the Exchange building, wander- 
ing on through a park and thence seeking my 
weary way back to the ''Marini Ho^el, " I found 
large numbers of students wearing the low- 
crowned silk hat, like the priests, tramping 
through the streets as though they owned the 
town, much as our American boys do. Their air 



146 EUROPE. 

impressed me. ' ' You are alone in a strange city. 
You ought to have a guide. These walks are not 
for you." But born with the belief that an 
American boy has rights anywhere, I showed a 
little of American independence, and soon I was 
given my share of the walk and gentlemanly 
treatment. They looked for fun elsewhere, and 
meeting afterward each day courtesy continued. 
But it was growing dark, and the marketers and 
promenaders were hustling home, some in attire 
' ' elegantee. ' ' The Italian woman can outdo the 
American women in gay street dress. "Whew! 
They love it more. It is their ambition to dress. 
May the good sense of Americans prevail, and 
spirit, character and comfort always domineer. 
But I did not reach home. I inquired of several 
policemen the way to ' ' Hotel Marini, ' ' and they 
smiled and said, ' ' nain tello. ' ' A hundred cab- 
men wanted to take me. They, the policemen, 
knew where ' ' Hotel Marini ' ' was. But if I had 
lost myself, I was sure and determined to find 
myself again. One hour passed and I came to 
' ' Plaza Populi, ' ' and I found myself, for this is 
only a little distance from "The Marini." I 
had been within two rods of the hotel twice on 
other streets and asked a policeman on the corner 
for direction. He would not tell me, for he 
stood in with the cabmen and guides, to extract 
change from strangers. They think a stranger 



EUROPE. 147 

has no business to undertake to do Eome without 
cabmen and guides at their purse strings. But 
when you know what you want to see, they are 
very often a nuisance, and one might as well 
learn his way at once. 
Morning came ! 

' ' I am in Rome ! Oft as the morning ray 
Visits these eyes, waking at once, I cry. 
Whence this excess of joy? what has befallen 

me? 
And from within a thrilling voice replies, 
Thou art in Rome ! . A thousand busy thoughts 
Rush on my mind ; a thousand images, 
And I spring up as girt to run a race. 
Thou art in Rome ! The city that so long 
Reigned absolute, the mistress of the world; 
The mighty visions that the prophets saw 
And trembled; that from nothing, from the 

least. 
The loveliest village (what but here and there 
A reed-roofed cabin by a river side.) 
Grew into everything ; and year by year. 
Patiently, fearlessly working her way 
'er brook and field, o 'er continent and sea ; 
Not like the merchant with his merchandise. 
Or traveler with staff and scrip, exploring. 
But hand to hand and foot to foot through 

hosts. 
Through nations numberless, in battle array. 
Each behind each, when the other fell. 
Up and in arms, at length subdued them all. 
The city that by temperance, fortitude 
And love of glory, towered above the clouds. 
Then fell ; but falling, kept the highest seat, 



148 EUROPE. 

And in her loneliness, her pomp of woe, 
Where now she dwells, withdrawn into the 

wild, 
Still 'er the mind maintained from age to age 
Her empire undiminished. 
There as though 
Grandeur attracted grandeur, are beheld 
All things that strike, ennoble from the depths 
Of Egypt, from the classic fields of Greece, 
Her groves, her temples— all things that inspire 
Wonder, delight. Who would not say the 

forms 
Most perfect, most divine, had, by consent. 
Flocked thither to abide. eternally. 
Within those silent chambers where they dwell 
In silent intercourse ? ' ' 

From 1814 to 1848, the popes had power. 
Then Pius XI. was obliged to flee from Rome. 
For a year a republic was declared. In 1850, 
Napoleon III. established papal power and 
placed an army there for the defense of the 
Pope. The Italians sought to make Rome the 
capital in 1860, but the honor was conferred on 
beautiful Florence. After the war between 
France and Prussia, 1867, the Italian troops, after 
five hours bombardment, marched into Rome, 
and since this time the states of the church have 
been incorporated at Rome, and Rome has since 
been the charmed capital. 

The Pope, however, has not felt his former 
freedom since the annexation, and lingers in the 
Vatican. The former Catholic festivals at St. 



EUROPE. 149 

Peter's have many of them lost their influence 
and use. The autocratic spirit is lessened, and it 
must needs continue to lessen, for breadth of 
culture demands freedom. Men will be guided, 
but not controlled. The one Saviour and Inter- 
cessor for each of us ; seeking to cleanse and lead 
each individual, is the goal of all enlightened 
and thus all present and future human beings. 

The Colosseimiwas the first building of Rome's 
old and tyrant fame, visited. How much the 
simplest boy and girl have heard and read in 
story, novel and history, of this bloody place. 
Our minds are set against its ferocious crimes, 
cruelties and merry mad-made sports. And you 
approach the place with the feeling of gory awe. 
But those days are gone. We must cover their 
mortal death with a glimpse into future glory, 
and study things as they are, if we would make 
the mortal of to-day, and the spirit of coming 
endlessness to blossom into full richness and 
fruitage. 

Of ancient structures this amphitheatre is the 
greatest. To honor Titus it engaged 60,000 
Jews ten years. But they were disturbed by the 
feuds of the Middle Ages. When it was conse- 
crated as holy ground, then the ravages of men 
ceased to annoy the promoters of the enterprise. 
It was inaugurated in the year 819, and 
accommodated 87,000 spectators. It is circular 



150 EUROPE. 

in form, with vast brick, stone, and marble walls, 
with great massive arches, running three stories 
into the amphitheatre and absolutely roofless. 
Underneath are the dens for the starving wild 
beast's confinement before the contest. Great 
prisons of stone, barred with stone and rugged 
with iron, are these. The first story was above 
these dens and was of Doric architecture and 
contained eighty arches of gigantic space and 
thickness. Here the nobility and those whose 
names were enrolled in the ' ' Golden Book, ' ' sat, 
being protected by a slanting wall extending 
upward from the arena some twelve feet in 
height. The second story is Ionic in style and 
here the knights and their families were seated. 
The third was Corinthian in construction, and 
here the common people sat and cheered on the 
games. Still above the servants and slaves and 
barbarous crowd could crouch and stand. The 
outer wall was 157 feet high. The arena where 
the contests took place is 277x177 feet; and the 
whole area of the building is six acres. 

The arena pavement is caved in now, but over 
some parts of it the ground is kept as it used to 
be. Broken columns are lying here and there. 
The walls are crumbling and have been restored 
from time to time. The state of the ruins seems 
to rightly indicate the dying out of the gladiato- 
rial spirit, as well as the almost forever fading 



EUROPE. 151 

spirit of martyrdom and Christian persecution 
from our atmosphere of Christian love and self- 
forgetfulness. Here, where at the dedication of 
the great building 1820 years ago, 5,000 animals 
and 10,000 captives were slain, under the cheer 
of multitudes, is marked to-day with desolation, 
deathly stillness, mossed and crumbled walls, 
ghostly dens of emptiness, decaying marble, and 
no inhabitant but the curious visitor and the 
prattle of now and then a school boy or girl who 
through instruction comes here for happy, inno- 
cent pleasure. We cannot stay here. We must 
pass on to some other skeleton of the past, and 
thus know the present and future more clearly. 

"Ivy usurps the laurel's place of growth; 
But the bloody gladiator's circus stands 
A noble wreck of ruinous perfection. 
While Caesar's chambers and the Augustian 
halls 

. Grovel on earth in indistinct decay." 

The Roman Forum occupies the ground which 
was a market place before the founding of 
mighty Rome, B. C. 853. Here Romulus and 
Tatius concluded a peace and connected their 
two cities by a road which became the ''Sacred 
Way." Tullus built a stone senate house and 
Marcius built his prison, which is now called the 
Marmatine, adjoining it. This was the Forum's 
beginning, and primarily its length was three 



152 EUROPE. 

times its breadth. Butcher's stalls sprang up 
along the way. But these in time gave way, 
for the arches and temples which were con- 
structed. 

The temple of Castor and Pollux was perhaps 
one of the finest edifices of this great senate seat. 
But three columns are now standing of this 
grand colonnade which was erected 482 B. C. 
These three columns are the first and most beau- 
tiful in Rome's past or present history. It was 
built on a more lofty foundation than the others 
and its porches became the platform for speech- 
making. And here Marcius attacked Sylla and 
Cato and Metullus and they here had their de- 
bate. Here Cicero tells us the steps were torn 
up for missiles in 58 B. C.^ when the strife of 
words became actual warfare. These old orators 
stopped for nothing. They sought their ends at 
any cost. 

The Temple of Saturn has a singular history. 
Before the siege of Troy, when unfaithful Jupi- 
ter had defeated his father, Saturn, and the 
Titans in battle, Saturn and his followers threw 
themselves into the sea to escape Jupiter's vic- 
torious band. James, the man of peace, here 
found Saturn and made way with him, for which 
reason they were called Latins. The Greek fol- 
lowers of Hercules built an altar to Saturn, and 
the sacrifices offered here initiated the Greek 



EUROPE. 153 

carnival ''Saturnalia." This temple was built 
over the altar, a part of the Forum. It was re- 
stored from fire by the Roman people, but now 
only eight columns with their capitals and archi- 
traves remain. The front columns are fine gray 
granite ; those at the side are red. 

Of the Temple of Vespasian, erected 94 A. D., 
only three columns remain. The old rostrum in 
front of this temple was where the orator ad- 
dressed both Plebeian and Patrician. And here 
only the old platform remains, where the Patri- 
cians and Plebeians carried on their war of words, 
in the early Republic. Here the heads of An- 
thony and Octavius were hung up ; the bodies of 
Sylla and Claudius were exposed. Cicero deliv- 
ered two of his orations to Cataline here, and in 
the same place his own head and hands were 
hung up. 

The Senate House, built in 680, B. C, for the 
Patres Conscripti, on the spot where Tarpeia 
met Tatius, was changed into two churches. 
Formerly it was an oblong hall, containing rows 
of seats and a presidential chair. Down these 
steps Superbus flung the body of Servius Tul- 
lius. Here Julius C^sar was assassinated. No 
fire was ever built in this senate house. Cicero 
tells us that at one time it was so cold the sena- 
tors could not meet. Some old friezes and the 
foundations of this historic oratorical place still 
remain. 



154 EUROPE. 

The Rostrum of Julian is at the end of the 
Forum proper, and in front of the temple is the 
tomb of Julius Csesar. Now the foundation and 
a ledge of marble only remain, nearly two feet in 
elevation. It was here that Mark Anthony ex- 
posed the dead body of Caesar when he made that 
speech, the fame of which will never cease, be- 
cause it was immortalized by Shakespeare: 
"Friends, Romans, countrymen, lend me your 
ears ! " It seems real and right to linger here a 
moment. For many times these ringing words 
have coursed through our beings and set all our 
nature on fire. Near here Julius Caesar was cre- 
mated, and his ashes seem to have been scattered 
world-wide, and their fire will ne'er go out. 

The Arch of Titus is now standing at the sum- 
mit of the Sacred Way. And it is memorable in 
this, that it was erected to commemorate the tak- 
ing of Jerusalem by Titus. The bas reliefs re- 
main, representing the spoils of the temple, 
which were the seven golden candlesticks, the 
golden table, the ark of the covenant, etc. But 
no one knows where these are, for finger thieves 
have carried them about from place to place. 

' ' Arches on arches ! As it were that Rome, 
Collecting the chief trophies of her line, 
Would build up all her trophies in one dome. ' ' 

The Capitol, founded on the ancient citadel of 
Rome, has a fronting towards the Forum, quite 



EUROPE. 155 

well preserved. The present structure is mod- 
eled by Michael Angelo, and in its tower, where 
no one can now enter, hangs the bell which an- 
nounces the death of the Pope and the call to 
carnival. Other buildings lie here, and also 
steps leading down to the Forum. 

In its museum we find the bronze group of the 
wolf nursing Romulus and Remus. Many an- 
tique marbles and bronzes appear as you pass on. 
In the court yard is the colossal statue of Ocean- 
us, and on each side an ancient Egyptian Lion. 
Hercules' colossal Mars and Jupiter are here. 
Sarcophagi are found within. One contains the 
skeleton of a young girl about to be married. 
The wreath is on the head, the necklace and 
three rings on the finger, as well as the doll 
which is usually buried with brides. 

Here is the hall of Portland vases, the hall of 
the Faun, the hall of the Centaurs, and the hall 
of the Emperors. The ''Venus" of the Capitol 
is one of most exquisite Parian marble, ranking 
with the best art the world has ever, or ever will, 
see. Cupid and Psyche, Leda and the Swan are 
here. 

The Hall of the Dying Gladiator is in this 
museum. The statue stands in the middle of 
the hall and is really a dying Gaul. This is a 
Greek w^ork of great worth. The naturalness of 
the shrinking limbs, relaxing muscles, failing 



156 EUROPE. 

strength and anguish of face, speak to you in 
life-like touch of pity. Some one wrote of this 
fittingly: — 

" I see before me the Gladiator lie ; 
He leans upon his hand his manly brow, 
Consents to death, but conquers agony, 
And his drooped head sinks gradually low 
And through his side the last drops ebbing 

flow— 
From the red gash fall heavy, one by one, 
Like the first of thunder shower ; and now 
The arena swims around him ; he is gone, 
Ere ceased the inhuman shout which hailed 

the wretch who won." 

Here also is ' ' Juno. ' ' Michael Angelo said of 
this piece : ' ' It is the most beautiful thing in 
Rome," and here close beside it the noted 
"Faun" of Praxiteles. 

The Pantheon perhaps deserves our earlier 
attention, since it is one of the most intensely 
interesting places in all Rome. The Pantheon, 
built in the year 27 A. D., is in almost complete 
preservation. Its odd form and its strange 
bachelor window in the top, and its simplicity of 
construction altogether give one a complete sur- 
prise. Its circular form, called rotunda, is 132 
feet in diameter, and its height measures the 
same. It receives light only by the round aper- 
ture in the center of the roof which is never cov- 
ered from stars or storm or sunshine. The 
bronze doors are the heavy ones that served it 



EUROPE. 157 

formerly. The portico was added after its com- 
pletion, and is 110 feet long, 44 inches deep, con- 
taining 16 magnificent columns of granite. This 
building was intended for the statues of great 
men. It is not used as such. It would have 
been better had it thus continued. It now gives 
one the impression of being a church with its 
numerous altars and crosses, the women kneeling 
before these altars, and the one chief platform 
directly opposite the entrance has the finishings, 
the paintings, the frescos which give you that 
feeling. But the tramp on the huge blocked, 
marble floor, the careless speech of visitors, the 
rain pouring through the open dome and the gen- 
eral unfitness of things with no regular ordained 
service, speak otherwise. And it is not a church. 
It is not a pantheon. For it lacks the represen- 
tations of the earth 's greatest men ; and yet, it is 
to us all, a gem. It is a sacred place. 
Here we worshij) in a human sense the 
immortal "Raphael," whose bones lie in 
the third open chapel from the door in a mar- 
velous tomb. In 1833 the tomb was opened, the 
identity of the remains proven, and a cast taken 
of the skull and hand. 

Also Victor Emanuel was laid here in a beau- 
tiful tomb Jan. 20, 1878. And, too, the lately 
murdered King Humbert, of Italy, was entombed 
here August 9, 1900. 



158 EUROPE. 

The frescoes are very scarce, the sculptures 
very few. But one stands over Raphael's tomb. 
It was his precious gift to this historic place. It 
is the "Madonna," executed by Lorenzette for 
him. 

We must say finis, but will continue in Rome. 

' ' Romans, countrymen, and lovers ! hear me 
for my cause, and be silent that you may hear. 

' ' Not that I loved Caesar less, but that I loved 
Rome more." 



Still in Mighty Rome, 



EUROPE. 161 

CHAPTER XIII. 

STILL IN MIGHTY ROME. 

Paul's Prison House— St. Maria Sopra Miner- 
va — St. Pietro in Vinculo — St. Maria Maggiore 
—St. PauVs-St. Peter's— The Vatican— The 
Catacombs- Appian Way. 

"The hand that rounded Peter's dome, 
And groined the aisles of Christian Rome, 
Wrought in a sad sincerity ; 
Himself from God he could not flee ; 
He builded better than he knew; 
The conscious stone to beauty grew." 

IN this city we are sharply reminded, by sacred 
writ, that the majestic divine, scholastic mas- 
ter, St; Paul, had many struggles, contentions 
and imprisonments. And so, much of sacred 
story has here its center. While in prison here 
the first time, about 62 or 63, Paul wrote the 
Philippians, the Colossians and Ephesians. Sec- 
ond Timothy and the epistle to the Hebrews were 
written from Rome, and likely while Paul was 
dungeoned here the last time. Rome was Paul's 
enemy. It was the place to him dear, also, from 
the mighty outpourings of divine wisdom as well. 
It was a city which he did not hesitate to attack, 
and trust the divine hand to work out His own 
glory and Paul's secure safety. It is here that 



162 EUROPE. 

impulsive and aggressive Peter was crucified, 
head downwards. We have marked some of 
these points. It is a privilege to be in Rome and 
tread reverently over these places of past hero- 
ism. But we must now turn to our continued 
letter. 

Rome is a city of churches. They contain much 
of its best art and sculpture. But one Gothic 
Catholic church is found here. 
■ St. Maria Sopra Minerva is builded in sight of 
the temple of Minerva and contains many things 
of interest. In the first chapel at the right 
stands the baptismal font of Baciccio. Beyond 
is the chapel of the "Annunciation," which was 
designed by Maderno and is richly decorated and 
very graceful. The altar pictures are from An- 
gelico's pupils. "The Last Supper" by Bacic- 
cio is one of this group. At the left of the high 
altar stands Michael Angelo 's famous ' ' Christ, ' ' 
with drapery very modern. On the opposite 
side stands St. John the Baptist, by Obici. In 
the corridor leading to the church are several 
monuments of cardinals. The structure is an- 
cient, neat, airy, light, and altogether presents 
a pleasant view. 

Saint Peter in Chains, built in 442, but re- 
stored in 1705, has three aisles, twenty Doric col- 
umns of Greek marble and two of granite which 
support the center arch. Here in the right aisle 



EUROPE. 1G3 

as you enter is the celebrated masterpiece of 
statuary, ^' Moses," in sitting posture, by Michael 
Angelo. It is said to be the best sculpture in all 
the world. But it is laughable to see the imita- 
tion of "Moses" on one of the fountains of the 
city. The unsuccessful effort warns us to be- 
ware of imitations. But here we saw the chains 
which are said to have bound Peter. But tradi- 
tion makes many boasts here, and this is not a 
day of traditions, but facts. But these are kept 
in a special closet, carefully guarded, and help to 
make this place important to tourists. 

St. Maria Maggiore was built in 432 and was 
enriched with marble and stuccos, the front hav- 
ing been restored by Benedict XIV. The two 
orders of columns are first Ionic and then Corin- 
thian. It has three aisles and 36 Ionic columns 
of white marble. It contains a beautiful statue 
of Pope Leo, by Guidi. But the ceiling of this 
church is the pride of Rome, and a lasting joy 
to all Americans. It is of fine gilt, made from 
the first gold ever sent over from America by 
Christopher Columbus. He sent it to Ferdinand 
and Isabella. They presented it to Pope Alex- 
andria for this purpose. It was very delightful 
to hear the guide explain this to a man with a 
soft hat, and then to have him ask you if you 
were not an American. ''Backsheesh, eh?" 

The fine American church covering one of the 



164 EUROPE. 

central and principal corners in the city, makes 
an imposing appearance in Catholic Rome. Yon 
wonder how it was ever erected there. All at 
once you feel at home. And looking back upon 
the Methodist and all other friends of the insti- 
tution you thank everyone for every penny of 
self-sacrifice given to this noble structure. And 
you prize more than ever the faithfulness of the 
missionaries as well as their sagacity. It is doing 
the work assigned it, and is bound to revolution- 
ize more rapidly than in any other way, the old 
stoic Catholicism of Italy and Europe. It gives 
Protestants a sure footing. It commands the 
respect of the Romans. 

St. Paul's Church, founded by Constantine, 
rebuilt by Yalentinan II., Theodosius and 
Arcadius, burned in the year 1823, Leo II. or- 
dered it to be rebuilt and made Poletti the archi- 
tect, who with some others, brought the great 
building of Greek columns to completion. The 
bell tower of travertine, its northerly facade of 
mosaic, with figures seven metres high ; the pedi- 
ment containing the *' Saviour on the Throne," 
and seated at the base, St. Peter and St. Paul, 
the frieze where it represented the Divine Lamb 
and some sheep, etc., remind one of its greatness. 
And here we must leave it, referring the reader 
to Piale's book for special study. 

St. Peter's is the church of Rome. It needs 



EUROPE. 165 

hours of careful writing to give it decent cour- 
tesy in description. "We cannot take time nor 
space. The approach is most imposing. Great 
colonnades with hundreds of columns open to 
you in shape of a horse-shoe and on beyond on 
the toe-calk of the shoe you see massive steps 
leading up to its great, grand entrance. It must 
be forty rods from where you enter the bending, 
four-rowed colonnade ere you reach the steps 
which lead up to it. 

It stands on the old circus ground of Nero. 
The arena could not afford him enough of cruel- 
ty, so the tyrant had private grounds, and mas- 
sacred here thousands of Christians. In a grotto 
underneath lie their bodies and St. Peter's re- 
mains are deposited with them. Will Nero and 
his Christian martyrs have justice shown them? 
Will the resurrection of the just and unjust be 
the same ? Is there punishment for the wicked ? 
Is there mercy for the just? These are some of 
the questions that came pouring through my 
mind as I approached the place. 

In memory of Peter, Constantine built here a 
temple or Basillica with five aisles, and in the 
15th century it approached ruin. Nicholas V. 
decided that for the prince of apostles he would 
build a magnificent temple. He trusted the work 
to Rossellion and Leon Batt. This Pope died 
and the work was passed on to several others 



166 EUROPE. 

until it came into the hands of the world's won- 
derful designer, Michael Angelo, who adopted as 
a model the Greek cross and designed the cupola, 
likely after the Pantheon of Rome; for it is of 
the same dimensions as the Pantheon. Angelo 
did not live to complete it. C. Maderno finished 
it in the form of a Latin cross. The facade and 
portico are by Maderno, and are a work of no 
meagre architect. This building was 176 years 
in building, cost $50,000,000, requires $30,000 a 
year to keep it up, covers an area of 240,000 
square feet. The facade is of travertine with eight 
columns, four pilasters of the Corinthian order, 
seven galleries, six niches and an attic terminat- 
ed, by thirteen colossal statues representing 
Jesus and the Apostles. This, when lighted by 
5,000 torches on the evening of Easter, must pro- 
duce a most beautiful effect. 

The celebrated fresco called the "Boat of St. 
Peter's" meets you at the entrance of the church. 
On the bronze doors you find a representation of 
the tradition of Christ handing over the keys to 
St. Peter. The interior presents three naves 613 
feet long and the transept is 417 feet wide. The 
middle nave is 82 feet wide and 142 feet high. 
There are four magnificent arches on each side of 
the principal nave. These are profusely decor- 
ated. The pavement is of inlaid marble of dif- 
ferent designs. Just before you reach the con- 



EUROPE. 167 

fessional you find a statue in bronze of St. Peter. 
Beneath the dome of the confessional you find 
the tomb of St. Peter. 

In the chapel of Piety you find the Madonna 
with the dead Chriat in her lap, by Michael 
Angelo, and many others we cannot mention. 

In the Sebastine, you find on the altar the 
martyrdom of St. Sebastian in fine mosaic. In 
the chapel of the Holy Sacrament you find the 
picture representing the Trinity. 

The Gregorian chapel was dedicated to the 
Virgin and was designed by Michael Angelo. 
Here lies the body of Gregory, and here is found 
a beautiful picture, "Michael, the Archangel," 
from Guido Keni. The chair of St. Peter, the 
adornment designed by Michael Angelo, is be- 
hind the confessional. Four gigantic statues in 
bronze bear up a bronze chair Avithin which is 
enclosed the supposed chair of St. Peter. 

On the left we find the Clementine choir. And 
then the Presentation and Baptismal font chapels 
which contain elegant frescoes, statues, tombs 
and sacred ornaments of untold worth. 

Down in the crypts are numerous relics and 
treasures. The Vatican Sacristy is elegant. 
The cupola is marvelous in its altitude, its decor- 
ation. It enchants the eye. It expands the 
mind. It lifts the soul. Forgetting the earth, 
we rise to heights sublime and sit down sixteen 



168 EUROPE. 

in number in the little bronze ball, and our won- 
der is complete and a thought of satisfaction 
sweeps over us. 

''But thou of temples old, or altars new, 
Standest alone — with nothing like to thee." 

''Enter, its grandeur overwhelms thee not; 
And why ? it is not lessened ; but thy mind. 
Expanded by the genius of the spot, 
Has grown colossal and can only find 
A fit abode wherein appears enshrined 
Thy hopes of immortality ; and thou 
Shalt one day, if found worthy, so defined. 
See thy God face to face, as thou dost now 
His Holy of Holies, nor be blasted by his 
brow. ' ' 

The Vatican is so full of chapels, filled with so 
many beautiful pieces of statuary and painting 
that here I must curb my pen, lest I tire you. 
This was commenced in 352, when the Pope built 
a house where once stood the house of Nero, the 
hero in ' ' Quo Vadis. ' ' Charlemagne in 800 and 
Celestine III. 1192, pushed on the work, and it 
became the official home of the Popes at the 
return of Gregory XI. from exile in Avignon, 
1377. The halls and buildings were extended 
from time to time to the castle by Alexander V. 
and his successor. The Popes availed themselves 
of such men as Raphael, Logori, Dom, Portuna 
and Bemini and added to the pile of buildings 



EUROPE. 169 

until it has become a stupendous palace. It has 
over 4,000 rooms, eight grand staircases, not in- 
cluding the ' ' golden stairs, ' ' 200 small stair cases 
and twenty court yards. 

We will now open the immense bronze doors 
and view the magnificent equestrian statue of 
Constantine, and now the royal golden stairs are 
at our feet. Turning to the right we enter the 
Sistine Chapel, built by Sixtus IV., 1473, from 
the designs of Pintelli. Michael Angelo depicted 
on the vault ' ' The Creation, " ' ' The Fall, " ' ' The 
Deluge," ''The Brazen Serpent," ''Punishment 
of Haman," "David and Goliath," "Judith 
and Holof ernes, ' ' with the work of many worthy 
artists in between is finished with a climax of the 
"Last Judgment," by Michael Angelo. 

The Sala Regia is fine and the Pauline Chapel 
by Paul III. follows, which contains the six 
grand frescoes by Michael Angelo. But these 
are much damaged. They represent the "Con- 
version of St. Paul, ' ' and the ' ' Crucifixion of St. 
Peter," etc. 

We now skip by five fine chapels, and at the 
"Stanza," we enter four large halls decorated 
with large frescoes by Raphael and his pupils. 
"The Dispute" is probably his chief work here. 
In the Hall of Signature we find Raphael's 
' ' Theology, ' ' or Dispute of the Holy Sacrament, 
also "Parnassus with the Muses." The Hall of 



170 EUROPE. 

Heliodorus contains the finest frescoes in the 
world. That from which the room takes its 
name represents Heliodorus driven from the 
temple for sacrilege. This was designed by 
Raphael just before his death and had to be fin- 
ished by his pupils. Here in the Loggie of the 
Vatican are forty-eight Old Testament subjects 
by Raphael. 

The gallery of pictures formed by Pius YIII. 
contains a valuable collection. Among these are 
' ' St. Jerome, ' ' by Leonardo da Vinci ; ' ' St. John 
the Baptist," by Guercino; ''The Annuncia- 
tion, " " Adoration of the Kings, ' ' and the ' ' Pre- 
sentation, ' ' and the one celebrated ' ' Transfigura- 
tion" upon Mt.- Tabor by Raphael. 

The Library of the Vatican is quite large, con- 
taining 130,000 books. The Hall of the Greek 
Cross contains the two magnificent colossal 
statues from Egypt of red porphyry. Then there 
is the hall of the muses, of animals, of statues, of 
busts, of cabinets, and of masks, and on and on, 
almost without number. One could not take in 
what these chapels contain in a life time. What 
a grand covering of cheer these old halls seem 
to be for this awful place. They are so elevat- 
ing, we forget about the blood of thousands, 
staining the soil for fathoms deep beneath, -who 
fell by the tyranny of Nero. But yet the blood 
of Christ speaketh better things, brighter scenes. 



EUROPE. 171 

and a complete absorption of the guilt of the 
soul. 

''All things that strike ennoble — from the depths 
Of Egypt, from the classic fields of Greece, 
Her graves, her temples— all things that inspire 
Wonder; delight!" 

The Catacombs are one of the freaks of the 
early Eomans, but the separate ones comprise 
a commonality such that if you have seen one you 
have seen all. I visited three, and it was time 
well spent. Two of the smaller ones were the 
tombs of Scipio and Sebastian. They contain 
depths of numerous burial places. But they 
lack steps, good walls and have their descent by 
steep grade. There is little regularity and they 
are not kept in repair. 

But the Catacombs of St. Callisto are the 
largest. They are laid out like the streets of a 
modern city, every tomb in its place, and all the 
place is crowded with tombs both for adults and 
children. Fourteen Popes and 17,000 Christians 
are 'buried here. St. Cecelia has a beautiful 
marble sarcophagus, with elegantly raised relief 
figures surrounding it, of angelic nature. On 
the cover is her large reclining statue, clean and 
bright, by the master sculptor. In all of the 
tombs are twelve illustrations of the Sacrament, 
in very crude red and blue penciling, but thou- 



172 EUROPE. 

sands of years old, they are yet quite distinct in 
outline. 

This city of tombs is three stories high and 
covers an indefinite area running up into the 
acres. The early Christians, when persecuted, 
assembled to celebrate the mysteries of religion 
and to dedicate themselves in prayer. They 
buried their dead and deposited their martyrs 
in large spaces made in the walls on purpose, 
and near each body in the excavation was found 
the instrument of torture by which they were 
forced to cruel and innocent death. 

Perhaps a moment will make clear to you the 
shape and location of the tombs. Imagine your- 
self by the side of a stone wall seven feet high 
on either side, with three feet of walking space ; 
the walls of division for a large chapel tomb for 
a family divide these spaces every seven feet. 
At the bottom is a space five and one-half feet 
long, one and one-half feet high, and two feet 
deep, sealed with a marble slab inscribed and fig- 
ured. Above this another and another until all 
the space is filled with bodies. This covers acres 
of ground, and is three stories deep, one city 
above another. 

The largest tombs of wealthy people, which are 
made of finest marble, grandly covered with 
figures in relief, lie in one of these chapels ; their 
hair and ornaments appear and they are yet un- 



EUROPE. 173 

known. But some genius will yet discover their 
names. For we live in an age when, if one sets 
himself determinedly to find out things, some- 
how, after hard, continuous labor, it springs into 
life and definite knowledge. 

I was on the gaudy ' ' Appian Way ' ' with a fine 
turnout, one afternoon, in solitary lordship. The 
very stones beneath my carriage wheels were as 
gold, and the stucco walls at my right and left 
were as enclosed drapery; the golden sun was 
gilding everything with brightness and a glowing 
warmth. The fresh breeze, freighted with 
enough of moisture, and tinged with enough of 
the Arctic to give one vigor and erectness, was a 
princely pleasure for one half day. One emi- 
nent thing that met our eyes was the little stone 
church called ''Quo Vadis/' from which the 
famous book was named. The English people 
are just awakened to the value of this book and 
are reading it in many of their homes. 

' ' A talent is perfected in solitude ; a character 
in the stream of the world. ' ' 

''I have a room wherein no one enters save I 
myself alone ; 
There sits a blessed memory on the throne. 
There my life centers." 



Naples, 



EUROPE. 177 

CHAPTER XIV. 

NAPLES. 

THE trip from Rome to Naples was very 
slow, winding up and down the moun- 
tains, but the scenery is full of changes 
and delights. I was happily located at Parker's 
Hotel, on the sublime heights of Naples, above 
fever or pest. Here we were highly entertained, 
and by their freedom and cordial welcome, you 
knew you were an honored American guest. 

At the table I met four American ladies from 
St. Louis and there seemed to be a kindred spirit 
at once. This I can say, American girls honor 
Americans when they meet abroad. But as soon 
as dinner was over, a "bon journey" was the 
traveler's farewell salute, for I left the next 
morning for Brindisi ere they could see daylight. 
But now music of tambourine, guitar, banjo, 
mandolin, violin and voices were heard in the 
spacious landing halls and parlors. Out of the 
dining hall the large number of guests mean- 
dered, and for one straight hour we were enter- 
tained by natives in costume and movements 
grand. Their singing was Italian songs, in Ital- 
ian style, and yet very good vocal harmony. 

But this first night and day in Naples I did 



178 EUROPE. 

not gather a very good opinion of the people or 
city. It was rainy. The cabmen tormented me 
to death in teasing me to ride. They cracked 
their whips loudly on every side; they stop on 
the street and banter with each other and your- 
self on prices. Their horses are little runts^ but 
fitted for the hills and stones of Naples. Every 
child wanted backsheesh. And coaching men on 
the street wanted to run you into every mean 
hole in the city. Some of the women on the 
street were very solicitous and I wondered 
where the modesty and dignity of my own moth- 
er and friends could have been so beautifully 
fostered as to have evoluted to such complete 
womanhood. America has her evils, but it is 
on the incline, not on the descent. The true are 
brave, the untrue are marked by public scorn. 
The low are lifted by the Christian counsels, 
which act as our Saviour spoke, when he said, 
"Let him that is without sin cast the first 
stone. ' ' 

But come to find out, this was a holiday at 
Naples. Every day is not like this. And I was 
very glad to visit the place again in April, on my 
return, for three beautiful, sunshiny days, and 
find the atmosphere much better morally as well 
as the city itself. 

I found many views that were glorious and 
grand. The Heights are simply elegant, with 



EUROPE. 179 

the coiling roads leading one up higher and 
higher among magnificent hotels, grand resi- 
dences along an electric street car line, with a 
most charming view over the nicely sheltered 
bay of Naples. Then to watch from the heights 
the unceremonious belching forth and the cur- 
ious smoke of Vesuvius, one seems never to tire. 
The old convent, now a castle, at the summit of 
the city, always charms the eye. The Museum 
has a grand display of things of wide interest, 
the Aquarium has some of the rarest specimens 
of fish I ever witnessed. Vesuvius and the climb 
to the crater are ventures one delights in. Pom- 
peii is a wonder before you have seen the ruins 
in Egypt and Palestine. The ruins of this city 
hold in their wreck so much of history and story 
and tragedy that we visit them and hate to turn 
away. Pompeii has a museum of curiosities, and 
a depth of study in its excavations, but there is 
not much variety or grandeur in its walls or tem- 
ples. No one who sees Naples should fail to see 
Pompeii. And no one who sails the water's 
coast of Naples should fail to see Capri and its 
rainbow cavern. 

Naples, like other Italian cities, has some fine 
buildings and avenues. But its streets for the 
most part are narrow, dirty and poorly popu- 
lated. 



180 EUROPE. 

' ' In the desert a fountain is springing, 
In the wide waste there still is a tree, 
And a bird in the solitude singing. 
Which speaks to my spirit of thee." 

"Knowest thou a land where the lemon trees 

bloom. 
Where gold orange glows in the thickest gloom, 
Where a wind ever soft from blue heaven blows 
And the groves are of laurel and myrtle and 

rose ? ' ' 



Greece the Mother of Arts 
Athens. 



GREECE. 183 

CHAPTER XY. 

GREECE THE MOTHER OF ARTS— ATHENS. 

'^ Athens, the eye of Greece, mother of arts 
And eloquence. ' ' 

^'The olive grove of Academe, 
Plato's retirement, where the Attic bird 
Trills her thick warbled notes the summer 

long." 

IT may be in place to mention a few facts of 
, Greece. All of Greece embraces only 19,945 
square miles, about the same area as Vermont 
and New Hampshire combined. Along the coast 
snow is seldom seen and the winters are of very 
short duration. The storms are rain and wind. 
The soil is very mountainous and stony, and for 
the most part untillable ; yet they raise the finest 
of olives, oranges, lemons, figs, bananas and 
grapes for wine. Many bees are kept, and an 
abundance of beautiful honey is found every- 
where. 

Here we find a population of 2,000,000 of peo- 
ple, 500,000 of whom reside in Athens and vicin- 
ity. So Athens, Piraeus, Corinth and a few 
other towns constitute its inhabitants. The in- 
land is so mountainous that no one but a few 
old soldiers, clad in their war dress of white 
tights, with short, white skirts, being supported 
by the government, dare attempt to eke out an 



184 OREECE. 

existence here. They raise now and then a stray 
lamb or chicken and bring it to market alive, 
with its legs tied, strung over their shoulders. 
It seems most crude and cruel, but this is the way 
pigs, calves, turkeys, etc., are brought to market, 
in Piraeus and Athens at least. 

The history of Athens is the history of Greece. 
And it contains much that is most emphatic in 
history, art, philosophy and science, poetry and 
war. Socrates, Plato, Pericles, Demosthenes, 
Themistocles, Homer, Sappho and Athena would 
rival the world almost. And thus their history, 
after an evolution of nearly 3,000 years, seems to 
us a miracle. 

When sculpture and painting and oratory 
were the roads to success, then the men of Greece 
pursued this line of work to the bitter end. Now 
that business and intrigue are the road to suc- 
cess, the Grecians push their way unsullied and 
unscrupulous. 

The Old Stadium of the Grecian games is re- 
ceiving a thorough and unique restoring, through 
the generous gift of M. George Avevoff, an old 
Grecian, who elsewhere made his fortune. Here 
during the ancient Athenian festivities, the 
Olympic games were held before a crowd of 
60,000 people. 

Two long, parallel hills, meeting at one end, 
form this natural amphitheatre, around which 



GREECE. 



185 



in regular order the wide, marble seats are build- 
ed, leaving in the center the play ground. The 
Stadium was placed in Athens in the year 350 
B. C. by Lycnrgus, the great orator. The games 
for many years were not held here, and this 
Olympic field seemed to decay. In 1896, the 
famous games in which onr own American boys 
took part and carried off the majority of the 
prizes and glory, seemed to inspire a new spirit 
and restore the athletic soul. And now every 
four years they have the international games, 
and every four years the national games alter- 
nately, giving thus an extensive exhibition every 
two years. The rally of 1896 called forth the 
spirit of one of the old residents and friends of 
Greece, and now many thousands of dollars are 
being given for the renovation and complete 
repair of the amphitheatre in solid marble. The 
old sports, consisting of discus throwing, weight 
pulling, lifting and wrestling are made modern 
and adapted to the twentieth century needs. 

The Temple of Jove comes next in regular 
order as we are winding around from the Stad- 
ium to the Acropolis. At a remote period, the 
Athenians built a temple to Jupiter Olympus, 
which, according to Thucydides, was situated on 
the south of the citadel. The temple was Ionic, 
builded by Dacallion of Thessaly, who was son of 
Prometheus, who by tradition, was warned of 



186 GREECE. 

Jove and miraculously saved from a deluge in his 
own boat, erected this temple in Jove's honor, 
530 B. C. The building now presents a few 
peristyle columns which give the visitor an idea 
of what the building must have been. It was 
359x178 feet, having a double file of sixteen 
columns on the side and triple eight columns on 
the ends. These are fully twenty feet high and 
six feet in diameter at the base, and of- solid 
marble. This is a magnificent relic of the an- 
cients' devotion to the unknown gods. 

We reach now the Triumphal Gate of Hadrian, 
Its beautiful Corinthian columns are fallen, but 
inscriptions written on the support of the pillars 
mark the division of the city of Theseus from that 
of Hadrian, and serve to recall the many noble 
deeds of Hadrian of Athens. 

To the memory of Lysicrates or ''Lamp of 
Demosthenes, ' ' we come next. It is in the street 
of Tripods at the northern end of the Acropolis. 
Here it is that the victories were gloriously cele- 
brated. And in whatever combat they strove, 
in dancing, music, wrestling, oratory, they had 
dedicated here a Tripod. Offerings were some- 
times put on houses or on monuments, but Lysic- 
rates' monument is the only one left in this 
place and was erected 355 B. C. by himself. The 
architecture and sculpture of this is very excel- 
lent and on the top is an urn which used to be 



GREECE. 1 87 

called the ''Lamp of Demosthenes." This is 
an octagonal marble temple and is about twelve 
feet high and five feet in diameter. 

The Theater of Dionysius, or ''Bacchus," we 
next approach just under the brow of the Acrop- 
olis. The ancients here sang songs and drank 
their wines, entering into untold festivities and 
debauches. This theatre was begun by Pisistra- 
tus, and was only finished by Lycurgus 120 years 
later, 336 B. C. 

It is a circle, seated with poric stone and could 
accommodate 3,000 people. The stones are in- 
scribed on the inside of the circle with the names 
of deities, and priests worshiped there. The re- 
liefs are facing the orchestra and represent 
Satyrs, and immense marble blocks sustain the 
sides, making a wall no less than five feet thick. 

In this temple are the relief statues of ' ' Atlas ' ' 
bearing the world on his shoulder, and the statue 
of the clown, or fool, who was always present at 
their theatricals. Tragedies and comedies were 
largely attended here and in history Aeschylus, 
Sophocles, Euripides and Aristophanes have 
their names largely represented as actors as well 
as attendants. 

The Aesculapian Temple is near at hand, and 
here this hero and ancient physician was wor- 
shiped, and serpents and symbols of a new life 
were largely represented. 



188 GREECE. 

The Odeum of theHerodes lies now in our way, 
a temple built in honor of Regilla, his deceased 
wife. Herod amassed great wealth for his times 
and generously bestowed it on his own house and 
the public buildings in Athens. This structure 
is of massive marble blocks, with mosaic floor, 
having a diameter of 240 feet. It was covered 
with a roof of cedar, and used for song and 
theatricals. It contained most elegant statues 
of Herod and Regilla, which are now broken and 
extinct. 

The Acropolis is the highest part of the town, 
as the word signifies, and is in elevation 150 feet. 
It is an immense, almost solid rock of limestone. 
It was the whole city, or nearly, at one time, and 
was always, as now, the defense of the town. All 
its sides are abrupt by nature, except one, and 
this is made so by a mighty wall. The approach, 
propylaeum, was formerly 160 feet wide. Pericles 
put here a magnificent structure, forming a safe 
and divided gateway. Five gates were here for 
entrance. The center one for the royalty, one 
on either side for the dignitaries of the common 
people, and the others on the outside for the 
servile class. Six Ionic columns, double-rowed, 
elegantly divided the entrance. 

On through these gates, and you find another, 
fitted out with six immense columns of Doric 
style. This entrance, with its gorgeous steps 



GREECE. 189 

leading upward, is imposing and royal in its 
grandeur. 

The royal entrance passed by the temple of 
Athena on the right and Erectheum on the left, 
just as you pass the gateway and enter upon the 
broad, rocky platform of the Acropolis. 

The Parthenon stands at the landing, impos- 
ing, and taking the chief place of the citadel. It 
is built of large blocks of Pentelie marble care- 
fully laid, not one of its foundations even to-day 
are an inch from plumb line. It is 227 feet in 
length and 110 feet in width and its columns six 
feet at the base, rise 34 feet high. The columns 
are Doric, forming a corridor, and number six- 
teen on each side and eight at the ends. But at 
both extremities there is an inner row of six col- 
umns, rising from the end of the cella, and form- 
ing with their prolonged walls the first entrance. 

The Parthenon was erected by Pericles and 
finished in the year 436 B. C. Enough of it now 
remains to fill the mind with wonder and give 
an unerring idea of its form, appearance and 
grandeur. It cost nearly $3,000,000. This 
structure was cut into two divisions, the lesser 
called the episthodome, where was kept the pub- 
lic treasury. The other part has for many years 
been destroyed, but was supported by sixteen 
gigantic columns. The friezes on the ends repre- 
sent the races, faces of heroes, gods, ceremonies 



190 GREECE. 

of the temple, battles, chariots in race, etc. In 
the center stood the colossal statue of beautiful 
and great Minerva, covered with gold and ivory, 
the temple being dedicated sublimely to that 
goddess, who was the tutelary deity of the Athe- 
nians. 

The Parthenon remained in good repair until 
1687, when occurred the Venetian siege. Then 
a huge magazine in the center of the building 
tore its roof and laid low a great part of this 
costly temple. Then they began to carry away 
its contents. Lord Elgin taking 200 feet of the 
frieze to the British Museum as a later steal. 

One is not disappointed in this historic place. 
It is better than the descriptions, grander than 
its embellished pictures by artists, more historic 
than many books. It is 'more sublime than the 
goddess' son of its merits. 

The Erectheum is a building decidedly irreg- 
ular, but elegant and grand in a marked degree. 
The perfection of its outlines has been the ad- 
miration of all ages and it continues to-day to 
charm the eye of the beholder, and deck the 
collection of views of the camera fiend. The 
date of its erection is unknown, but it was most 
likely commenced between the Persian and 
Peloponnesian wars, and was burned by the Per- 
sians and left in its original form. But this 
present temple w^as gracefully builded on the 



GREECE. 191 

first foundation and was finished 408 B. C. One 
thing peculiar to this temple is its three porches, 
graced by three colonnades, finely pillared and 
decorated, looking in different directions from 
the border walls of the Acropolis. 

The part forming Athena Polias is most im- 
portant, since it contains the wooden statue of 
the goddess Athena in a sitting posture. No 
statue in all Athens is so venerated with both 
age and worship as this stupendous, charming 
figure. It has a majesty surrounding it which 
in part explains its great attractive power, since 
no one knows where the statue came from. 
Alas ! How many on earth might be wonders if 
mystery might surround their origin ! 

Here the sacred lantern of eternal light was 
kept planted in the plan of Athena's olive tree 
and now luxuriously grows the olive branch 
from the old root before the perishing statue. 

The northern portico is beautiful, indeed, 
graced with columns of peristyle virgins stand- 
ing in different postures, some few of which have 
been restored. The third entrance on the south 
is composed of figures of marble women, dressed 
in long garments, bearing up the immense roof. 
These carry pitchers of water during the Pan- 
thenea procession, representing the daughters of 
Me tics, whose custom it was to bring parasols 
^nd pitchers of water to these sacred festivals 



192 GREECE. 

These six caryatides represent the most beauti- 
ful women of Caria. 

The sacred olive tree above mentioned was 
found in the division of the temple of Pandros- 
sos, and marks the historic strife of Athena and 
Poseidon for possession and rule of the city. 

Poseidon offered a flowing fountain as his love 
for the city, and Athena offering the evergreen 
olive-tree of life^ as a token of her love, gained 
the crown which, though imaginative, still lives 
in the hearts of the Athenians. Her statue was 
built up into the vault seventy feet high and her 
long spear and helmet could be seen at great 
distances, to remind the people of their protect- 
ing goddess. 

The interior of the Acropolis was filled with 
innumerable statues of gods and goddesses, and 
every corner contained the monument of some 
great and royal deity. Pericles, visiting the 
city, exclaimed in his royal pride, ''0, Athens, 
divine city of our glory. ! ' ' 

From this majestic, god-like summit, one be- 
holds the whole city at his feet, sees the swaying 
crowds course the main thoroughfares or wander 
in its crooked lanes. You behold its modern 
university with pride, its fine hotels, the presi- 
dent's palace, and the late palatial homes of 
Greece 's moneyed men, with pleasure. You look 
upon the old and common clay hut of the major- 



GREECE. 193 

ity of its poor and comfortless population, glad 
to know the truth, though it quells the city's 
present glory in your loyal estimation. 

"The isles of Greece, the isles of Greece, 
Where burning Sappho loved and sung, 
Where grew the arts of love and peace, 
Where Delos rose, and Phoebus sprung, 
Eternal summer gilds thee yet. 
But all except their sun it set." 

' ' And where are they ? And where art thou, 
My country ? On the voiceless shore 
The heroic lay is tuneless now— . 
The heroic bosom beats no more ! 
And must thy lyre so long divine, 
Degenerate into hands like mine ? ' ' 

'* 'Tis something in the dearth of fame 
Though linked among a fettered race, 
To feel at least a patriot 's shame. 
Even as I sing, suffuse my face ; 
For what is left the poet here ? 
For Greeks a blush— for Greece a tear." 

' ' Must we but weep o 'er days more blest ? 
Must we blush? Our fathers bled. 
Earth renders back from out thy breast 
A remnant of our Spartans dead ! 
Of the three hundred grant but three. 
To make a new Thermopylae ! ' ' 

The Areopagus, or "Mars Hill," from 
whence Paul gave that wonderful address, which 
of all sermons is most eloquent, opportune and 
fitting, is now opposite the citadel's gate, and 
north of the Acropolis a stone's throw. Here 



194 GREECE. 

the mighty Jew and transformed Gentile was 
ordered by the judges to appear and speak for 
himself as to his new doctrine of Christ, and the 
. miracles which had canght the people of Athens 
and secured a few followers. And he spoke as 
if sent from God, boldly, wisely, tactfully. Acts 
17:22-31: ''Ye men of Athens, I perceive that 
in all things ye are too superstitious. For, as I 
passed by and beheld your devotions, I found an 
altar with this inscription, 'To the unknown 
god, ' whom, therefore, ye ignorantly worship ; 
him I declare unto you." 

I climbed the stone steps over which he had 
passed and stood in the place so sacred to the 
memory of all Bible students, where Paul gave 
the gospel in reply to the Sophists of Athens. 
And places are nothing. Associations make 
places. This is also the point where the Persians 
attacked the citadel. It also served as the camp 
of the Amazons while they were attacking the 
fortress of Theseus. And yet it is only a steep, 
bold Pock of hard granite, of irregular shape, 
and just as nature formed it save some ugly 
steps leading to it. It contains a surface of one 
acre perhaps, and here the Athenian women 
climbed up and spread their clothes to dry on the 
very summit as I was going away. It is thought 
nothing of here. It is treated as a common 
field, with not even a wall or fence to protect it. 



GREECE. 195 

But its commonness made the place seem more 
beautiful to me. It represents the real. 

Near here is the Pnyx hill which bears the 
ruins of an ancient forum where Demosthenes 
delivered his speeches of eloquence and wisdom. 
The famous platform is still to be seen and con- 
sists of a stone block eleven feet square, and 
along" the sides of this hill are the cave prisons 
of Socrates, in which he is said to have been im- 
prisoned, and guards keep the doors and shield 
the crude but sacred places of the man's suf- 
fering. 

The Temple of Theseus is below the Acropolis, 
down in the border of the city dwellings, on 
Gramecus Hill. It was built in this hallowed 
place by the Athenians out of their respect for 
this god hero. Centuries after his death his 
ashes were brought to this beautiful, strong tem- 
ple, deposited, the doors walled up and none are 
able to enter since. The temple was builded 464 
B. C, and is magnificently well preserved with 
its columns, ' friezes, domes and prodromes. 

The metopes are covered with warlike deeds of 
Theseus and Hercules. The latter has in these 
the first place according to the constant wish of 
Theseus towards his dear friend. 

It is carnival time in Athens now, the last of 
February. The people are preparing for onC 
grand promenade for each Sabbath, and on 



196 GREECE. 

every side you hear drums and tambourines and 
see flocks of girls and boys, young men and 
women, masked in all colors, of all kinds of cut 
and figured garments, false faces, formed for 
drill, preparatory to the Sunday jubilee march. 
Each night the dance halls are crowded, with 
masked and unmasked people dancing to the 
most hideous music, more poorly played, with 
little or no order anywhere. But crowds sit in 
the galleries and throw rolls of various brightly- 
tinted paper, decking and entangling their 
friends as they glide about in time ^ith the 
music. Athens is full of people for this tw^o 
weeks' religious carnival and you meet on every 
side masked couples and companies going to and 
fro, in and out of the restaurants, carrying out 
all things in high glee. 

Athens is fast becoming Americanized or 
Europeanized and Americans are at home in this 
city. Several Americans have stores here. The 
hotels are ' ' Anglican, ' ' and cater to the English 
almost exclusively. I found the ' ' Angleterre " 
a fine, home-like place, and the service was not 
only first-class, but English enlarged. I met 
here several newly-made friends from England, 
America and Scotland. These proved to be not 
only pleasant but very profitable in imparting 
knowledge and directing our sight-seeing. 

Among my newly-made acquaintances was an 



GREECE. 197 

American fellow in love, and vice versa, with an 
English maiden, who was attended by a widowed 
mother. They sat directly opposite, and when the 
tide was high they had no use for me and the 
fine English gentleman at the head of the table. 
But when the tide was out, as it always happens 
with such dead lovers, they had no use for each 
other, but fled to us for refuge from the embar- 
rassing silence. Well, I have learned from 
travel that one love-couple can furnish merri- 
inent for the whole crowd, and the crowd are 
delightfully fond of the entertainment. But 
' ' there are others ' ' who entertain themselves and 
furnish very little folly for the world 's watchful 
eye. 

"When love begins to sicken and decay, 

It useth an enforced ceremony. 

There are no tricks in plain and simple faith. ' ' 
''But love is blind, and lovers cannot see 

The petty follies that themselves commit. ' ' 



Constantinople, 



TURKEY. 201 

CHAPTER XVI. 

CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Voyage from Athens— Picture from the Sea- 
Stroll in Pera— Mosque of Saint Sophia— Cis- 
tern of a Thousand Columns — Hippodrome — 
Fountains— Oh elish of Theodoseus— Serpentine 
Column — Museum of Janissaries — Bazars — 
Museums — The Last Afternoon in Constantino- 
ple—The Pony Bide. 

THE voyage from Athens to this metropole 
city was full of interest although our 
ship fought gallantly with the seas for 
some thirty hours. 

We passed by the ancient and famous literary 
city of Rhodes so beautifully situated on the 
classic island. Ephesus was so far to our right 
that we could scarcely discern its outlines, but 
we were reminded of its Pauline scenes, the great 
''Diana of the Ephesians," and other historic 
imports. But with a glance, we were compelled 
to move on and could not anchor at Smyrna, 
because of the quarantine for the plague. We 
passed in good view of the important island of 
Patmos where John had his vision and w^rote the 
indisputable and miraculous book of Revelation. 
Then driving on in the midst of the storm we 
could see Mytelene, the birth-place and home of 



Sappho, the greatest of Grecian poetesses, and 
I thought of some of her wonderful songs of cour- 
age and love for her countrymen. The skies 
cleared somewhat as we entered the Dardanelles 
and came to Abydos, of which Leander and 
Byron had some strife, and the latter sang this 
humorous verse: — 

''If, in the month of dark December, 
Leander, who was nightly wont 
(What maid will not the tale remember) 
To cross the stream, broad Hellespont." 

' ' If , when the wintry tempest roared. 
He sped to Hero nothing loth, 
And thus of old thy current poured. 
Fair Venus, how I pity both. ' ' 

''For me, degenerate modern wretch, 
Though in the genial month of May, 
My dripping limbs I faintly stretch 
And think I 've done a feat to-day. ' ' 

"But since he crossed the rapid tide. 
According to the doubtful story. 
To woo— and Lord knows what beside. 
And swam for love as I for glory, ' ' 

" 'T'were hard to say who fared the best. 
Sad mortals ! thus the gods still plague you ; 
He lost his labor, I my jest. 
For he was drowned and I've the ague." 

Still on we swept as the drenching morning 
rain poured down in torrents upon the gay city 
of minarets and towers. Now we see the city 
noted for its approaching beauty in its several 



TURKEY. 203 

divisions, Stamboiil, Scutari, Galatia and Pera. 
Scutari is in Asia Minor, and presents a most 
imposing picture from the Bospliorus. You 
would imagine from its receding elevation and 
its towers, its forest of white, graceful minarets 
and imposing mosciues that you had reached the 
city of splendor and perhaps a modern Para- 
dise. But when you land in a pouring rain you 
think the cit}^ built on the slant of hills is a wash- 
pot of filth, a narrow-laned, packed sham of a 
city. You will continue your latter decision to 
a considerable degree even when the golden, sun 
has decked its minarets and shed its pure rays 
through the cracks of its wooden, out of plumb, 
unpainted homes. Yet some fine public build- 
ings stand in this improving city. 

After some hours of searching by physicians 
to see if any plague existed, we landed at Pera. 
''The Cooks" had to take time, but sent us 
through the custom house and passport office 
without a search or scarcely a look. A shilling 
saves dollars' worth of annoyance and delay 
here. Landed in a carriage with a gentleman 
born and brought up in the Transvaal of Africa, 
we rode in our carriage to our palace. I count- 
ed 150 yellow, grey, scavenger, scurvy canines 
on my way to the Bristol Hotel, three-quarters 
of a mile. All of the journey was a steep up- 
hill, down which narrow streets the water was 



204 TURKEY. 

pouring, as in a raceway. Reaching the main 
street on the top of the hill the scene was 
changed. Pera is European and many of its 
people are English and American. Its buildings 
— like its people— are modern, neat, convenient, 
and apace with the times. Here the foreign em- 
bassadors have their palaces and gardens, and 
they are not only numerous but make this part 
of the city real and undisappointing. The fine 
hotels look from this lofty point over the city 
with a panoramic scope. They afford comfort, 
light, large rooms, fine service, good food and 
pure air. 

Here we were situated on the second floor of 
the Bristol in its front room, which separated the 
rooms of the Transvaal friends who came from 
Athens with us. They had weeks to spend here 
for hours of my own, so although I felt comfort- 
able and much at home, I had no time for friend- 
ship 's golden hours. 

Indulging in the extravagance of a fine guide 
by the name of Joseph de Paruta, who in two 
days conducted me to every quarter and every 
important place in this immense city, founded in 
658 B. C. by Byzas, and largely continued and 
builded long after by Constantine, which now 
numbers nearly 1,000,000 in population. 

Pera, Stamboul, and Scutari are three towns 
quite distinct, situated on three promontories, 



TURKEY. 205 

which are separated by the Bosphorus, the Gold- 
en Horn and the Sea of Marmora, but together 
with Galatia, constitute the city of Constantino- 
ple. Scutari is almost exclusively populated by 
Mussulmans. Stamboul is on the European 
shore, south of the Golden Horn, on the spot of 
the ancient city of Byzantum, possesses a mixed 
population of Turks, Greeks and Armenians, 
among which Europeans are quite rapidly intro- 
ducing themselves. Pera lies on the European 
side of the Bosphorus and is the commercial 
banking establishment of the European com- 
merce. It contains the hotels, concert halls, con- 
sular bodies and European classes. These places, 
four in number, comprise this splendid, growing, 
and fast becoming cosmopolitan and modern 
city. The Sultan must soon let go his conserva- 
tive grip or his own young Musselmans will break 
his clenched fist and the Ottoman empire will be 
no more. 

A stroll in^Pera down Grand Rue de Pera, or 
Main street, is quite exhilarating to both body 
and mind, because of the ups and downs of the 
cobble stone pavement, and the jolting of the 
crowding passers-by. The beauty and modern 
growth of this particular street appeal to your 
intellectual tastes. The people treat you with 
the utmost cordiality and civility and in no way 
intrude upon your rights ; unless from some lack 



20G TURKEY. 

of training they forget to give you one-half of 
the road in passing. There is no danger in this 
city. One feels as safe as if in his own town. 
But caution may be wise, since freaks sometimes 
seem to sieze these people and they appear quite 
desperate. Here are beautiful homes, important 
shops, and opposite the Grand Hotel de Londres 
is the municipal garden of the Petits-Cham.ps, 
extending the whole length of the Mezalik street, 
called the boulevard of Petits-Champs. In this, 
amid well shaded and neatly arranged walks, 
rises a pavilion used as a theatre or coffee house, 
which would grace any city park. At the end 
of the garden is a wooden structure for summer 
theatricals. And from the beautiful terrace a 
vie'w of the Golden Horn, Stamboul and Kassim- 
Pasha bay brings all of the high life of Pera 
assemblies to notice. 

On this main street we find the famous Galatia 
Tower, once called the Tower of Christ, which, 
in climbing, one finds himself one .hundred and 
sixty feet high, in the observatory of the city. 
And the watchmen of the citadel here give the 
fire alarm at the first outbreak. A coffee house 
halfway up can serve you with fine Turkish 
coffee and seven other landings give you rest and 
pleasure in ascending. 

''The Sweet Waters of Europe," a charming 
valley extending to the Golden Horn from 



TURKEY. 207 

Khia-ghad-Khane, lie in the route. The beau- 
tiful kiosque of the Sultan, villas, groves of lux- 
urious foliage and flowers are along the way, and 
in summer steamers will take you the round trip 
for 50 per as in one and one-half hours. 

The cemeteries are much alike, and for the 
most part, irregular, old and moss covered. The 
tombs contain the most grotesque hieroglyphics, 
and the epitaphs would shock a sheik. Every 
person's occupation is illustrated by the carvings 
on the slab. These cemeteries are many, but a 
few years in the future will see this aggressive 
city extending over many acres of these poorly 
marked and ill-carved graves. 

The Mosque of St. Sophia followed next in 
order of sight-seeing. It presents a surprise, 
indeed. The keeper met us at the door with 
slippers, for none can enter bootclad, and we 
were ushered over the matting into the corridor, 
and thence into the great auditorium of prayer 
mats. Every person has his or her own mat 
spread on the spacious floor where they make 
their forehead pressure and humble body 
devotion as well as Mohammedan prayer. This 
temple is immense in its capacious space. Em- 
peror Justin commenced it in 531, and it was 
completed in the year 538. By seven years' 
labor of 100 architects, 100 master masons and 
10,000 assistants, supervised by the Emperor 



208 TURKEY. 

(under the instruction of an angel), for a fabu- 
lous sum of money, and the sacrifice of many pre- 
cious lives, this 180 foot central domed shrine 
was erected. 

It stands over an immense cistern. A bed for 
its foundation had to be built twenty-five feet 
deep. Its walls are of brick and maiiy of them 
are inscribed with this motto, ' ' God founded it ; 
God will bring it aid." The interior is covered 
with precious marble slabs, joined by iron 
clamps. The cornice and capitals are gilded. 
It contains 170 marble columns brought from 
every ancient temple in Europe and the East and 
they are of finest design and workmanship. One 
column is called the ''sweating column," being 
by its position and foundation in the cistern, 
always damp. Into a little hole in the side of 
this column the Musselmans put their fingers and 
they are forever healed and protected from dis- 
ease. In this superstitious place I put my hand 
and since I am no worse than usual. 

When Justinian had robbed the town and 
bankrupted his people in its completion, he 
shouted in its inauguration, ' ' Glory to God, who 
has judged me worthy of accomplishing this 
work; I have vanquished thee, 0, Solomon!" 

In the year 1453 at the moment of the conquest 
of Constantinople by the cruel Turks, many 
priests, women, children and men fled to this 



TURKEY. 209 

church for refuge. Suddenly Mohammed II. 
rode into the edifice on horseback, and alighting 
on the altar, cried : ' ' There is no God but God, 
and Mohammet is his prophet!" The people 
fled, the priest rushed out through one of the 
doors as if to escape with his life. This gate or 
doorway was immediately closed by stone secure- 
ly, and remains closed to-day. The place is 
guarded, and the Mohammedans believe if this 
should be opened the Christians would again 
enter and take possession of the city. But they 
will enter. I can see them coming now under 
the mighty sway of Christianity and the Chris- 
tian civilization and the all-possessing Christ. 
And this spot, on which Constantine in 325 
made the first edifice for Christians, will be the 
stronghold of our Christ, forever generaled by 
Jehovah's Son. Mark it! Twenty years will 
have seen the work well begun if not completed. 
Already the Musselmans are wavering under the 
Anglo-Saxon rapid stride of Christian enter- 
prise. Notwithstanding the prophecy, I am 
aware that four years ago in a few hours, 4,000 
Armenians were horribly butchered. But the 
young Musselmans are fatigued with the Sul- 
tan 's heavy hand against progress, and are ready 
almost in the present light to rise up against such 
oppression and superstition. The young men, 



210 TURKEY. 

with the rest of the world, are crying ''hands 
off," and ''progress enthroned." 

The Cistern with a Thousand and. One Col- 
umns is named Phyloxenus, from its builder, who 
constructed it under Constantine in the fourth 
century. It is now used as a shop for silk spin- 
ners. It has 224 columns joined in three shafts 
by sleeves with square marble capitals, set in fif- 
teen rows. This cistern could contain 400,000 
cubic feet of water, enough to supply 360,000 
souls for twelve days. The water filters down 
through the top of porous stone and afforded in 
the past fine, pure water for the city. But the 
present water supply is magnificently arranged 
from the Sea of Marmora. Many are the enor- 
mous cisterns, covering acres of ground, similar 
to this, which are now approached with great 
difficulty; but some are still in use, the water 
being drawn up through holes by buckets. 

The Hippodrome contains many things of in- 
terest and is supplied with numerous fountains 
for drinking water. The Ahmet fountain is a 
fine specimen of this kind of Turkish art. Built 
square and entirely of white marble, it is flanked 
at the corners with projecting rotundas open and 
elegantly bronzed. The roof turns up on the 
edge like a pagoda and extending far over the 
sides, makes a Gothic style and reproduces the 
building's outline. Small columns mark the 



TURKEY. 211 

broad openings, and these are charity stands, 
where water is given to passers by freely. The 
friezes and mouldings are gaily painted and gild- 
ed and the arabesques in the midst of white mar- 
ble make this an ornament indeed, to the in- 
scribed name of Sultan Ahmet III. The Obelisk 
of Theodoseus stands in the Hippodrome, and is 
one-half of an obelisk. It was erected first at 
Heliopolis, in Lower Egypt by Pharaoh, in the 
year 160 B. C. It is one solid block of rose gran- 
ite, cut from one of the quarries of Aswan, 40 
feet high, 2 1-2 feet at the base. It was erected 
by Theodoseus I. 390 A. D. He alone daring to 
undertake the work, accomplished it in one 
month. The hieroglyphics are -well preserved, 
for the climate spares it from the frost. It is 
one of the children of the decaying Obelisk 
adorning Central Park in our own lovely city 
of New York, and was cut from the same granite 
mine. 

The Serpentine Column also stands just near 
this Obelisk. It is made of brass, consisting of a 
coil of three serpents extending upward only 
six feet high. The heads of the three serpents 
have been mysteriously broken off, one of them 
being in thQ Museum at Constantinople. This 
column was erected B. C. 478 in front of the 
temple of Delphi in Greece, to celebrate the vic- 
tory gained by Pausania and Aristides the Just 



212 TURKEY. 

over the Persians. Constantine brought it here 
to his new capital. And when Mohammet rode 
triumphantly into the city he smote this column 
on the necks of the serpents and the traditional 
Turks are suspicious that this caused the loss of 
their heads. But the heads were stolen. The 
age and history of this column alone give it much 
prominence. 

The Museum of Janissaries at the end of this 
square contains a multitude of wax men clothed 
in their representative garb with letters of intro- 
duction, seeking office and promotion in office, 
from their appropriate officials and chief rulers. 

The Burnt Pillar, once 120 feet high, standing 
in Adrianople street, is great for its antiquity, 
and received its name from the repeated confla- 
grations which have burned it. This was erected 
by Constantine, and now, having suffered from 
earthquake in 1150 is only 85 feet high. 

The Hippodrome was formerly much larger. 
There the horses were trained, coursed, trotted 
and run, and the people flocked with anxious 
eyes and extended purses to witness and pool in 
the races. Plere the emperors and rulers rode 
in a charmed state and the wealthy nobles spent 
much time in turnouts. For in its palmy days, 
Constantinople both bred and imported fine 
horses. Some lingerings of this good trait re- 
main, and to-day she shames the southern coun- 



TURKEY. 213 

tries of Europe and all Clreece in lier possession 
of fine horses. But America eclipses Constanti- 
nople by far. 

The Bazars are the very finest I saw on my 
trip, and are said to far excel the world. They 
are much like our booths at fairs, but more close- 
ly crowded. They cover acres of ground, and 
extend from the center north, south, east and 
west, for at least one quarter of a mile from the 
center. They grade from this size down, and are 
neatly, civilly kept. You are well treated by 
these traders and can by persistency pass along 
without being caught, blocked or persecuted. 
The ladies crowd these bazars, so one ought to be 
safe here, even though jostled and tumbled 
about by surging crowds. If you leave your 
pocketbook at the hotel it is also safe. The 
Jewish bazars are the finest, I think. The Armen- 
ian bazars are dirty. The Egyptian part is far 
worse, the Russian is in order, the Jewish- Ameri- 
can eclipses all. Rugs, neat silk needlework, 
and the like, are found here of very high quality, 
and by bantering until you loathe yourself, are 
obtained at very reasonable prices. 

In the Museum here, we found many things 
of great interest. A few of these things which 
make up the great collection of the two depart- 
ments we mention. One of the buildings is new 
and modern, the other is ancient. Almost the 



214 TURKEY. 

first thing you meet in the modern museum is 
Alexander's sarcophagus or tomb of finest mar- 
ble, most cleverly sculptured with masterly re- 
lief. This was found by excavation about thir- 
teen years ago and brought here from Sidon. 
People travel miles to study this work of Poly- 
chrane, which belongs to the fourth century 
B. C. 

Next we come to the tomb of the Queen of 
Babylonia, which also came from Sidon, and is 
of about the same style. Here is a Satrap en- 
tombed, the sarcophagus being discovered some 
40 years ago. Then we found church columns of 
Byzantine style, the Lead tombs, a Roman tomb 
of Samaria. Here we found bone pens of ele- 
phants' tusks, documents and papers, a printing 
roll of 300 B. C. The treasury of the old Sultan 
is here, the Koran book, complete, 3x2 1-2 feet, 
with table especially for holding the mammoth 
volume while reading, prayer carpet and altar of 
the old Sultan. 

The old Byzantine hall contains the statue of 
the '' Virgin Mary," 50 A. D., ^^ Apollo," Phoeni- 
cian gold excavated by Dr. Schliemann, ' ' Statue 
of Agulus," ''Bath of Molech," ''Achilles" in 
bronze, with beautifully curled hair, etc. 

The last afternoon in Constantinople was one 
never to be forgotten for its delight fulness, 
sporting pleasure and scope of good things taken 



^ TURKEY. 215 

in. The dragoman asked me if I could ride on 
horseback? I answered, ''Yes, sir!" When 
lunch was through, he said : ' ' Put on your suit, 
for the ponies will soon be here." Out I came, 
ready for the ride. In front of the door stood a 
beautiful Arabian horse, and his eye flashed with 
metal undaunted. A little farther on stood an- 
other pony, something similar in build, but he 
lacked the game eye and sharp ear. My guide 
said: "The first one is yours, mount him." 
The footman held him as best he could, I got 
astride, slipped my feet into the fine stirrups by 
the time the pony had flung his feet in the air 
twice or three times. My guide was not ready 
and I attempted to wait for him, but the attempt 
was fruitless. For when the footman held his 
head, into the air went his heels ; when he let go 
his heels filled the air. But being on to stay, the 
man shouted, ''American good man!" and mo- 
tioned to let him go. Well, I held him in till my 
guide came. We went down steep hills and he 
held me safely but at every level place he showed 
how proud he was and how fine he felt. The 
guide led, saying his horse was much the best 
runner. We came to the toll bridge of one-half 
mile in length, and rough covered in its divisions 
with strap iron. I managed to stop my pony so 
that I was not arrested, and while the guide paid 
toll, he had it out in kicking as high and as hard 



216 TURKEY. 

as he could at the tollman, until he said, ''He is 
a dandy, let him go!" Well, he single-footed 
and pranced, the guide tried to quiet him, but 
flying across the crowded bridge we never 
touched a thing, then on until I saw the street 
quite clear and a steep grade for at least a half a 
mile. I was tired of his maneuvres and said, 
' ' Gro ! " If any deer could fly more nimbly than 
he over the flashing cobblestones, you would have 
to wear electric spec's to catch a glimpse. That 
is just what the pony ached to do, and this task 
being accomplished, I had the proudest horse in 
the city, and one which carried me with delight- 
ful ease and extraordinary safety in most miry 
clay, and down steepest rocky inclines. My 
guide said no more about swiftness. But being 
quite a horseman and full of sport he tried my 
horse often enough to keep things lively indeed. 
But no word did I speak, but clung to my reins, 
and the guide could no more pass me than he 
could pass the "flying cloud." There was no 
bounding up and down. He simply shot through 
the air like a lightning flash, and we were there, 
not having a jolt or knowing how or why we were 
so happy. 

We went slowly through the Armenian quar- 
ters and took a thorough view of the ruined 
homes where only four years since 4,000 of these 
would-be faithful ones were butchered, massa- 



TURKEY. 217 

cred and burned. What is left is a horrid spec- 
tacle. What is gone, to human sight, was un- 
endurable and with pen cannot be well reiterated 
or pictured. Here are many Armenians yet, 
hungry, footsore, weary, dirty and dissipated. 
I pity them, but they could use more water, they 
could sweep out the street so you could pass. 
They might find some dumping ground besides 
the main street. They might hide their naked- 
ness and repair their shelters. 

We entered the Russian quarter, and it was 
better kept. These people are better clothed and 
fed. Their training and education is superior. 
Their homes are loose and stand at all slants, 
ups and downs, and crosses imaginable. Deliver 
America, even ''Chinatown," from such inde- 
cency and cuspidore filth. 

Then riding on to the Seven Towers, we saw 
the old walls and relics of the past which point 
out by picture much of history. Constantine 
the Great strengthened these city walls and 
restored the towers. These were the prisons of 
some unfortunate Venetian ambassadors as late 
as 1741. Byron, the poet, was once imprisoned 
here for the night, and bailed out the next morn- 
ing, for attending too strictly to some other 
man's family. Here thousands have been slain 
and their blood has poured down from the be- 
heading block high above into the horrid, but 



218 TURKEY. 

often seen ''Well of Blood," which is in the cel- 
lar of the main tower. Here the heads of the 
Janissaries were piled up, until a mighty court 
of an acre was piled full above the lofty walls of 
the battlements, which are 30 feet high at least. 
This happened when the Turks came into pos- 
session of the city, and later it was called by its 
use the ''Royal Shambles." Seven sultans have 
ended their lives in these bloody walls. They 
likely deserved to die in pain here for the in- 
tense, reckless suffering they had heaped upon 
other innocents. The towers are falling down, 
and in spite of restorations they will be used for 
building purposes, the soil will be cultivated 
and Constantinople unlaced shall spread, being 
rid of its corruption and filth to beautify, unify 
and dignify the nations of the whole earth. 

I marked the Harbor Gates. The "Odun 
Kapai, " or wood gate, is so-called because the 
wood for fuel is landed here. 

Third, the "Yali Kiosk Kapuse," named after 
the handsome Kiosk of Shleiman the Magnifi- 
cent, who once stood on the quay a little to the 
west, where he gave audience to his chief admi- 
ral, when starting on a great naval expedition. 

We passed the "Gate Veteris," or the cattle 
gate, where cattle and vegetables are landed. 

The "Garden Gate" comes next, or the princi- 



TURKEY. 219 

pal harbor of Byzantium, ancient Constantino- 
ple. 

The sixth gate is the ''Fish Market Gate," for 
here they are sold and at this point the ferry 
boats cross. 

The seventh gate marks the place of an old 
prison, and is called the ' ' Prison Gate. ' ' 

Eighth is the "Timber Yard Gate," where 
masses of timber are stored. 

The ninth gate is the last one erected in the 
harbor walls of Constantine, and is called the 
"Gateof the Holy Well." 

On our way home we came through the 
"Egyptian Bandit Quarter," where are robbers 
and toughs that are as rough as their quarters. 
These streets can only be traversed on horseback, 
on account of filth and mud. The women, un- 
couth and unclad, are more dangerous than the 
men, if possible. The children are frightful 
animals. 

We were not disturbed at all in our ride, for 
they knew my guide, and in appearance we were 
attending strictly to our riding. Also our horses 
were ready at a move of the reins, to spring for 
dear life. None could have caught or touched 
them. 

We rode through the Jewish and European 
quarters sprinting our steeds whenever the guide 
tried to pass my model pony. Just as we came to 



^^0 TURKEY. 

the long bridge on our return, he excited my 
flyer and I flew across the bridge like a flash. 
The guide managed to stop his and pay the toll. 
The bridge was left with flying sparks from our 
horses' shoes, the guide was bound to pass me. 
I was moving so rapidly that I did not just 
locate Hotel Bristol. But soon I saw our horse- 
men standing in the broad street with hands 
outstretched to stop us. I glanced, saw the sign 
Hotel Bristol, and said, ' ' Ho, my boy ! ' ' and we 
were at a standstill before our horsemen could 
touch us, and my pony was and would be always 
ahead. The livery man said, ''That's right, my 
boy, don 't you be beaten with my horse. ' ' And 
off he went. We had made some 18 miles inside 
of four hours, and had seen many things not 
mentioned above. I was not lame, nor very tired 
from the exhilaration. I have been feeling bet- 
ter ever since. But I did hate to say good bye 
to that pony. 

' ' He lives to build, not boast, a generous race. ' ' 

' ' Thus would I double my life 's fading space ; 
For he that runs it well, runs twice his race. ' ' 

' ' I cannot praise a fugitive and cloistered vir- 
tue, inexercised and unbreathed, that never sal- 
lies out and sees her adversary, but slinks out 
of the race where that immortal garland is to be 
run for, not without dust and heat. ' ' 



Egypt, 



EGYPT. 223 

CHAPTER XYII. 

EGYPT. 

From Constantinople to Alexandria— Athens 
Carnival— Pilgrims on Board— Landing— Alex- 
andria — To Cairo — Cairo — Museum — Pyramids 
—Sphinx— Trip up the Pyramids— Luxor— The 
Hotel— Temple of Luxor— Extent— Workman- 
ship— Statues- Children Chanting the Koran. 

THE trip from Constantinople to Alexan- 
dria was as peaceful as sleep. For the 
sea was a mirror of calm, with scarcely 
a ruffle on the so often turbulent Mediterranean. 
Being nicely embarked on board the Russian 
steamer ' ' Tychchichoff , " on the 20th of Feb- 
ruary; by the courtesy of the ''Cooks," we set 
sail. This steamer is quite large, the cabins 
spacious, the dining room very neat, and the 
cuisine healthfully distributed and in good pro- 
portions. 

At once friends were found. One gentleman 
from France, another from England, who were 
large traders, were bound for Alexandria, Cairo 
and back to Rome. There seemed to be some- 
thing congenial in our make up, although they 
had their social drinks, and wondered at my 
refusing ; they declared I would be sick without 
wine and whiskey. But after one day, they 



224 EGYPT. 

spoke well of steady habits and became close 
friends and anything they could do for the 
' ' Doctor, ' ' as they called me, was done. As they 
were full of mirth and jollity, the time passed 
swiftly away. 

The sea was as level as a plain and of a beau- 
tiful green color, until we reached Piraeus, the 
port of Athens. Then from there on it gradual- 
ly gathered a deep sky blue. 

But these gentlemen wanted me to go to 
Athens for the Carnival show and urged me to 
go with them. So, boarding the train, it brought 
us there after their very slow fashion. We came 
into the city, saw some of its gaiety of Carnival 
season, and returned to our solitary bunks on 
shipboard refreshed from the monotony of steam- 
ship life. 

Here at Piraeus the next morning, some 
friends from England, a Mr. Howell and his 
wife, came on board the ship. I had met them 
very pleasantly at Athens when traveling 
towards Constantinople. These, introduced to 
the gentlemen friends, and we had a fine addi- 
tion to the agreeables. 

So on we went over the silent, sky blue sea, 
with no annoyances, except a young Polish 
woman who could not speak a word of English, 
who wanted to get acquainted with the American 
minister. And this made so much fun for the 



EGYPT. 225 

crowd that she was forgiven. She was beauti- 
ful, bright and full of fun. The captain, to 
annoy me, would teach her some very warm- 
hearted English, and she, not knowing one word 
of its meaning, would greet me Avitli it. She 
welcomed the minister every morning when he 
came on deck with this phrase, "Good morning, 
darling?" ''I love you much!" ''How are 
you?" etc. Being modest in my nature and 
calling, you can imagine the consternation. 
, On we sped, and no nymph of the spray, nor 
patriarch of the nations was ever sailed over a 
calmer sea for two days than our crew. 

But on the bow of our boat, fenced in, was 
another scene. A band of pilgrims from North- 
ern Russia, mongrels, from Siberia, were on 
board. They are up early mornings, washing 
their hands and arms to the elbows, their fore- 
head, ears, tongues and feet, and praying that 
Mahomet will cleanse each of these members 
from all taint of sin and keep them from evil. 
Then they kneel facing Mecca and work their 
body into contortions, bowing their heads to the 
boards and calling upon Mohammed. These peo- 
ple are covered with crawling things but scantily 
clothed with pads, bed cjuilts and masses of 
bulky, old cloth. Their hair is clipped closely 
and this saves them trouble. They eat, sleep, 
drink and pray in the quarters for cattle. Their 

8 



226 EGYPT. 

food is poor, furnishing their own. They are 
perhaps more ignorant than American cattle. 
They have saved a little money, more than 
enough to pay their fare on the steamer, and 
will walk overland when they enter into port. 
This money, meaning their little all, they will 
pay to Mohammed at Mecca, and through him be 
absolved from all account of sin. Some having 
been there once, wear a green handkerchief 
around their head, and are high officials almost 
sinless. When they have been to Mec^^a twice 
they cannot sin. And the third time they are 
as safe as if heaven had possessed them. So it 
is their religion to arrange a kind of sleeve in an 
old quilt, wrap it around them, leaving the 
breast bare; put on their thick felt boots with 
leather tops, covered with heavy rubbers, and 
tramp and sail 4,000 miles, and make their bodies 
rigid (with prayer shall I say?), rather move- 
ments ; their minds become feeble by exhaustion 
and superstition; their heads scabby with in- 
sects, their skin poisoned with diseases and 
running sores, and they call it devotion. 

Just how to judge them we are not able, but 
we are disposed to be charitable to the poor self- 
sacrificing people, and very severe with their 
prophets and priests who keep them in ignorance 
and teach them lies, when they, know themselves 



it is humbiiggery, and a hoax of sinful ignorance 
toward the people. 

We landed in Alexandria at 6 o'clock, and 
after our ship had been thoroughly inspected, 
the Cooks were the finest and first crew on board 
to give us a welcome and a safe landing. We 
were taken through the customs in short order 
and landed at the ' ' Khedevial Hotel. ' ' This is a 
good place for Alexandria, but anything goes 
here. 

Alexandria is a fine port, just opposite of the 
island Pharos. It was founded B. C. 332 by 
Alexander the Great. It contains a lot of dirt 
and a multitudinous mixed people of all races, 
and many backsheesh beggars. I rode about the 
city, saw its bazars and streets. There is noth- 
ing here worth one's time if he is traveling, but 
Pompey 's Pillar. This is one of the seven won- 
ders of the world and is of solid column granite 
70 feet high, hewn out of the rose granite quar- 
ries of Aswan, 800 miles up the Nile. It is an 
important town, being the all-importing and ex- 
porting town of the East. Its commerce is im- 
mense. All travel and traffic up the Nile and to 
the Holy Land enters through her gates. 

The train route from Alexandria to Cairo was 
full of interest. Constantly new sights full of 
interest met our view. The land, the crops, the 
men, the women, the dress, the machinery, the 



228 EGYPT. 

animals, took my attention for some six hours, 
or for 130 odd miles. The land is a barren waste 
but for irrigation, which makes it directly the 
opposite. As green and flourishing as a garden 
plain it becomes when its thirst is quenched by 
the silty Nile. The grain or grass springs up in a 
night almost and three good crops without fer- 
tilization of soil comes from this singular and 
dead-looking sand. The men and women are ill- 
looking, but strong to endure the heat, mud hut, 
and filth intolerable. Their dress would be plain 
but for the. different hues of dirt which adorn 
all alike. Their only machinery is two wooden 
wheels cogged with wooden pins, and a coarse, 
crooked pole for a sweep. They call it an 
''asakia. " The cattle are huge, black buffaloes 
and buffalo cows. The cows give thin, strong 
tasting milk, and run the asakias, answer for the 
riding horses, and carry the burdens from town 
to town. The donkey is a great beast of burden 
also. The homes are mere clay and brush in- 
closures, £ome of which are indulged with a cor- 
ner brush roof. They do not need roofs so much 
in Egypt. They have no storms, except for a 
month or two, in the whole year. They never 
know what cold is. 

"The lover, all as frantic. 
Sees Helen's beauty in a brow of Egypt; 
The poets in a fine frenzy rolling, 



EGYPT. 229 

Doth glance from heaven to earth, from earth to 

heaven ; 
And as imagination bodies forth 
The forms of things unknown, the poet's pen 
Turns them to shapes, and gives to airy nothing 
A local habitation and a name." 

At Cairo, myself and 320 others of the Cooks' 
party were received with a welcome that really 
seemed homelike. The company's dragoman 
and assistants all demand your confidence, and 
they assist you as if you each were kings. AH 
your needs must and are attended to at once. 

We were taken to the Continental Hotel, a fine 
large, lofty, up-to-date, Europeanized palace. 
It is about on a line with ''Shepheard's" and 
this hotel was full to overflowing. 

My ship from Constantinople was one day 
belated at Piraeus and the steamer thinking I 
was not coming, started Monday night for its 
golden cruise up the Nile. But like the Cooks, 
they paid my extra hotel bill, sent the conductor 
with me to the Pyramids and Sphinx; showed 
me about the beautiful Americanized city of 
Cairo. Tuesday night they put me in a sleeper, 
sent me by rail to join my party at Luxor. And 
I arrived at Luxor almost a whole day ahead of 
the party. Anchored here was another boat of 
the company called "Rameses II." Here I 
was beautifully kept by this boat's captain and 
shown about the temple ruins. 



230 EGYPT. 

Cairo is a city of no n:ean people. It is full 
of Europeanized enterprise, clean for the East. 
Their mammoth hotels, large broad avenues, 
modern blocks and clean, broad streets make you 
think of Paris or New York. This city now 
possesses about 600,000 souls, and is fast running 
up toward the million line. Here you find a 
mixture of all races and tongues. No wonder 
Cambyses called it Babylon, for every race of 
every tongue is found here. The city was likely 
first founded by Assyrian captives in the age of 
Rameses II. about 1360 B. C. 

The city of general importance has some spe- 
cial things of significance. The Tombs of the 
Khalifs, beautiful buildings, situated on the 
eastern side of the city, contain the burial places 
of the families of the Mameluke Sultans, and are 
special things of significance. The Tombs of 
"Yusuf" and "el-Ashraf" are to be seen by 
special permission. Within the tomb-mosque of 
Barkuke are the tombs of Sultan Forad and 
family. The minarets and limestone pulpit 
show great skill in stone sculpture. No history 
has preserved the names of the builders of these 
tombs, but looking around you their works im- 
press you deeply. 

The Museum of Cairo contains many import- 
ant relics of history and emblems of the 
early skill of the ancients which we may mention 





ir^ 




r 




W 






ir 


i till 


f|: 



EGYPT. 231 

farther on. But especially here we wish to men- 
tion the mummy of Rameses II., or Pharaoh of 
the Exodus neatly preserved. I conclude that 
naturally the Egyptians must have looked after 
the body of Pharaoh in the drowning flood of 
Scripture. They preserved it in a great tomb 
near Thebes, and now here it lies a testimony of 
the truth of that historic fact. Time will solve 
the mystery, and solve it justly, but this mummy 
is certainly very similar to the hundreds of stone 
statues of Pharaoh I saw up the Nile. 

The Pyramids of Gizeh are located twelve 
miles north of Cairo on a high, rocky site mixed 
with sand, which drifts like snow. They evi- 
dently were not built ^ov meters or astronomical 
purposes, but simply as tombk; for the kings. 

The pyramids at Gizeh were first opened by 
the Persians during the fourth or fifth century 
before Christ. And now in a line stand three 
important pyramids, perhaps one-quarter of a 
mile apart, at the end of a magnificent carriage 
drive beautifully paved, kept and shaded. This 
drive has running along parallel with it an elec- 
tric car line of modern enterprise, twelve miles 
from Cairo up the Nile. The description of one 
pyramid explains them all, which are alike, ex- 
cept in size and name. 

The largest and most historic pyramid was 
built by the second king of the lY. dynasty, 



232 EGYPT. 

'^Khnfui/' or Cheops, B. C. 3733. His name 
was found engraved and written in red ink upon 
the blocks of stone inside. All four sides meas- 
ure alike, in greatest length 755 feet each. It 
is built of blocks of stone three feet or more in 
height, each layer laid in toward the center 
three feet more than the layer beneath it. At 
the top it reaches a height of 451 feet, and has 
here a flat surface of 30 feet square. The small- 
er stone contain more than 30 cubic feet, and are 
3 1-2 feet high. This great tomb was begun by 
Cheops in the first year of his reign and one 
layer was laid for each year's reign, or nearly 
so, until his death. It was finished by his suc- 
cessor. 

The entrance is from the north side, like all 
other pyramids, and about 45 feet above the 
ground. The passage is 320 feet long, 3 1-2 feet 
high and 4 feet wide. Inside are chambers of 
considerable size for the Idng and his family. 
The king's chamber is alone and considerably 
above the queen's. It has a separate passage 
leading up to it. 

Cheops chamber is 140 feet above the base of 
the pyramid, and nearly 35x19x17 feet, contain- 
ing an air chamber for ventilation, which is con- 
nected with the main ventilator of the structure. 
The stone for this great monument came from the 
Limestone quarries of Arabia, and it took about 



EGYPT. 233 

100,000 men 10 years to drag the stone to the 
Nile, raft them to Gizeh. and construct a road 
two-thirds of a mile long and 60 feet wide, np 
from the Nile to the position of the pyramid. 
More than twenty years ^vith 100.000 men was 
consumed in its construction after the road was 
built and the stone were landed up the river; 
100,000 men would work three months, and then 
another shift of the same number took their 
places. Those who built it had no pay, but 
were fed on garlic, onions and bread. Many 
died in the task of unhuman slavery imj^osed 
upon them. The toil was especially irksome in 
a land of no machinery, and the stones contain- 
ing 160 or 200 cubic feet caused many a man to 
take his last lift. But these stones have stood 
there now 5,634 years ^^dthout any restoration 
whatever, and seem yet unharmed. They will 
at least stand as much longer. How mighty was 
the superstition of those old Bible times that 
made our Idngs cause all this labor to preserve 
the body, thinking it was the only Avay to pre- 
serve the soul. Now some A^-ickedness abounds, 
but even Egypt has arisen from such stupid 
ignorance. And the soul of Christian progress 
is ever marching on and climbing out of the 
dark pyramids of superstition and damp stone 
walls of horror into Christ's marvelous light and 
flowery pathways. 



234 EGYPT. 

The Sphinx stands a little distance from the 
Pyramids, but belongs to a different age. Its 
workmanship is different. The age of this curi- 
ous wonder is unknown and at present is past 
finding out. 

The story is that one of the kings, Harmacis, 
appeared to Thothmes IV., and promised to be- 
stow on him the crown of Egypt if he would hew 
his image out of the sandstone. But I am sure 
the king received no flattering image, and I 
doubt if the sculptor obtained the promised re- 
ward. However, this image is wonderfully well 
preserved, after bearing all of the wear of time. 
The face has a much disfigured nose, but an 
artistic, almost perfect ear. The brows and eyes 
have yet a dull, heavy life in them. The neck is 
worn and eaten by the weather. In our climate 
it would not stand long without letting the head 
fall. This is one of the relics which has never 
been restored and it stands in its original form. 
It is hewn out of one solid, natural rock, natural- 
ly placed. The body, 150 feet long, is quite 
shapely. The paws are 50 feet feet long, and 
the head 30 feet long and 14 feet wide. From 
the base of the monument to the top of the head 
it measures 70 feet. The Mohammedan rulers 
have abused the face of this antique monument, 
and disfigured it badly, much to the disgust of 
more thoughtful people. 



EGYPT. 235 

When returning from the Sphinx three differ- 
ent boys accosted ns, and said with honest face : 
"We ran up this pyramid and back in seven 
minutes for Napoleon. We run up for Ameri- 
cano the same price, two shillings, two shillings. ' ' 
I remarked that they were not born when Napo- 
leon traveled here. And my conductor inter- 
preted the meaning to them. They looked con- 
founded. But in a moment they smiled sweeter 
than ever and teased me to give one shilling" for 
this run up and down these 3 1-2 foot steps. I 
told them I would not be cruel enough to pay 
them for such a feat. And to my friends I want 
to say, it does not pay to climb this ugly thing, 
and spend one week to get over the hurt. Some 
truly never recover from this needless task. I 
stood it fairly well, but some of the party are 
not free from the injuries yet. 

At Luxor, 450 miles from Cairo, I found my- 
self at 9 o'clock Wednesday morning, February 
27, after dining with a fine doctor from Baltimore. 
The ever alert Cooks on board the Rameses II., 
having received word from the main office of my 
coming, welcomed me on board this boat into a 
party of sixty Englishmen. They treated the 
imposing tramp vdth much kindness and cour- 
tesy. And with them I forgot that I was lost 
until Thursday morning after breakfast the cap- 
tain of Rameses II. pointed out my ship, the 



236 EGYPT. 

''Tewfik," and said, ''You need not mind leav- 
ing ns unless you choose. ' ' 

But there is no place like home, even among 
strangers, and quickly I found my way to the 
safe and neat Tewflk, and entered my stately 
cabin, reserved next to the California banker. 

The Luxor Hotel is full of interest, being 
elegantly kept. The flower gardens belonging 
to it are most delightful. Its orchards are 
trained by servants. At this time, profusely 
fragrant blossoms filled all the air with aroma, 
the eye with delight, and the birds sang their 
sweetest songs in sublimest strains, catching the 
sensitive ear of many American and English 
guest. I found six blossoms of different varie- 
ties for pressing and gave the servant a penny 
for the steal. 

The Luxor Temple has not seemed important 
compared with Karnak until the recent excava- 
tions. Now many courts and chambers once 
buried are uncovered and its importance is much 
enhanced. The excavations were begun only as 
far back as 1883. The work was carried on so 
rapidly that the natives revolted at the removal 
of the earth which supported their huts of mud. 
Maspero, Grebant and Grand-bey, assisted by 
English capital, continued the clearing in 1887 
and 1888. They unearthed mammoth pillar 
after pillar, and wall after wall, of great stones, 



EGYPT. 237 

written with hieroglyphics which explain vol- 
umes of history. The temple fills a large area, 
and is built of dark sandstone on the foundation 
of another old religious edifice. It belonged to 
the old and the mighty city of Thebes and was 
dedicated to the heathen god Mut. It was called 
the House of Amen in the south Apt, by its own 
inscription. It Avas built by Amennophis III., 
1500 B. C, as the grandest temple then in Egypt, 
in length 500 feet and width 180 feet. The tem- 
pie has a paved way approaching it some 2,000 
feet iu length. After the builder's death his 
son destroyed it, but Rameses II., or the Pharaoh 
of the Bible, built a large colonnade and mag- 
nificent courtyard and restored it generally. The 
Persians raided it, sacked and burned it. In 
27 B. C. the fearful earthquake greatly mangled 
its tottering forms. The Christians came in, 
and turning certain parts into churches, they 
dashed down mighty statues, disfigured bas 
reliefs, and wrecked shrine after shrine. Then 
building churches of their own, the people of 
the town began to build mud huts on the ruins. 
These fell down and filled the space and others 
were built on the ruins and fell, and so the 
famous temple was buried from sight, and mod- 
ern Luxor was built upon it, no one knowing 
what was beneath. 

Here is a fine, rose-granite obelisk, 82 feet in 



238 EGYPT. 

height, and weighing 250 tons. Its twin brother 
now stands in the Place de la Concorde in Paris. 
These are solid columns, hewed out of the mines 
at Aswan, 133 miles from the temple. The 
front of the temple was ornamented with six 
huge granite statues of Rameses II. Rameses' 
name is inscribed in Arabic on each statue. 
These are broken, thrown down and marred, but 
are here yet, monuments to every traveler's eye 
to the sculptor skill of those days. Two seated 
statues, one on each side of the door, are of black 
granite, and many others all about us are red. 

The pylon bore on its faces the history of its 
builder and the sketch of some victorious war- 
fare. The victory of Rameses I. over Kheta, 
and the strife of Thebes in a festival, etc., ap- 
pear. 

Some of the reliefs on the walls of this temple 
date from 1500 B. C, many from 1300 B. C, the 
period of Rameses II. In the northwest corner 
are the figures of 17 sons of Rameses II., making 
offerings at the ceremony of dedication. The 
court contains 72 fine columns at least 6 feet in 
diameter, decked with beautiful lotus capitals. 
The walls throughout this lofty, roofless temple 
bear a multitude of graven images of gods and 
goddesses in sacrifice, offering the key of life to 
the soul, and pouring out incense for prayer. 
Also the faces of the walls where images are not 



EGYPT. 239 

engraved, bear inscriptions readily interpreted 
by scholars of the language and are valuable 
beyond all books for the unbroken and connected 
history which they contain. 

In one corner of this temple in a walled chapel 
20 feet by 10 feet, I heard a chant of many 
voices. Walking to the temple 's border, I found 
that underneath the brush roofed cell 20 by 8, 
hot and foul with human rubbish, some twenty- 
five unclad and very rarely clad children, with 
matted hair and dirty faces, were chanting the 
Koran. An American child could not stand such 
treatment for two hours a day for one week. 
An American doctor who would allow such a 
state of sanitary conditions for two weeks, in the 
United States, would have committed an unpar- 
donable sin against his fellow's poor children. 
But this is not one-half of Mohammedan desola- 
tion. Their beds are damp, dirty rocks, covered 
with mud huts. The rocks are spread over with 
one thickness of stalks or rug, too foul for a 
porker's habitation, too much inhabited for any 
animal's approach, and here they sleep — father 
mother, brother and sister, to the number of from 
ten to twenty, scrawny, black-eyed, animal nat- 
ured, and worse than animal treated human 
souls, journeying fast to the judgment. Who 
shall declare their generation, or answer for 
their degradation? 

Well, the Luxor temple is dedicated to the 



240 EGYPT. 

worship of the old Pharaoh of the Bible, and 
marks his history. It did not pay Pharaoh to wor- 
ship the true God, so he made of himself a god, 
for the people ^o worship. The people were led 
to bow down to him, to sacrifice to him, to pay 
their little all to him, that he might become rich. 
Here in his numerous statues erected in this 
temple is a whole revelation of Pharaoh, of the 
intelligence of a lost people, of a lost God, of a 
lost religion, enslaved and sent to all these years 
of dark perdition and ignorance of this time by 
one man, that his selfish love and pleasure might 
be gratified. My prayer is for myself and the 
readers of this sketch, Lord make us above the 
sin of self-righteousness. 

''There is a land where time no count can keep. 
Where works of men imperishable seem. 
Where through death's barren solitude doth 

gleam 
Undying hope for them that sow and reap ; 
Yea, land of life, where death is but a deep. 
Warm slumber, a communicable dream. 
Where from the silent grave far voices stream 
Of those that tell their secrets in their sleep." 

' ' Land of the palm tree and the pyramid. 
Land of sweet waters from a mystic urn. 
Land of sure rest, where sun shines on forever, 
I left thee— in the sands a heart was hid ; 
My life, my love were cast upon thy river. 
And lo ! to seek Osiris I return. ' ' 

''Sound the loud timbrel o'er Egypt's dark sea! 
Jehovah has triumphed — his people are free." 



Egypt Advanced, 



EGYPT. 243 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

EGYPT ADVANCED. 

Luxor— Karnah— The Ramesseum— Religion 
and Gods— Modern Egyptians — The Copts— The 
Nubians— The Egyptian Races — Karnak Tem- 
ple. 

THE first morning after boarding the Tew- 
fik, we started across the Nile, which is at 
least 1,500 feet broad at this point, to 
visit the ruins and gorgeous temples at Thebes. 
About thirty of us packed into two things they 
call boats. Their boats are heavy, clumsy, awk- 
ward and slow. We were rowed across, but 
when in midstream I heard a noise as of a com- 
ing earthquake. But looking around I saw three 
boat loads of donkeys before us. They were to 
meet us on the other side. The king donkey only 
brayed, so joy filled the hearts of the party, for 
they knew no harm would come unless it was 
from deafness. And even deafness was prefer- 
able to such sounds galore. 

Before we reached the plank extended for our 
landing, a multitude of donkeys and boys crowd- 
ed around it like sheep. We did not know their 
use, and we wondered at the curiosity of the 
natives. As soon as we stepped on the plank 



244 EGYPT. 

there was a rush of those enthusiastic boys to 
put you on their donkey. In spite of one police- 
man to pound them and our dragoman to raw- 
hide them, they took one man of 180 pounds, 
and began to carry him by force to the donkey. 
But being able to help himself and wishing not 
to come in contact with the natives, for sufficient 
reasons, one telling blow was struck and the 
clutching grasp was loosened, and again he was 
not a captive but a free American. Soon all 
were seated gracefully on their donkeys and off 
we went with a whirl. A friend of mine weigh- 
ing 225 pounds was whizzing up the sandy bank 
on a little skeleton of a donkey and off he went 
over the bended knees of his donkey in a foot- 
ball pile. All eyes were turned toward him in 
pity, because of the mishap. But bounding up 
like a football touchdown, he remarked, as al- 
ways, cleverly, "It never touched me!" The 
laughter of the company so shook the sides of 
the donkeys that they bounded on at a greater 
pace than ever. And soon passing mud huts, 
naked boys and girls, and fording a stream, we 
came to the first temple. 

Kurnah is a temple of Egypt built by Seti I., 
in honor and memory of his father Rameses I., 
and completed byhisson,Rameses II., or Pharaoh. 
This temple had two pylons or entrances and 
joining them was a beautiful avenue of Sphinxes. 



EGYPT. 245 

The temple was located on the edge of the desert 
that it might be more central and convenient. 
Within the several chambers are indicated their 
manner of worship, their different shrines, 
libraries, etc. We must remember Egypt was 
not in those days what it is to-day. But it was 
far superior. On the walls are engravings which 
represent Kameses II. in the act of offering to 
the gods. Eameses II. and Seti II. are among 
the gods. One of the inscriptions reads, "Seti 
went to heaven and was united with the semi- 
god before the temple was finished. Rameses II. 
made and fixed the doors, finished the building 
of the walls and decorated the interior." This 
is enough to give you an idea of this old beautiful 
sandstone ruin which has only been unearthed 
for about fifteen years. And the above piece of 
inscription will show how important the volumes 
of history written within every temple and on 
every old wall of Egypt are. The columns of 
these temples are huge blocks of elegant sand- 
stone, of gray tinge, having elegantly carved 
capitals, sometimes Ionic and sometimes Doric. 
The walls are heavy, thick, firmly builcled. The 
whole temple is a huge old remnant of wonderful 
workmanship and skill, revealing by sculpture 
and hieroglyphics, the culture, superstition and 
religion of the ancients. 

The Ramesseum, located in the same vicinity, 



246 EGYPT. 

belonging to the same city, of Homeric fame— is 
another magnificent temple, the work of Rameses 
II. Two pylons stand in front of it. The first 
court has single rows of pillars on each side. 
There are fine steps remaining, up which you 
pass to the second pylon, and still there is an- 
other row of round columns on the east and west 
sides. And on the north and south sides is a row 
of pilasters with the large figure of Rameses II. 
or Pharaoh, under the form of Osiris attached. 

Beside this great temple of granite stood a 
colossal statue of Rameses II., sixty feet high, of 
solid, hard, red granite, which was thrown 
down by Cambyses, turned over on its back and 
the head mutilated. It lies here now, and the 
head, the arms and legs and hands are more than 
gigantic. This statue would have cost millions 
had not slave labor done much of the work. And 
the sculptor, though living in 1300 B. C, was 
indeed an artist. You can here again read the 
spirit of Pharaoh building, statues to himself. 

Within the temple are sculptured scenes of the 
battles of Rameses II., and volumes of other his- 
tory of immense value. Now to rest your mind 
from the lately excavated ruins of old temples, 
we must give you as best we can a little picture 
of the modern Egyptians. 

The religion and gods of ancient Egypt are in- 
deed yet difficult to understand, and in my mind 



EGYPT. 247 

will ever be unknown, since the people them- 
selves never understood them. And much less 
did the gods know the people. But generally 
speaking the gods of Egypt were the everlasting 
and unalterable powers of nature. ''Day and 
night," ''light and darkness," etc., were their 
deities. Amen-Ea was said to be the maker of 
all things, and other gods as Horus and Atumen 
were mere forms of him. Ra was self -begotten 
in their minds and one of their hymns will illus- 
trate their worship of him as elaborately as this 
book can afford. 

1. "Hail, prince coming forth from the 
womb ! ' ' 

2. ' ' Hail, eldest son of primeval matter ! ' ' 

3. "Hail, lord of multitudes of aspects and 
evolutions ! ' ' 

4. "Hail, golden circle in the temples!" 

6. "Hail, lord of life for all eternity!" 

7. '^'^Hail, lord of myriads and millions!" 

8. "Hail, thou who shinest in rising and 
setting ! ' ' 

9. ' ' Hail, thou who makest beings joyful ! ' ' 

10. "Hail, lord of multitudes of aspects and 
divinities ! ' ' 

11. "Hail, thou lord of terror, thou fearful 
one!" 

12. "Hail, thou who art crowned with the 
white crown; thou master of the unerring 
crown ! ' ' 

13. "Hail, thou sacred baby of Horus, 
praise ! " 



248 EGYPT. 

14. "Hail, son of Ea, who sittest in the boat 
of millions of years ! ' ' 

15. ''Hail, restful leader, come to thy hidden 
places ! ' ' 

16. ''Hail, lord of terror self -produced ! " 

17. "Hail, thou restful of heart, come to thy 
town. ' ' 

18. "Hail, thou that causes cries of joy, 
come to thy town ! ' ' 

19. "Hail, thou darling of the gods and god- 
desses ! " 

20. "Hail, thou dipper in the sea, come to 
thy offerings ! ' ' 

21. "Hail, thou who are in the Nether world, 
come to thy offerings." 

22. "Hail, thou who protectest them come 
to thy temple ! ' ' 

23. "Hail, moon-god growing from a cres- 
cent into an illuminated disk!" 

24. "Hail, sacred flower of the mighty 
house ! " 

This hymn is not finished and consists of hun- 
dreds of tributes to something, to someone of 
greatness. But where and who is who ? was the 
awful blank in their whole-hearted devotion. 

Modern Egyptians numbered in the census 
population of June, 1897, 9,734,405, among 
which were 112,526 foreigners. But because 
here an increase in population means also in- 
crease in taxation, likely the census is not exact. 
In David's time the question of numbering the 
people was very unpopular in the East. It is 




EGYPTIAN NATIVE 



EGYPT. 249 

SO to-day. In the early Pharoahic times there was 
no definite enumeration of the people, although 
some have dared to say 8,000,000 existed then. 
While the French occupied this country, 1798 to 
1801, the population was only 2,500,000. Be- 
tween the years of 1821 and 1846 the population 
almost doubled, making it 4,476,440. In 1882 
there were nearly 7,000,000 of people. The in- 
crease in population since 1882 has been nearly 
40 per cent. The Muslims number 8,978,775; 
Jews, 25,000; Christians of all classes, 730,162. 
The males and females able to read and write 
are 467,886;, and 9,266,519 are illiterate. The 
Fellahin, Copts, Bedouins, Jews, Turks, Negroes, 
Nubians, and people from Abyssinia, Armenians 
and Europeans, make up the population. 

Of the Fellahins about four-fifths of the popu- 
lation is made up. These, if they are following 
any good pursuit it is the agricultural, guided 
by some master mind. Their complexion is dark, 
like the ancient Egyptians. They have straight 
eyebrows, flat noses, with rather low bridges, 
jaws slightly protruding, broad shoulders, large 
mouths and full lips. As you go up the Nile or 
father south they become darker. And Egypt's 
increased cultivation and irrigation of the soil 
is entirely by this people. These people seem to 
be of very patient disposition, slow of anger, 
harmless. They flare at each other sometimes in 



250 EGYPT. 

words, but not in blows. If struck hard they 
will smile at you and say thank you! "Very 
nice, very kind! I thank you very much," or 
something similar. They will step back a little 
from the policeman's blow, smiling as if it were 
only a joke. And in this way they seem to be a 
puzzle to the policeman. For even a policeman 
cannot bear kindness without returning the 
same, if one persists. 

These people run the shadoff for irrigation, 
which is a novel institution consisting of a series 
of skin buckets attached to something like an old 
well sweep and a series of holes and ditches lead- 
ing back to them, rising one above the other from 
the Nile river. The first man dips from the 
river into a hole or basin on the bank, with a 
ditch slanting back from it averaging about the 
height of his head, the next man into the one 
above him until the water is raised on a level 
with the surrounding soil and is led to it by 
ditches somewhat shallow and numerous. One 
man receives about thirteen cents for working 
twelve hours at this labor, in the hottest sun. 
He constantly is straining himself, and irrigates 
not an acre a day. They sow the beans, the bar- 
ley, the wheat, the peas, the sugar cane, which 
grow stout, tall, thick and well laden. They 
harvest the crop and pay the taxes. But many 



EGYPT^. 251 

of them are very indolent and prefer to beg, 
starve or strain out life, rather than labor. 

For comfort, many of their children go naked 
entire, until quite mature. And besides the 
comfort to the children, many mothers seem to 
take pride in exhibiting their children's shining 
skins to travelers. A week or two of this life 
and no one minds the rudeness. And the cul- 
tured lady remarks, "Isn't that a darling 
beauty," and all is smoothed over and lost to 
thought. 

The donkey boys can run on foot six or eight 
miles an hour, spurring on the donkey, and cry- 
ing ' ' Ah, eh ! Ah, eh ! " with a gutteral vehe- 
mence that would almost start a train of cars. 
And the boys seemingly do not mind the task. 
They are the most obliging fellows you ever met 
and seemed at once to fall in love with their 
donkey's rider and you go, or haw, or gee, at 
your liking. 

The Copts in Egypt to-day are estimated to 
number 608,000, and are descendants of the an- 
cient Egyptians of upper Egypt. They were 
noted for their skill in trades, of goldsmiths, 
clothesworkers, clerks and accountants for the 
government offices. They are clever with their fin- 
gers and gain instruction very rapidly in almost 
any line of work. But beyond a certain point in 
their education they have no power to assimilate. 



252 EGYPT. 

Their heads are larger and the whole body is of 
finer type that the Fellahin. 

The Copts are famous for their zeal and doc- 
trines of Christianity. As long ago as St. Mark 
preached at Alexandria the Copt monks threw 
over their confused religion to embrace and pro- 
mulgate the Christian religion. They received 
this teaching of St. INIark and of Christ as the 
"veritable gift of God." But at the time of 
Ecumenical Council at Constantinople, A. D. 
553, dissensions arose and they never have both- 
ered their minds much about theological matters 
since. I saw but one Coptic church, and enter- 
ing found it full of beggars and a sincere people 
who knew much of the Bible and were trying to 
follow its teachings. 

The Bedouins are Arabic ]\Iohammedan tribes 
who live in the desert wastes each side of the 
Nile, and number about 250,000. They are a 
bold, treacherous race when found in the deserts, 
but when they settle down to village life they 
lose their bravery and finest independent quali- 
ties of manhood together. They are neither 
loved by tourists or the natives of the country. 
They are rather feared than shunned. 

The Nubians are very black, and are rather 
greasy-looking men. They live in the poorest 
nuid huts between Aswan and the Asfoath cat- 
aract. They can be trusted as servants, but they 



EGYPT. 253 

love the war dance and finely braided, long, 
greased hair, with cold, white lard hanging to it 
in lumps. 

The Turks are few in Egypt, but the govern- 
ment is employing many who have fitted them- 
selves in Beyrout college for these places. They 
are able to handle the items of business with 
skill and are active for the East. But nothing is 
swift here but the buffaloes and camels. I was 
much surprised at their swiftness, as one day at 
Luxor we witnessed their racing. 

The Egytian races occurred one afternoon to 
entertain the three boat-loads and the hotel peo- 
ple which then, altogether, numbered about six 
hundred. At sight seeing we could not endure 
much over one-half of a day in this hot climate, 
where all the meats lose their taste from the life- 
less atmosphere. Word was brought for us to 
attend the races and in company with my most 
jolly companion, the California banker, R. J. R. 
Aden, we started. The most of the people rode, 
but I had ridden through the sand some twenty 
miles, and I preferred an easy half-mile stroll. 
But my donkey boy wanted me to ride and per- 
sisted until really I had to flail him with my um- 
brella in order to have my way. He w^as anx- 
ious, anxious, anxious for his American to ride. 
(The donkey boys soon learn to not only love 
their rider, but are as proud of him as Lucifer.) 



^54 EGYPl'. 

And a penny now and then tightens the wedlock 
of love. But in spite of my decision some of our 
party going in carriages insisted on my riding. 
We landed safely after a most reckless driver 
had frightened us several times by nearly cap- 
sizing us and really running over one donkey. 

Arriving, we were charged fifty cents for a 
reserved seat on a bamboo hencoop, with a mat 
stretched back of it just high enough to keep off 
all the air and permit the golden sun's rays to 
shine over. And the managers were in no hurry 
to begin. They can't hurry. And when they 
were ready they could not clear the grounds of 
the natives with twenty policemen. This was 
fun alive. The poor fellows don't know what a 
kick is. And the more they were beaten and 
threshed the more their enthusiasm over the 
races was aroused, and they would not back for 
another lashing. One man seemed to be chief of 
police. Inquiring, I found he was the Presby- 
terian minister at the head of a fine American 
mission at this place. He was the originator of 
the races and the chief pooler for the cause of 
missions. 

Three-quarters of an hour wasted by the na- 
tives and the races began. The first was a horse- 
back race, in which six horses were led out into 
the field sixty rods or more and made to canter in 



EGYPT. 255 

by kicks, blows, a-a-ali's, that would arouse all 
of tlie energies of a fleshless casket of bones. 

Then a foot race came on, then an egg race on 
horseback by some English women guests of the 
hotel. Lacking one lady they called on the min- 
ister. I felt insulted. I wonder if ministers 
are sometimes womanish. Lets be men and man- 
ly no matter how ministerial we may become. 

Then a real buffalo cow race came on. In this, 
boys stood at one end of the field, and the buffa- 
loes were held by men at the other end. The 
signal was given and the leaders started with the 
buffaloes, and the boys ran toward them, and 
meeting, the boys mounted the buffaloes running 
at full speed and rode them to the goal. Only 
two boys got on and they hung their arms over 
the buffaloes backs only. It was a mix-up, fall 
down, and a walk over. 

Then those huge camels that ahvays need a 
hogshead of perfumery and the use of a broad- 
axe to hew them down comfortable for people to 
sit on, were led to the other end of the field, and 
their drivers gave them the gad and in they came 
like a lot of frightened deer in full flight. Don't 
tell me a camel can't get out of his slow pace. 
He can beat a good horse for a half mile. He 
can groan out the most horrid tones, too, when 
he is through the race and asked to kneel. 

Then to see the war with the natives to clear 



256 EGYPT. 

the rope for the tug of war was a revelation of 
their patience and persistence. The whole flock 
of 500 natives were all bound to be in the tug, 
and it took at least forty minutes of real club- 
bing to make them let go of the rope and stay 
away. Kapped on the shins they smiled at the 
policeman and said, "Thank you, sir!" and 
grabbed the rope again. 

Well, to see the demonstrations of the natives, 
their tug of war and all, was a paradox of 
laughter better felt than told. And then to 
think that your fun and dissipation was all for 
missions made us Avax fat with inner mirth. 

Now once more I must bring you back to one 
of the temples which was so interesting to me. 
We will pass by ''The Colossi," ''Mendinet 
Habu, " " Der-el-Bahari " and the temples of 
Rameses III., which we visited from Luxor, and 
ask you to see Karnak. 

Karnak is the greatest ruin of old temples in 
Egypt, both in size, grandeur and history. It 
was connected with the Luxor temple by an ave- 
nue of 6,500 feet long and 80 feet wide. This 
spot was very holy ground from the early cen- 
turies. The kings of Egypt from Thothmes III. 
to Energetes II., lavished much wealth on tem- 
ples and built this shrine of Amen in the Apts 
magnificently. And this temple was standing 
1600 B. C. Before 1600 B. C. Rameses II. erect- 



EGYPT. 257 

ed two obelisks in front of Karnak of elegant 
granite, and the temple must have stood there 
then. The avenne from Luxor to Karnak was 
nearly one and one-fourth miles long, sixty feet 
wide, and lined all the way on either side with 
stone sphinxes. Then another long avenue ex- 
tended from the Nile to the temple on the east. 
It was elaborately paved and lined with ram- 
headed stone sphinxes. Enough of these ave- 
r^ues and sphinxes remain to-day in position, 
some of them well preserved, to not only satisfy 
one of their reality, but to open one's mind with 
wonder at such tremendous outlay. 

The gateway of the temple as you approach 
from Luxor is a most imposing, delicately sculp- 
tured structure, and is to-day well preserved. 
The court hall has a double row of pillars, and 
the entrance from either side is corridored with 
thickly rowed columns. The tw^elve columns 
forming a double row in the middle are sixty 
feet high and thirty- five feet in circumference. 
The others, 122 in number, are forty feet high 
and twenty-seven feet in circumference, beauti- 
fully capitated. Those set up by Seti I. and 
Rameses II., are some of them standing to-day, 
and excavations are now going on as well as res- 
toration, to preserve this relic of better times. 

The tablet of ancestors is now in Paris, where 
King Thothmes III. is making offerings to a 

9 



258 EGYPT, 

number of his royal ancestors. On the north 
side of the temple the chamber still remains 
where he made these offerings. And on the 
north side was the lake filled with infiltration 
from the Nile. You can gather some idea of this 
mammoth temple from the above. I must now 
let your imagination work until I see you. 

There are many theories how this old temple 
came to be buried there^ but there is only one 
that seems feasible. The banks of the Nile and 
the change in its course, all point to burial by 
flood or overflow. For the Nile overflows its 
banks two months in the year some 10 or 16 feet. 
The immense volume of filth submerged the tem- 
ple. 

The Lifting of Rameses II. at Memphis. 
"When with the breath of fire upon his face, 
And scarce escaped Pelusium's treachery. 
To Ptah the king his statues twain would place, 
He thought not here to lie 
A burial hulk, to cover up whose shame 
Each year the Nile with strange compassions 

came. 
Did something of the sorrow of a king 
Cast down, dishonored, enter heart of stone. 
That when we strove to raise the battered thing 
And set him on his throne. 
Face downward still, for all our wish to save 
Our oaken beams and ram — he sank into his 

grave ? 
But slow and sure against his royal will 



Moved by the lever 's pulses fiercely piled, 

The giant statue yielded to our skill, 

We turned him on the side, 

And saw upon his belt and on his hand 

The words our day can dimly understand. 

First favorite of the Sun, Light, Strength and 

Truth, 
Rameses, beloved of Amen, so we read 
The royal titles that the Memphian youth 
Spake low, and bowed the head. 
The sun shines still. Truth stands, and God's 
light grows. 
But power has passed from off these marble 
brows. 



Egypt Concluded. 



EGYPT. 263 

CHAPTER XIX. 

EGYPT CONCLUDED. 

Tombs of the Kings— Discovery hy Kama— 
Seti I. Tomb- Onward March of Egypt— Edfu 
and its Temples— Aswan— Evergreen Elephan- 
tine — Philae — The Barrage — Arab Mohammed — 

Song on the Nile. 

V\ J T^ must introduce you to the tombs of the 
\Y/ kings, which being of importance, are 
also dangerous. One woman entering, 
in going down the steep, smooth descent with 
nothing to cling to, disfigured her nose and face 
greatly. And in a true American spirit I offered 
simply my arm to an old maid to steady her down 
the decline, and she shook me severely, as if I were 
a flea. But after repenting and trying to smooth 
over the unlady-like manner, because the com- 
pany and dragoman resented her behavior, with 
a smile ' ' I passed by on the other side. ' ' So the 
tombs are deep, dark, slippery places, likely to 
destroy the body, and have no power to restore 
the soul. See to it that you enter carefully, 
patiently, with smiles upon your face and Chris- 
tian love in your heart. 

Discovery of the tombs was by an Arab, Kar- 
na, in the year 1871, or thirty years ago. He 



264 EGYPT. 

found a large tomb filled with coffins, and many 
of them indicated royal personages. The native 
knew he had made a valuable discovery. So 
secluding the bodies he sold scarabs and orna- 
ments for some ten years, much enriching his 
store of earthly possessions. M. Marriette of 
-Paris, bought a Suez papyrus, which contained a 
text concerning these buried kings. M. Maspero 
catching the idea of the existing tombs, made 
his way to Thebes, purchased some ornaments, 
and made successful investigation in 1881. He 
had one of the scarab sellers arrested and under 
the most bitter threats he would not reveal the 
secret. Entombed in prison for two months he 
was released, and finally in discussing with his 
friends how he might manage, they revealed the 
secret and Kama revealed his discovery. 

Research disclosed not only one tomb, but 
many, and doubtless to-day there are others to be 
excavated as soon as means can be furnished. 
Already they have found the enormous tombs of 
Seti I., Rameses III., IV., VI., IX., and I., in 
order, also Thothmes III., Amenophis II., Rech- 
ma-Ra and Nekht. These tombs have such a 
sameness that a brief description of one must 
give you thought for the others. They are on 
the west side of the Nile, opposite to Luxor in 
the ancient city of Thebes. 

The Tomb of Seti I. was built B. C. 1366. 



EGYPT. 265 

And from it has been secured a most beautiful 
alabaster sarcophagus, which is now preserved in 
the Sloan Museum in London. It was found lying 
in the chamber at the bottom of the tomb. The 
inscriptions and scenes found on these walls are 
numerous, and form parts of the ''Book of Being 
in the Underworld, ' ' which cannot occupy much 
space here. The paintings and sculpture con- 
tain an excellence and beauty remarkable. The 
writings with these point out that the whole 
series refer to the life of the king in the under- 
world. The entrance of the tomb is by a good- 
sized door and two flights of steps, at the end of 
which is a passage terminating in a small cham- 
ber. This leads to a great six-pillared hall with 
vaulted chamber, where stood the sarcophagus of 
Seti I. And here is an inclined plane which 
reaches down into the mountain at a sharp in- 
cline without steps, some 250 feet. The whole 
length of the tomb is at least 500 feet. The walls 
are elegantly ornamented, and the designs were 
first sketched in outline in red, and the altera- 
tions by the more skillful artist were made in 
black. The mutilations of this tOmb for the 
last twenty years have been many and now pro- 
tection is furnished. Please remember all of 
this space of the tomb is hewed out of the solid 
rock of the mountain, and then try to count the 
cost ; the years of hard slave labor for the pres- 



266 EGYPT. 

ervation of the king's body. Then thank God 
you have learned the body is perishing, but that 
He giveth to the soul eternal life, and you can 
feed on Him ''who preserveth both soul and 
body unto everlasting life," for Christ is the 
hewn rock of our safety. 

The Onward March of Egypt under British 
rule is phenomenal. Seventeen years have so 
advanced its material progress that you can 
hardly understand its famished, bankrupt condi- 
tion at the time of Arabi Pasha 's war. For every 
beast then in the fields, there are fifteen now. 
And the peasant farmer no longer fears the 
crushing weight of the arbitrary tax gatherers 
who would sell not only the produce, but the 
peasant himself for rent. The cities and towns 
are repaired and new buildings modernized are 
making the towns and villages look like full 
blown flowers. A little paint and whitewash 
indicate some cash in store without the income of 
revenue. The water supply is allotted and reg- 
ularly the land owner receives his share. It is 
not as once, when the land owner used all the 
water to his neighbor's poverty and famine. 

Forced labor upon canals and rivers being 
abolished in 1889 was indeed a great blessing to 
this people. It costs the government at least 
$2,000,000 a year to do without forced labor. 
But the cost is ten times repaid in the elevation 



EGYPT. 267 

of the nation. Under the former system, shame- 
ful abuses crept in and hundreds of officials had 
their houses built, canals cut and lands irrigated 
at public expense. And the poorest paid the 
extravagant 's bills. Egypt and all nations can 
thank Viscount Cramer for the Christian and 
brilliant achievement. The doing away with 
compulsory labor has stricken from the public 
rolls 50,000 slaves, and increased the public rev- 
enues $1,000,000 in ten years. Also the taxation 
in ten years has been materially reduced. Rail- 
ways, telegraphs, customs, imports and exports, 
postofifices, schools and the missions, have been 
healthfully creeping in. One mile of the rail- 
way in my mind is worth more to Egypt and its 
people's needs, than all the pyramids of ages. 
One school means more than all the gods and 
goddesses of the past. In 1889, 1,063 studied 
English in government schools, and in 1899, 
4,401 students of these schools took English' 
meaning 78 per cent, of all in attendance. Soon 
the Anglo-Saxon tongue will ring with liberty 
and freedom throughout Egypt and all Africa. 
The peasants now till the soil, irrigate it and 
sow the seed, and gather their share in the har- 
vest. All the sandy desert of Egypt will yet be 
one field of golden corn from irrigation of the 
Nile. But we must record our trip to Edfu. 
Edfu is 66 miles up the Nile from Luxor on 



268 EGYPT. 

the west bank. Formerly it was a great place 
for crocodiles and here they were worshipped. 
Now you are no more likely to see a crocodile in 
Edfu than in America. When westward civili- 
zation flows in they with other nuisances take 
their final leave. The temple here occupied 180 
years, three and one-half months in building. 
It was begun under Ptolemy III., B. C. 237, and 
finished B. C. 57 Its construction is fine, but 
its leading peculiarity is its high towers of 112 
feet, making its general magnificence very strik- 
ing. It measures 450 feet by 120 feet. Its en- 
trance is by a court galleried on three sides by 
thirty- two pillars. The temple was dedicated to 
Horus and the pylons are covered with battle 
scenes. The walls are inscribed with a list of its 
chambers and a list of names of places. The 
name of its architect is inscribed as Imonthis. 
This, like all the other temples, was covered with 
debris until M. Marriette unearthed it. About 
forty miles from here is the village of Redesiyeh 
and another temple of Seti I. The temple at 
Edfu is well preserved with mosaic floors and 
strong, densely crowded columns, running to a 
pleasant height, from which one obtains a broad 
and charming view of the little town and the 
massive fields around about it. Our next place 
of charms was Aswan. 

It is 538 miles from Cairo, and about 750 miles 



EGYPT. 269 

from the sea where our boats took anchorage be- 
fore turning homeward. This town marks the 
place of the First Cataract and a few years ago 
was the extreme of traversed Egypt. But a few 
days make years and the world of Egypt now lies 
bej^ond. This town on the east bank of the Nile, 
years ago obtained great notoriety among the 
people, because Erot Erotosthenes and Ptolemy 
considered it to lie in the tropic of cancer. It 
contained a famous well where at the summer 
solstice the sun's rays fall vertically and illumi- 
nate it in every part. Thirty-seven degrees, 
twenty-three minutes north of the tropic this 
town lies. The Romans held Egypt by garrison- 
ing three places, Aswan, Cairo and Alexandria, 
and three legions of cohorts were stationed here. 
Its ancient size must have been considerable, 
since it has been described as a flourishing town, 
and history speaks of 20,000 people being swept 
away in one plague. The Persians, Arabs, Turks 
and Nubians seem to have in latter years com- 
bined for its destruction. The oldest ruins are 
those of Ptolemy's temple, which we cannot af- 
ford to describe now. 

The Evergreen Elephantine Island lies a 
short distance to the north of the Cataract just 
oT^posite of Aswan and is famous not only for 
is gardens of flowers, but it has always been the 
key to southern Egypt. The island is very fer- 



270 EGYPT. 

tile and is said to retain its vine and fig leaves 
throughout the year. Here is the famous Nilo- 
meter well which is a masterpiece of masonry, 
where the water rises and falls with that of the 
Nile, and it bears the marks of its rise and fall 
for years. Reckoning from the marks in this 
well the meter man can estimate what the rise of 
the river will be and communicate the news to all 
along the banks. It is Egypt's "weather bu- 
reau." It greatly helps the agriculturalist and 
the governors. For while the former regulates 
for irrigation, the governor used to tax higher or 
lower as the river raised and fell in the season of 
overflow. 

Several tombs and the high walled monastery 
of St. Simon, the refuge of the monks, lies near 
here, but our pen is too swift to stay. 

Philae is a name given to the two islands which 
are situated at the head of the First Cataract, six 
miles south of Aswan. It is sometimes known 
by the term ' ' City of Isis, ' ' and one author has 
written of it as the ''interior of heaven." 

Thus it is held as a most holy site, as can be 
seen by its titles, ' ' Holy Island, ' ' etc. The trip 
to this island is a delightful one. For your 
view is constantly changing from huge moun- 
tains of dark, black flint rocks, to single ones 
from ten to twenty feet in diameter, worn by 
water into forms of kings and queens, animals 



EGYPT. 271 

and houses. The island is 1418 feet from north 
to south, and 464 feet wide, and itself is formed 
from crystalline rock, mainly hornblending 
granite, over which the rich Nile mud has been 
deposited. The vegetation is consequently most 
luxuriant, and the flowers and palms bear not 
only shade but fragrance exquisite in their lofty 
foliage. The island contains several buildings, 
many of which date from Ptolemy's time, 323 
B. C. The temple of Isis is one of the main 
objects of interest. It is mainly founded on 
the rock, while the others are subject to the 
changes of the loose Nile deposit. In the Greek 
and Roman times, the chief deities were Isis and 
Osiris. The collecting of the parts in which 
the mutilations and death of the body of Osiris, 
and the reconstruction of the body by 
Isis, and the breathing into the body the 
breath of life by the words and skill 
which Thoth had taught her, form very promi- 
nent scenes. These are largely illustrated in the 
temple of Isis. From this worship and the tem- 
ple shrines which caused the gathering of the 
people here, the indeed palmy days of Philae 
began. 

This temple consists of a pylon finely decor- 
ated with reliefs of several rules, Nectanebus II., 
Ptolemy III., IX. and XII., and Neus Dionysus; 
a court containing the Mammisi and a colonnade. 



273 EGYPT. 

which are sculptured and painted with the forms 
of dignitaries. Another pylon is ornamented 
with reliefs of Ptolemy I. and II. The chamber 
of Osiris, which contains reliefs of ceremonies 
relating, to the death and resurrection of Osiris, 
and the names of rulers on the outside, is of spe- 
cial interest. Several other temples exist, but 
we must now pass to living history, which means 
more than temples, shrines or flowers. In 1893 
the project of a dam and reservoir at Aswan was 
submitted to the government of Egypt and the 
scheme is being carried out through the enter- 
prise of the British. 

Through all time the Nile has watered the land 
of Egypt at its own convenience and pleasure. 
No ruler or statesman has seriously undertook to 
regulate the supply of water for cultivated lands 
by drains or reservoirs. This river of silt, 
richer than gold, has wasted itself by deposits of 
tons of sediment in the sea just where it was not 
wanted. In the present century, 1833, Moham- 
med Ali blocked the Rosetta branch with a stone 
dam, making the water to flow into the Damietta 
branch, from which all of the large canals drew 
water for irrigation. Linant Pasha, seeing its 
effect, asked for the construction of a barrage 
across the head of each branch about six miles 
below. Mohammed Ali approved and planned 
to take the stones of the pyramids for this pur- 



iHGYPT. 273 

pose until he was persuaded that they could 
quarry stone much cheaper from Cairo. He 
stubbornly yielded and the work was begun in 
1833, and carried on slowly till 1835, when the 
whole matter was dropped and thrown over- 
board. Abbass Pasha in 1861 succeeded in fin- 
ishing the Rosetta Barrage at a heavy cost, and 
in '67 the main gates burst out and this enter- 
prise was a failure. But later Moguel's Bar- 
rage was made a success, and one could not de- 
scribe the greatness of the income from this dam 
which Avas able to hold up a head of thirteen 
feet of water. But it does not now contain 
nearly all of the water needed for the cotton 
fields and wheat acreage throughout Egypt. 
Mr. Willeoeks showed by accurate statistics that 
at least one-third of the land of Egypt in the 
irrigatable regions was undeveloped and barren. 
He proposed the Aswan Reservoir and was op- 
posed by archaeological students in all of his 
plans. Finally, after years of dispute, Messrs. 
Aird & Co. signed a contract with the Egyptian 
government to build the Aswan dam for $10,- 
000,000, and it was to be completed in 1903. 
But thanks to the company, I saw it nearly fin- 
ished in the year 1901. But Messrs. Aird & Co. 
will receive no pay until 1903, when the debt 
will be paid off in thirty half year annuities. 
The canals and drains from this are to be com- 



274 EGYPT. 

pleted at the same time as the dam, and will cost 
$10,000,000 more. But a conservative estimate 
says that the revenues of this country will be 
increased $13,750,000 annually. 

The dam stands in the first cataract, and holds 
up the water twenty-five feet above the low water 
level. Its length is 6468 feet with a width of 82 
feet at the bottom and 26 feet at the top. It is 
builded of fine large blocks of hard rose granite, 
and if ever I saw a beautiful and substantial, 
well-braced stone work, it is this. The dam is 
pierced by 180 openings or gates, and is at the 
point of greatest depth 92 feet high. The gates 
are 23 feet by 6 feet. Three locks are to be built 
and the navigation channel will be on the west 
side of the river. This looks to be the beginning 
of Egyptian progress whereby it is to become 
one of the most fertile regions of the earth. It 
seems that all this barren sand with nothing of 
turf or vegetation, save a few dried and starved 
sage brush, springs into most productive, quick 
life as soon as the sedimental waters of the Nile 
quench its stark thirst. And you can't rob the 
Nile, for it draws into the Mediterranean alone 
each year something like 160,000,000 tons of de- 
posit. But this barren soil seems to have virtue 
in it if you give it water without its sediment. 
You can mark an abundant crop, in these fields 
of darkest green wheat, laden with hanging 



EGYPT. 275 

heads, where the water touches. One inch from 
this irrigation line a weed would not grow. 

The California banker, R. J. R. Aden, Mr. 
Ferrie of Utica, Mr. Beatty of Bainbridge, N. Y., 
Miss Grace Hilbourn of California, and Mrs! 
Hansaw of California, and myself, had hired a 
boat to shoot the rapids at this cataract and row 
into Aswan, but our servant was too slow, and 
the boat just shot out of our sight with another 
party as we came to the dock. However, about 
twenty natives dove into the rapids, swam down 
through them several times, and came out not 
only alive, but shining with a darkened glow, 
and had faces knit with smiles for the fifty on- 
looking tourists who gave them a penny apiece 
for the circus. 

The Arab Mohammed history is singular, to 
say the least, and what I shall write will be his 
history as understood in his own country, with- 
out prejudice. The prayer he composed and 
teaches his disciples is profound if rightly di- 
rected. 

^'God of mercy, God of grace. 

Lord of all creation 's race, 

To thy holy name we raise 

Prayer, to thee, 0, God be praise. 

Prince of that dread judgment day ; 

Thee we serve, to thee we pray ; 

Help us, lead us in the way. 

Way of those whom thou hast blest, 

Upon whom no wrath shall rest, 

Who from right go not astray. Amen." 



276 EGYPT. 

Mohammed, commonly known as the Prophet, 
was born at Mecca, 570 A. D. His ancestors 
were of high rank in the city. His parents were 
poor and his inheritance consisted of five camels, 
a flock of goats, and a slave girl. He was reared 
by his grandfather, and learned the merchant's 
trade from his uncle. His mother died when he 
was twelve years of age, and his uncle took him 
to Syria. At the age of twenty, he visited the 
Fair at Okas, near Mecca, and here he heard the 
Arab poets declaim and met the Christian Jews. 
At the age of 25 he began to do business as a 
merchant for a wealthy lady of forty years, and 
married her. When he was forty years old, he 
began to formulate a system of religion for the 
Arabs. He became convinced that he was des- 
tined by God to carry out that reform. He was 
often discouraged and threatened suicide. And 
then he felt Gabriel appear to him, and entrusted 
him with the mission of reforming the religion 
of the Arabs. When he was 45 years of age, he 
had collected enough followers to provoke oppo- 
sition and persecution about Mecca. Then be- 
coming discouraged, he came to tolerate idols, 
and was about to give up his mission when his 
wife died, at the age of 70. A month later his 
uncle died. In a few weeks he married a widow 
called Sanda, and betrothed himself at the same 
time to a child seven years old. He made con- 



EGYPT. 277 

verts at Medina that year, and built a mosque 
where his camel first knelt down. At the ago 
of 53 he married Aisha, aged ten. His bride 
carried her toys to his home and he comforted 
her by playing with her. In that year he ceased 
to pray toward Jerusalem and ordered his fol- 
lowers to pray toward Mecca. When he was 55 
years old he married Hafsa, the daughter of 
Omar. In this year the battle of Uhud occurred 
in which Mohammed was wounded. In his 56th 
year he married Zenab, the daughter of Khuze- 
ma, and a month later Umm Salma, the widow 
of Abu Salma; four months later he married 
Zennabbint-Jahsh, and later in the year he mar- 
ried another wife, Juwerya. The year he was 
57, wars took place which gave him power and 
followers, and the people of Mecca yielded large- 
ly to him. In the same year he betrothed him- 
self to Umm-Habuba, and conquered Khebar, 
where he married Sofia, another man's wife. 
The Jews bewitched him and he went to Mecca in 
his fifty-ninth year and married Memuna, and 
his power increased in the city, he having been 
successful in many raids. In his 60th year, 
George Makawkas sent him two sisters, Shirin 
and Maryam, the latter he married, and she bore 
him a son called Ibrahim, who died the same 
year. In his 61st year many tribes yielded to 
Mohammed, and he thought all children of the 



278 EGYPT. 

Arabs, whether Christians or not, ought to sub- 
mit. In the 62nd year of his age he ordered an 
expedition against Syria, but died early in the 
month of June, In personal appearance he was 
of medium height, had an upright carriage, and 
walked fast. He laughed often, had a ready wit 
and good memory. This paragraph needs no 
remarks. If you think Mohammedanism is of 
any help to people, talk with the Mohammedans 
themselves, as I have, in private. Go and visit, 
visit their land. 

This is one of the songs learned on our trip up 
the Nile:— 

They both to church together went; 

And on the sermon they were bent; 

The preacher spoke with fluency 

Of Pharisee and Sadd-u-cee. 

They home from church together walked. 

And of the sermon they both talked ; 

He said to her, why don 't you see ? 

We're Phar-i-see and Sadd-u-cee. 

She turned on him her dark, brown eyes. 

And with a look of vexed surprise— 

He quickly hastened to aver, 

'^I am your constant worshiper." 

"My dear," said he, ''why don't you see? 

You are my darling Phar-i-see ; 

And just because you don't love me. 

And that's what makes me Sadd-u-cee." 



Bible Land. 



HOLY LAND. 281 

CHAPTER XX. 

BIBLE LAND. 

Ho IV We Came Here— Jaffa— Yassor—Ben- 
dagor — R&maJi — Lyclda — Ramleh — Gezer— 
Soreh — Kirjath Jeareni — Jerusalem — Its Walls 
—Its Gates— Solomon's Quarries— Entrance to 
Inner City— Church of Holy Sepnlchre — Cal- 
vary and Discussion. 

V\ /y E came here by steamboat from Luxor to 
\Y/ to Assiut on the Nile. Then to catch 
our train out of Cairo for Port Said 
and thus the boat for Jaffa, we must take the 
train from Assiut. A jolly party consisting of 
gentlemen sirs Ferry, Beatty, Aden, Pennock 
and Mrs. Hansaw took one compartment of the 
car, and in spite of the Egyptian dust, which 
you always pay for when you buy a rail- 
road ticket in Egypt, we passed the hours 
in song and chat quite leisurely, until just 
at evening something went thud, as if a car 
truckhad smashed. The air as quick as a flash was 
rife with camel breath. I said, ''We have run into 
a camel. " They laughed. The train halted and we 
found the parts of the camel blocking the trucks 
of the first car. The American railroad would 
have brushed the camel off as if it were a fly, but 
in Egypt they have no cow-catcher, just a blunt 



282 HOLY LAND. 

square end, and run only twenty miles an hour 
at their best. They were seemingly frightened 
at this little accident, and just crawled along for 
the next twenty miles, landing us in Cairo at 
about ten in the evening. 

Our fine and venerable conductor, Mr. Clau- 
sen, met us, assisted us to the beautiful Hotel 
Continental for the night; started us the next 
day for Port Said by train, 125 miles. Our 
party now consisted of two sisters, the Misses 
Youngs,, Rev. F. F. Carpenter of Maryland, his 
friend, Mr. Noah Webster, Mr. R. J. R. Aden 
and myself and Conductor Clausen. Boarding 
the steamboat Dakahlieh at 8 o'clock p. m. we 
found Miss and Mrs. Hilbourn on the same route. 
The boat was loaded and we were crammed into 
bunks like cookies into a jar. We were awake 
with the birds, ready to disembark at Jaffa early 
Monday morning. 

Jaffa is still under the Jewish curse. It is a 
small town of 5,000 people, crowded into hovels 
bordering on narrow, nasty streets. The mod- 
ern town has nothing for you. But it preserves 
a few historic places of sacred interest, which in 
spite of desolation make the heart sing:— 

''Holy, holy, holy, Lord, God Almighty, 
Early in the morning our prayer shall rise to 

thee ; 
Holy, holy, holy, merciful and mighty, 
God in three persons, blessed trinity ! ' ' 



HOLY LAND. 283 

From the sea Jaffa rises like an amphitheatre 
and has no harbor. The port you can only make 
in good weather, and yet it is the oldest in the 
world. Here tradition builds the "ark," but 
only tradition. And here are the marks of the 
chain on the rock, which bound Andromeda, and 
here Hiram, king of Tyre, brought the cedars of 
Lebanon for the building of the ' ' Temple. ' ' 

We saw the foundation of the house of Simon, 
the tanner, and walked on the roof where Peter 
had the vision and heard the voice saying, ' ' Rise, 
Peter, kill and eat ! " Here he called Tabitha to 
life. Here Jonah embarked for Nineveh. In 
this city 1799 Napoleon butchered 4,000 Turk- 
ish soldiers after the memorable siege. 

Our destiny is now Jerusalem, about thirty- 
five miles southeast by a narrow gauge railroad. 
The first to greet our eyes was the beautiful flow- 
er valley of Sharon, from which was composed 
the song, ''Rose of Sharon, thy rich fragrance 
fills the air in which I move. ' ' And sure enough 
we beheld the roses, gathered some and were 
sweetened by the whole valley's fragrance. 

Next we beheld ''Yassor," where Samson put 
the flame of fire to the jackalls' or foxes' tails. 
Jud. 15:4. 

Then we ran along by Bendagor, home of the 
God of the Philistines. Judges 16 :23. Then we 
saw Ramah a little distance from us, the home of 



284 HOLY LAND. 

Joseph of Arimathea. Lydda appeared on a 
little distance, where Peter healed the palsied 
Aeneas on his way to Jaffa. Here also are the 
ruins of the church of St. George, which are so 
often referred to in the writings of the Crusad- 
ers. Here also is Ramleh, conquered by the Cru- 
saders in 1099, but regained by Saladin in 1187. 
We saw Gezer and the valley of Aschelon which 
Pharaoh gave to his daughter, Solomon 's wife. I 
Kings, 9 :16. We passed through the valley 
Soreh, where Samson met his ''Waterloo" in 
Delilah, and you can find none like her here to- 
day. I think he took them all. We now ran 
along through the plain and saw Kirjath-Jearem, 
where the Ark rested twenty years. And a little 
on the right we saw the traditional tomb of Sam- 
son, which looks like a snow white dome. Then 
on the left Soreh, the birthplace. Jud. 13. The 
hills of Judali were just crowded with spring 
flowers, among which are the roses of Sharon, 
lillies, blue bells and yellow and white stars. 
Among the flowers along the hillside the goats 
were feeding, guarded by shepherds, and here 
and there are overhanging caves of lime rock. 
And now we are slowly winding through a deep, 
narrow gorge, the bed of an old stream. Ps. 
95 :4. And now, crossing the valley of roses, we 
behold for the first time Mt. Zion, the Holy City, 
the City of David, the New Jerusalem. 



HOLY LAND. 285 

Jerusalem has an effect on one not to be told. 
Though unexpressed, it leaves a deep, abiding 
influence. So much of history, of jubilee, of 
death, of mystery and deepest reality, is cen- 
tered here. You think seriously, tread lightly, 
and sing joyously. At our approach we lifted 
our voices in the chorus : — 

"Jerusalem, Jerusalem, lift up your gates and 
sing ! 
Hossana, in the highest ! hosanna to your King ! 
Hosanna, in the highest ! hosanna, to your 
King!" 

The city stands on a mountain summit, 2,610 
feet above the Mediterranean, 3,922 feet above 
the river Jordan. Like Rome, it has five hills. 
It is surrounded on the east, south and west by 
valleys. And by their depth a complete fortifi- 
cation is formed. Psalms 25 :2. As the moun- 
tains are around about Jerusalem, so is the Lord 
round about his people, henceforth, even forever. 
The sacred singer must have referred to "Oli- 
vet," the "Mt. of Corruption," and the "Hill of 
Evil Council." They all stand near with inter- 
vening valleys, Jehosaphat, Kedron and Hinnon, 
which form a mighty defense. The only ap- 
proach for early warriors was from the north, 
and there the walls and battlements were greatly 
strengthened, and the gates securely guarded. 

Jerusalem has no suburbs as many cities con- 



^86 lIOt.Y LAND. 

tain. Surrounded by massive, towering walls, 
lacking orange groves, fig orchards, mulberry 
trees, and enclosed gardens, she has guarded 
gates, a few degrading huts cling to her walls on 
the side of the Hill of Scandal. In the days of 
Christ, the city possessed two walls, one around 
Mt. Zion and the other enclosing Mr. Akra. But 
after the crucifixion, by Herod's order, a third 
wall was placed around the city. The walls had 
been demolished and restored many times until 
the year 1542 A. D. The present wall was built 
by the order of the Sultan Suleiman. Constant- 
ly reconstructed from the old, broken down 
walls, the present one contains blocks of stone 
of every age of the city from David down to the 
crusaders. 

The present wall is about three miles in cir- 
cumference, varied in height from 25 to 40 feet, 
and is from ten to fifteen feet thick. This wall 
is nearly two miles less in circumference than the 
ancient one. The wall is backed up well, and we 
enjoyed climbing to the last brace, about four 
feet below the outside, and walking the turrets 
as watchmen on the walls. This is the place re-, 
ferred too, doubtless, by the sacred writer. 
Where the wall joins the harem, extending from 
the southeast corner, here are great stones and 
arches, likely as old as Solomon's time. And in 
the southeast corner of the harem there are some 



HOLY LAND. 287 

sixteen courses of stones, that seemingly have 
never been disturbed. These are eight feet 
thick, four feet high, and nineteen feet long. On 
this turn is the precious corner stone, in the 
form of a beautiful and virtuous woman, per- 
haps significant of the Messiah. I. Peter 2:6; 
Isa. 28 :16 ; and Ps. 144 :12. On this corner like- 
ly stood the pinnacle of the Temple, where Satan 
tempted Christ to cast himself down. Matt. 4 :5, 
,6. The fall here would have been 310 feet. 

We entered the western side of the city at the 
"Jaffa Gate," where the main entrance has al- 
ways been impassable for carriages, but which 
the German Emperor demanded thrown down 
before he visited the city. The wall remains 
torn away and we rode in and landed at the 
Grand Hotel, just inside the opening. The 
President of the United States ought to come 
here and order the whole wall torn away. For 
the yoke of Turkish rule and exclusion needs 
rending eternally. Here a part of this gate is 
David's Tower, strongly buttressed and thick- 
walled, running up a little south of the Jaffa 
Gate. Here David watched its valued treasures, 
outwitting all of its enemies. 

The Golden Gate, thought to be the ancient 
Beautiful Gate where Peter and John healed the 
cripple, is on the eastern side of the city, over 
against the Mt. of Olives, and is walled up. It 



288 HOLY LAND. 

is beautiful, double portaled, spanned by arches 
richly ornamented with entablature and Corin- 
thian columns of polished marble, decked with 
elegant capitals. The Mohammedans think 
when this gate is opened the destroyer will come 
and take the city from them. 

Of the remaining five gates, perhaps Damascus 
Gate outdoes them all. It is the oldest gate of 
the city and strongest, guarded by turrets and 
battlements. Its architecture indicates not only 
beauty, painstaking and labor, but Saracen 
style. This opens to the road leading to Damas- 
cus, and doubtless out through this Saul went 
leading his cruel band of persecutors, to return 
a revolutionized being, with his own glory swal- 
lowed up in the majesty of the Divine. This 
gate is still guarded by four Turkish soldiers, 
which are ever on the alert. 

The other gates are the ' ' Gate of Flowers, ' ' on 
the northeast. Gate of the Western Africans, on 
the south, the walled up Gate of St. Stephen on 
the east, and the most quiet of all, ''Zion's 
Gate, ' ' on the northwest. 

One of the most certain proofs that Jerusalem 
has been utterly destroyed is that none of its old 
gates remain. You will remember how it had 
on the north three gates, on the south three gates, 
on the east three gates, on the west three gates. 



HOLY LAND. 289 

The old gates and city doubtless lie some thirty 
feet below the present city's foundation. 

Solomon's Quarries were entered by the skill 
of the ' ' Cooks, ' ' as they always find entrance to 
the most difficult places, and Mr. Yanni Paulo con- 
ducted us to the marvelous cave beneath the city. 
We entered this cave just east of the Damascus 
Gate, on the north side of the city. This en- 
trance was discovered by a missionary's dog, 
drawn to the place by the scent of the bones of 
animals. We entered a party of six, with light- 
ed wax tapers, and at a distance of one hundred 
feet we began to descend rapidly. The air was 
stifling and dainp. Finding we were in a cave 
three thousand feet in circumference, one thou- 
sand feet in length, and 500 feet in breadth, the 
party decided to turn back. We saw the quarry 
clippings, and found the marks of picks and 
chisels, where assuredly large rocks had been dug 
out and quarried. We are satisfied that the tem- 
ple stone were dug from this place and conveyed 
noiselessly to their places, according to I Kings, 
6:7. 

The five hills, Zion, Moriah, Ophel, by inspired 
writers, and Akra, Bezetha, by Josephus, are 
described Jer. 26:18; Josephus, p. 528. Mt. 
Zion is most often referred to by the Bible. For 
out of Zion shall go forth the law and the word 
of the Lord from Jerusalem. Here the promise 

10 



290 HOLY LAND. 

of the Holy Spirit was fulfilled. Acts, 2 :2-39 ; 
Jno. 22 :25. Here Christ ate the Last Supper, 
not far from the ''Tomb of David." Now a 
mosque covers the place. Here also he ate the 
Passover with his disciples. Luke, 22 :12. Here 
he washed the disciples ' feet with humble Chris- 
tian dignity. Jno. 13 :12. 

But before we enter into the inner secret 
places of the city, I want to say it has suffered 
many sieges. It is under the bane and curse of 
God. We must not expect too much at present. 
The city is in the Sultan's power, and hideously 
locked away from all development and Christian 
light. But take hope and interest, for the light 
is breaking, and when once the Anglo-Saxon 
race through God's good providence breaks the 
bands of the oppressor, Jerusalem and Judea, 
with their mountains of silver, gold and iron, 
will break open and yield their wealth. The 
children will leap from their hiding places into 
the lap of luxury, enlightenment, liberty, seize 
their opportunities and go with us up the shining 
way of holiness, to the new Jerusalem, where all 
wailing and tears and leprosy and poverty and 
lust shall forever be exclusive and excluded. 
These last named faults now prevail with the 
narrow streets, cankerous filth and heedless 
crimes. 

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is central 




CHURCH OF HOLY SEPULCHRE 



tlOLY LAND. " ^Di 

and in order visited first. You will feel with all 
who visit it a sense of reverence and respect for 
the place. Many enter most indifferently, but 
they fail to come from its scenes untouched by a 
feeling of sin, deep debt, and unrelenting com- 
passion upon our Lord Jesus Christ. Besides, 
it is Easter morning, and preferring to attend 
this church in preference to others, where thou- 
sands upon thousands will gather this day from 
every nation, I will take you with me. Instead 
of listening to idle conversation on board our 
ship, my pen flows on. My heart is light. The 
eastern sun pours over the strait between Sicily 
and Italy, and I see Mt. Aetna, snow-capped, 
rising into the clear ether 10,872 feet and only 
two miles on either side we see cities Patti and 
Barcelona. We approach the picturesque water 
front of charming Messina, a city of many 
sieges, containing a population of some 125,000 ' 
well kept people in need of intellectual oppor- 
tunities. 

And now a skiff has approached us as we 
anchor, containing an orchestra of three violins, 
a guitar and harp. Their music puts all my soul 
in song, but the music of my heart this morning 
is more than some catchy ditty, much deeper. 
"He is risen !" charms my soul, and I can almost 
catch the voices of angels joining in the song:— 



292 IlOLY LAND. 

''List to the story of the Christ who for thy soul, 
Left all his glory, died to make thee whole ; 
On the cross he suffered, bled and died on Cal- 
vary, 
Thus for thee, He purchased life so full and 
free. 
"Anthems are ringing over sea and sky and 
shore, 
Glad music bringing singing o'er and o'er; 
Of a Savior risen for the stone is rolled away, 
From the grave's dark prison. He is risen to- 
day. 
' ' Jesus is calling ! 
Sweet and low he calls for thee, 
Jesus is calling ! 
Wilt thou come and see ? " 

From Grand Hotel, near David's Tower and 
Jaffa Gate, we walk carefully over the somewhat 
uneven pavement, but smoothly worn way, under 
the narrow and arch-covered lane, called David 
street, and to the right down Christian street, we 
come in about three minutes to a court. This 
court is fifty feet by sixty feet, and filled with 
traders and vendors, displaying the inevitable 
life extender. This court is filled with the 
tramp, tramp of Russian Pilgrims, mongrels 
from Siberia, and peasants from Asia of all sorts, 
and mixed among their scattered forces are happy 
well dressed parties from England, America, 
Germany, Italy, France, Wales and Scotland. 
Doubtless over one million people will visit this 



HOLY LAND. 293 

place this Holy Day. But what we have re- 
ferred to appeared on Tuesday, March 2, 1901. 

We have the invitation, as did the Marys, 
' ' Come see the place where the Lord lay. ' ' Also 
to go quickly and tell his disciples that he is 
risen from the dead. Matt. 28:6-7. (Also Acts 
1 :9-13 ought here to be read. ) Into this sepul- 
chre we will now go from the court which ap- 
proaches the holy place from the south. Down a 
few stone steps, worn deep by the tramp of mil- 
lions, we enter the edifice hard to describe, but 
its nave has a length of 300 feet east and west, 
and its transept is 180 feet north and south, with 
a ceiling 80 feet high. Here on one side is the 
Greek chapel of elegant burnishing and furnish- 
ing. Its nave measures 98 feet by 40 feet. The 
walls are wood, but here are noble arches, high 
altars and stalls for singers. In the western 
part of this chapel is the great rotunda of the 
church, 99 feet in diameter. This is encircled 
by eighteen grand pillars, supporting a massive 
and graceful dome. Here in the very center of 
this circle, directly beneath the dome, is the 
reputed sepulchre of our Lord. Like a temple, 
it is twenty feet in length, ten feet in breadth, 
and nearly twenty feet high. It is enriched by 
pillars of marble, cornices and mouldings without, 
and the top is finished like a king's crown. We 
crowd around among the pilgrims who are kiss- 



294 HOLY LAND. 

ing the stone of imetion and the sides of the 
tomb, crawling up the steps on the eastern end of 
the tomb, osculating every stair, bowing their 
heads, uttering groanings that cannot be under- 
stood. (But it is sweet to think that God hears 
them.) One by one the steps are left behind, 
and we enter the door one at a time to the inner 
vault, seven feet by six feet.' On the north side 
of this chamber, enclosed with marble, is the 
tomb, about three feet above the vaulted marble 
Savior. Four at a time can enter. Not a word 
after the resurrection, and with the thought, 
is spoken. You couldn 't speak. You think ser- 
iously, but with joyous hope and expectation. A 
glowing love sweeps over the whole being, for he 
is not here, but risen. Joyous tears sweep down 
your cheeks unbidden, and you do not chase them 
away. They are not false now. No one can be 
false here. Realness reigns supreme, and the 
supreme rules your every motion unless you are 
prison chained for eternal gloom. You pass out 
and no one speaks until a friend says to you, 
"What a feeling sweeps over me?" 

Immediately at your left is the stone where 
Christ was anointed for the burial by the precious 
hands and the costly ointment. And just across 
is the stone representing the place where Mary 
stood, while the body was prepared for burial. 
Now we look upon the gladdest spot in the whole 



HOLY LAND. 295 

universe. Just where the Virgin saw our Savior 
after the resurrection, and with the thought, 
our spirit rises. ''We shall be caught up to- 
gether with them in the air, ' ' and so shall we be 
forever with the Lord. A short column stands 
near by, indicating the place of scourging, and a 
pilgrim touches it, pledging himself to be true to 
the Man of Sorrows. Now we behold the sword 
and outfit of Sir Godfrey de Bouillon and his 
brother Baldwin, who suffered at the hands of 
the Greeks, for commending the rights of their 
rivals. This place is called the Chapel of Adam. 
Then on in our course we visit the ' ' Centurion 's 
Tomb," who pierced the side of our Eedeemer. 
Now we come to Calvary, the place of the cruci- 
fixion. Under the altar which marks the place 
is the natural rock. Here is the hole in the rock 
two feet in depth where the cross was dropped 
in. And now the red rock that was rent from 
the violent shaking of the earth at His giving up 
the Ghost, is pointed out to us. 

You remember Christ was buried in the Sepul- 
chre of Joseph of Arimathea,and turning we pass 
by the corner of Christ's tomb and back some 
fifteen feet, and descend into the real tomb dug 
for Joseph of Arimathea. It is a large cave dug 
out of the solid rock, with the stairway and large 
hall in the side of which he was buried, as the 
custom demanded. Then we pass into the chapel 



296 HOLY LAND. 

of the ''Division of Vestments," and remember 
how for his garments they did cast lots. Then 
we speed to the Chapel of St. Helena, which con- 
tains the chair she sat in while she superintended 
the search for the cross. Down again some 
dozen steps and we are in the cavern where the 
mother of Constantine is said to have found the 
three crosses, and the title which Pilate scribed 
was broken off. From the sides of the rocks 
water is dripping, which has percolated the rocks 
from the surface. The monks assured us the 
rocks were weeping for the dead Savior and that 
these are holy tears. 

Whether this church covers the Golgotha, the 
crucifixion and the scourging, we are not certain. 
But this we know. That since Constantine this 
church has been builded and rebuilded on the 
same grounds, and refers to the same places. 
The walls of the city have been changed so that 
reckoning from the present location of the walls 
this place is not according to Scripture outside 
of the walls. But one thing is certain, it was in 
Jerusalem, and not far from this place. The 
Golgotha of Gordon I studied, and brought home 
a photograph of the same. His reasoning is 
studied, scientific, historic and Biblical concern- 
ing the situation outside of the walls. But when 
you have followed his traces out, walked over the 
ground carefully, and considered the evidences 



HOLY LAND. 297 

from every side, you are furnished no better com- 
fort, proof or glory than is furnished by tradi- 
tion and the location of now 1500 years of pil- 
grimage to the aged and well-worn Golgotha. 
If we are to seek idol worship of places instead 
of the charmed presence and serious sufferings of 
our Lord, then with sufficient proof we might 
remove the aged land marks. But not till some- 
thing better is found can we wisely turn our 
hearts from old Calvary's brow. And the question 
comes: ''Do we worship the unknown as the 
Athenians, or is it the known God" we have de- 
clared unto us who dwelleth not in the temples 
made with hands, but in us whose temple we are ? 
We are reminded of what Bishop Newman 
wrote: "Whatever may have been the tempo- 
rary interest attached to Golgotha and to the 
tomb of Joseph, to the idle and curious, to the 
friend and foe of Jesus, it is evident from the 
inspired narrative that the sacred writer neither 
shared the excitement, nor considered it incum- 
bent on them to describe with minuteness the 
scene of their Master 's death and burial. ' ' They 
were too much absorbed in recording the unde- 
niable fact of our Lord's extraordinary expatia- 
tory sufferings, and the glory of his resurrection, 
to entertain their readers with an accurate ac- 
count of the rock on which he expired and of the 
sepulchre from which he triumphed so glorious- 



298 HOLY LAND. 

ly. They forgot in the event the place. The 
actor, and not the stage, is the burden of their 
historic lines. The simple story runs as follows : 
^'They led him away to crucify him." Matt. 
28 :31. ''When they came to the place which is 
called Calvary there they crucified him." Luke 
23:33. "The place where Jesus was crucified 
was nigh to the city." John 19:20. ''Now in 
the place where he was crucified, there was a 
garden, and in the garden a new sepulchre, 
where was never man yet laid." This sums up 
their record. They were most familiar with the 
place. But from the book of Matthew to Revela- 
tion the apostles were silent to indifference as to 
places. Had they deemed it important, they 
might have told the exact gate out of which 
Christ passed and on which side of the city the 
Son of God was slain. The invitation of the 
Marys to come, see the place where the Lord lay, 
was not to enshrine the tomb, but to unshrine it, 
by convincing them by their own sight ''that he 
is not here/' for he is risen as he said. They 
were not told to linger on the spot, to worship, 
kiss or visit it. (Would that all who have Cal- 
varys and Golgothas might gather these words.) 
But to go quickly and tell his disciples that he 
is risen from the dead. Matt. 28 :67. We never 
read of their return to the tomb, and history 
records that even the crosses were forgotten. 



HOLY LAND. 299 

Their song was, ''Bless the Lord, 0, my soul! 
and forget not all his benefits ; who redeemeth 
thy life from destruction, who crowneth thee 
with loving kindnesses and tender mercies. ' ' 
Is it not enough for us to sing : — 

''On Calvary's brow, my Savior died, 
'Twas there my Lord was crucified ;. 
'Twas there he bore the agony 
And purchased there my pardon free.'' 



Jerusalem Continued. 



HOLY LAND. 303 

CHAPTER XXI. 

JERUSALEM CONTINUED. 

Clans of Jerusalem— Solomon's Temple— His- 
tory— Description— Blosque of Omar— Cave— 
Stahles—Lepers— Journey to Bethlehem— Beth- 
lehem— Grotto of Nativity. 

EACH clan has its quarter in Jerusalem, and 
clings quite reservedly to its own blood and 
place. Here are Turks, Jews, Greeks, Mo- 
hammedans and Christians. While Jerusalem is 
variously estimated in numbers from 50,000 to 
200,000, and no one seems certain' of its exact 
population, one becomes stranded, and wonders 
if people under a Sultan cannot count. In ask- 
ing the question, I received the following reply 
from our American consul, Mr. Merrill : ' ' Jeru- 
salem numbers about 50,000 ; 30,000 Mohamme- 
dans, 12,000 Jews, 8,000 Greeks." Mrs. Merrill, 
the consul's wife, is a very genial lady, and 
living at the hotel, she makes herself pleasantly 
felt among the guests. She gave me an hour's 
chat one evening concerning the peculiar inner 
workings of society in and about Jerusalem, 
which was most desirable and interesting. Mr. 
Merrill is quite conversant, but like men of 
affairs, absorbed with many little cares. 

Solomon's Temple! Will that be forgotten? 



304 HOLT LAND. 

I almost hear you whisper while I spell out this 
brief pen sketch. The Temple was first built in 
1004 B. C. and at that time the Ark was taken 
into it. In the year 588 B. C. Nebuchadnezzar, 
the King of Babylon, took many of the Jews 
prisoners, burned the city and broke down the 
walls. In 536 B. C, Cyrus, King of Persia, 
asked the people to rebuild the walls, and return 
to their own country once more, but Artaxerxes 
prevented them. 

Darius became king, and again ordered the 
Jews to rebuild. Sanballat nearly prevented 
this by his active enmity— Josephus, 233. But 
part of the men, acting as watchmen on the walls 
while others toiled, the enterprise was accom- 
plished 515 B. C. Again polluted and demol- 
ished by Antiochus, 167 B. C, Herod restored it 
17 B. C. and finished it grandly. 

When Titus, coming in the year 29 A. D., with 
his Roman soldiers, besieged it, burned it, and 
commanded his soldiers to plow it as a field. 
Then again, as the Jews planned to restore it, 
he sent his soldiers and they were scattered 
abroad to all the ends of the earth. 

A Brief Description of the Temple may recall 
some of the things long borne in mind. The 
present temple area is a fine enclosure, compris- 
ing thirty-six acres, encompassed by a well built 
wall nine feet thick at the base, and three feet at 



HOLY LAND. 305 

the crest, and varying in height from fifty to 
eighty feet outside, and from ten to fifteen feet 
on the interior, according to the evenness or un- 
evenness of the mountainous ground. On the 
east and south its walls are the city's walls, and 
it is only necessary to speak of those on the 
north and west. The north wall commences run- 
ning westward one hundred feet from ''St. 
Stephen's Gate," extending nearly 1060 feet, 
with buildings attached to the side and top. 
This wall is now some 600 feet north of its origi- 
nal line, according to the good authority of Jose- 
phus. On this wall at its western end, extending 
370 feet, is the irregularly built Pasha's Palace. 
From the Governor's House the western wall ex- 
tends southward 1,528 feet, and is almost hidden 
from view by the shops and homes built against 
it. The western wall has seven entrances. One 
of these is the Gatees-Silsilah, and near it is the 
Turkish Divans Hall, and is identical with the 
ancient Jewish Sanhedrim. This building is 
square, with arched ceiling, and flat domes, ap- 
pearing aged and worn. But if not disturbed, 
it will stand the winters for many ages to come. 
Here the apostles were arrested for trial. Acts 
4:6. And here stood that great Gamaliel, "the 
doctor of the law, ' ' had in reputation among all 
the people, "and advised the council touching 
these things." 



306 HOLY LAND. 

Next to this building is the ''Jews' Wailing 
Place/' where every Friday afternoon the de- 
scendants of Abraham meet to bewail their once 
mighty but now fallen nation. Here they pray, 
read and howl hideously, and we saw them kiss- 
ing the wall and asking God to come and restore 
the Temple and his people again. But alas! I 
think if they would honestly work, try to clothe 
and feed their half naked and starved children, 
give them a little culture, and thus do something 
to restore their entire loss, as well as wail and 
pray for lost, and deservedly lost glory, they 
would be forgiven and regain their glory much 
sooner. However, my heart is touched, and I 
still hope for their eventual and speedy restora- 
tion. They read here the pathetic pleadings of 
Isa. 66 :9-12 and Ps. 79 :l-5. 

The Temple ground is now an oblong quad- 
rangle, 1,600 feet north and south, and 1,000 
feet east and west. In Herod's time it was pro- 
longed, but originally it was nearly square, ac- 
cording to Josephus' description. The wonder- 
ful "Tower of Antonia" stood just north of the 
old line of the Temple. Herod beautified it with 
baths, courts and porticos, as well as greatly 
enlarged and embellished it throughout. This 
was the fortress of the temple and contained the 
military guard. 

During the time of the Romans it was* used as 



HOLY LAND. 307 

the seat of public justice. Here "Pilate's Stair- 
case," leading to his judgment hall, formerly 
stood. Near here is the "Ecce Homo" arch, 
marking the spot where Pilate having brought 
forth our Lord, said, ''Behold the man!" Jno. 
19, 5. 

The Latins, Greeks and Moslems, all supersti- 
tious, have built some shrines, commemorated to 
prophet, or saint, within the Temple area. A 
graceful minaret marks the place where Solomon 
stood and prayed after the Temple was complet- 
ed. But the great attraction to the visitor's eye 
in this area is the Mosque of Omar, of which our 
friend with the kodak secured a splendid pic- 
ture. To enter this beautiful structure we will- 
ingly yield to putting on the holy slippers. This 
mosque is the pride of the Mohammedan, for it 
commemorates the capture of the city by Omar 
636 A. D. The Jew contemns it. The Christian 
looks upon it with grief. This whole field has 
been a field of blood and fountain of tears to all 
alike. 

In 1099 A. D. when the city yielded to the 
victorious Crusaders, who in faith fought des- 
perately, and died in multitudes, there were 
rivers of blood. The Mohammedans retreated 
within this mosque, from which they were driven 
With exasperating slaughter. Some climbed to 
the summit of the dome, and clinging to the gild- 



308 HOLY LAND. 

ed spire, were picked off with arrows, as in sav- 
age warfare. Many jumped into the mammoth 
cistern underneath and were drowned, or sabred 
to death. The 71,000 slain ' ' caused the blood to 
flow ankle deep." The Christians put the Cross 
on the dome in place of the crescent. And the 
Catholics of the West called it ''Temple Dom- 
ini" and its guard the "Knights Templar." 
But the proud Saladin, in less than a century, 
drove the Crusaders from the city and made the 
mosque Mohammedan, instead of Christian. 
The mosque consists of walls, a drum, and a 
dome. The walls are octagon, 170 feet in diam- 
eter, and 46 feet in height. It has fifty-six 
pointed windows of Tudor style, and the light 
streaming through the stained glass rivals the 
rainbow in brilliancy and beauty. The drum on 
top of this is thirty-six feet high, and contains 
sixteen fine windows. On this the dome rests, 
towering seventy feet higher, and a graceful 
spire crests the dome. The marble, of incasing, 
in the lower sections, is of all manner of hues, 
and produces a most beautiful effect to the taste- 
ful eye. 

There are four doorways, and each in its quar- 
ter of the compass. Two corridors grace its 
space in circles. One is thirteen feet wide, and 
has eight massive piers, and sixteen Corinthian 
columns, connected at the top by a slanting arch- 



HOLY LAND. 309 

itrave. The other is some thirty feet wide, built 
of twelve columns and four piers from which 
rise the arches to support the graceful dome. 
The columns are polished, of a purple hue, and 
porphyry with graced and gilded capitals. Gilt 
stucco covers the sides and ceiling, which are 
penciled with Arabic characters. Here was the 
threshing floor of Oman. David purchased it 
to offer thereon a sacrifice to stay the hand of the 
avenging messenger. 2 Chron. 4:1. And here 
the altar of burnt offerings rested until the de- 
struction of the second Temple. 

''The Noble Cave" beneath it we entered. It 
was once the cesspool of blood from the burnt 
offerings. This cave is irregular in shape, eight 
feet high, and six in circumference. In the cen- 
ter of this cave is a marble star said to cover the 
mouth of Hades. 

The El Aksa you pass from the south entrance 
of this mosque over a paved walk, lined with 
palms, olives, flowers and fountains, to ''Mosque 
El Aksa. ' ' This mosque is in extent 280 feet by 
180, and not as imposing as Omar. Through 
not so grand in appearance it has had a similar 
history of victories and defeats, by nearly the 
same forces, and we forbear further description. 

The Stahles of Solomon, if all of this man's 
noble workmanship were destroyed, these won- 
derful subterranean structures down beneath the 



310 HOLY LAND. 

surface some forty feet, would speak elaborately 
to his praise, and here his handiwork cannot be 
mistaken. 

Here unoccupied, but most neatly kept, are 
acres of archways with sides of stone, and high 
roofs, curving gracefully, strongly supported by 
vast pillars and columns, with capitals of fol- 
iated palm branches. This whole structure is 
built of huge stones, and planned on an elaborate 
scale, decked and finished by an artistic grace, 
which speaks not only loudly but clearly of the 
hand of Solomon. 

The Lepers sit about the outside walls of this 
Temple yet; and the helpless, hopeless mortals 
beg for ''back-sheesh." How unfortunate that 
some law does not forbid their marrying, and 
thus end the curse. The children of this class 
do not show any effects of the inbred disease 
until they mature, and then breaking out, it stiff- 
ens and sets the joints, and pours its poison 
through every pore of the flesh. No wonder 
such a heart as Christ's yielded to the healing of 
lepers. But a strict law forbidding their mar- 
riage is our compassionate cure, which, it is said, 
would end the curse in a hundred years. Why 
should twentieth century humanity wait for 
Divine cures when power to stay disease and 
allay suffering lies in their hands? Is it not 
God 's miracle to give the wisdom and opiportuni- 



HOLY LAND. 311 

ty? Is this not better than doing his work in 
some hidden, mysterious manner? We turn 
aside before leaving the city and view the Judg- 
ment Gate where Jesus met the daughters of 
Jerusalem and said, "Weep not for me, but for 
yourselves and your children." 

And also again, we glance at the "Tiropean 
Villa," where the "Rich Man" who would not 
help Lazarus, dwelt. The sights that meet our 
eyes are endless here, but we must pass out of 
this most wonderful and ever historic city and 
journey up and down its winding highways, 
though whichever way we turn, our eyes revert 
back, and we can see Jerusalem, which is ' ' like a 
city set on a hill. ' ' It cannot be hidden. 

' ' But, oh ! thy walls, thy giant walls, 
Who laid them in the land 
Belief turns pale, and fancy falls 
Before a work so grand; 
And well might heathen seers declare 
That fallen angels labored there. 
At first transported with the pleasing sight, 
Each Christian bosom glowed with full delight. 
But deep contrition saw their joy suppressed. 
And holy sorrow saddened every breast ; 
Scarce dare their eyes the city walls survey, 
Where clothed in flesh their dear Redeemer lay, 
Whose sacred earth did once their Lord enclose. 
And where triumphant from the grave he 
rose ! ' ' 

The journey to Bethlehem was in the after- 



312 HOLY LAND. 

noon of Tuesday, by carriage drawn by no mean 
steed, driven by no mean coachman. The drive 
is about two hours, and we covered the thirteen 
miles in about ninety minutes. The air was 
balmy, and as in March the sky is always clear, 
and the roads dusty, so the hard, winding car- 
riage way, similar to a pavement, wound around 
the hills bringing often to our eyes familiar 
Bible scenes and likewise now and then a gust of 
wind brought a cloud of dust. 

Driving out at the Jaffa gate, we crossed the 
hill of ' ' Evil Counsel, ' ' where Christ was tempt- 
ed, and perhaps where Judas was influenced. 
On its height at the left are the ruins of the coun- 
try house of Caiaphas the high priest. 

Soon we pass by the Convent of Elisha who, 
when weary and famished was fed by the 
angels; Rachel's tomb appears, covered by a 
mosque, and a cemetery surrounds it. ^'Poor 
Rachel as sweet as a rosebud, must have her 
tomb." 

Also we have passed by the Well of the Wise 
Men or Magi, a well wrought work some forty 
feet in depth. We now arrive at '^David's 
Well. ' ' He, in the cave of Adalon, sent his men 
hither for water, and when they returned with it, 
he would not drink it, but sacrificed it to the 
Lord. And now we are in sweet Bethlehem. 

Bethlehem is located on a narrow ridge extend- 



HOLY LAND. 313 

ing eastward from the central mountain system, 
and breaks down in terraced slopes, forming a 
beautiful sight, occupying a conspicuous posi- 
tion. On the north, east and south are deep 
valleys. The buildings are of white limestone, 
well constructed and crowned by domes, which, 
located on the side hill, rise above each other in 
quite regular, circular grades. The city has two 
gates, which are closed at night, though the city 
is not walled about. The hill around is decorat- 
ed with fig and olive trees, woven betwixt with 
the fruitful vines of Eschol. The flowers of the 
mountain sides deck its landscapes and the Beth- 
lehem stars, as called, fill a large place in this 
floral display. 

Bethlehem numbers about 2,500 souls, of ex- 
ceedingly fair complexion. The men have good 
faces and are business-like. But as the Jew is in- 
clined they push their bargains too sharply for 
the sightseer's comfort. The women are of 
good form, regular featured, of fresh complexion 
and not unlike their sisters in America. They 
are seemingly, men and women, worthy to be 
descendants of Ruth and Boaz. The children 
are uncommonly fresh and fair, and intelligent. 
Perhaps a little of the childhood of Jesus still 
lingers in the present generation. Praise the 
Lord ! Christ reigns supreme in his native city, 
and the Cross is in evidence everywhere. No 



314 HOLY LAND. 

Moslem is allowed a residence in the town. The 
people are many of them peasants and shep- 
herds. Others manufacture beads, rings, cross- 
es, crucifixes, wrought out of olive wood and 
mother of pearl. 

Bethlehem was once called ''The House of 
Bread," but now ''The House of Faith." It is 
called by sacred historians, "Bethlehem of Ju- 
dea." Matt. 2:1; also Ephrata; Micah 5:2. 
The birthplace of Him whose goings forth have 
been of old. It is historic as the place of birth 
and burial of Rachel (Gen. 35 :18-20). Scene of 
the love story of Ruth and Boaz (Ruth 4:13). 
As the birthplace of the lion-hearted David, and 
where he was anointed King of Israel, at the age 
of seventeen years. But after a thousand years 
or more of quiet, it was lastly, and first of all, the 
birthplace of Jesus (Luke 2:7). "The Prince 
of Peace," the wonderful Counselor, "the 
Mighty God," "the everlasting Father," here 
made life, for every dweller under the sun a new 
experience, of highest promise; He made the 
heavens sing the angels' songs; He made the shep- 
herds hustle to His cradle-bed, the wise men to 
offer their gold thereon ; and to show His power 
in the heavens, as well as on earth, He brought 
the brightest star of the firmament from its lofty 
course to stand guard over and be an escort to 
His birth. 



HOLY LAND. 315 

The Grotto of Nativity is a simple cave in the 
rock. Over it Constantine had a church biiild- 
ed. The church has been through Avars and de- 
structions common with those of Jerusalem. 
But the cave remains the same undisturbed shel- 
ter in the rock. There may be mistakes in other 
things pertaining to His early life. There is 
no mistake here. Its history runs too far back. 
A man of authority born in Nablous and. as far 
back as the beginning of the second century," Jus- 
tiii the Martyr, describes the birthplace of Jesus 
as " a grotto in Bethlehem. ' ' 

Later by one hundred years, Origen refers to 
the historic fact as accepted by Christians and 
Pagans. One hundred years more and Eusebius 
announced this cave as the accepted, traditional 
spot. Even to-day the caves are the stables of 
the Holy Land, which fact accords with Matt. 
2 :11 and Luke 2 :7. 

The people were worshipping in this strangely 
constructed church over the cave. Russian Pil- 
grims were bowing low, saying long prayers, kiss- 
ing the floors and the walls. The priests were 
burning incense. Around down a flight of steps 
we went and cautiously alighted in the sacred 
cave, 38 feet by 11 feet. Near the eastern end 
is likely the place of his birth. It is marked by 
a large, marble slab, in the center of which is 



316 HOLY LAND. 

written in Latin, "Here Jesus Christ was born 
of the Virgin Mary. ' ' 

Some sixteen lamps shed their light on the 
scene. The walls are covered with silks and 
embroidery. Then we followed a dim light into 
a sepulchre containing the dust of the members 
of the fraternity and passed to the "altar of the 
infant martyrs, ' ' slain by Herod. Here they 
are said to have been thrown. And just at the 
side is not only the tomb of Jerome, but here is 
a cell twenty feet square and nine feet high, 
around which a stone seat extends, where he 
spent most of his life in producing his Bible 
translations and other great works, which have 
marked him for all ages as an eminent scholar. 
Ascending a narrow staircase we enter the Basil- 
ica of St. Helena. It has a length of 120 feet, 
by over one hundred feet in breadth. The inte- 
rior has one nave and four long aisles. These are 
marked by four rows of twelve Corinthian col- 
umns in each row. These pillars are said to have 
come from the Temple porches at Jerusalem. 
The gold and precious gems which caused so 
much jealousy have been removed, and this part 
is quite barren and desolate. This is now divid- 
ed into two apartments, one belonging to the 
Greeks, the other to the Armenians. The whole 
has a pecular charm and significance to mothers, 
which will ever remain. And by the birth of 



HOLY LAND. 317 

Jesus here not only has childhood been lifted, 
broadened and sanctified throughout Christen- 
dom, but motherhood has been softened, sweet- 
ened, purified, edified, and made hopeful, in 
hovel and palace, in wilderness, island, plain and 
populous city. 

And well may they revert back to this place 
most prayerfully. Well may they cherish their 
foundlings as sacred. For motherhood is all of 
a nation's virtue, honor and home enshrined. 
Our moth erli ood is life or death. It is righteous- 
ness or unrighteousness. It is heaven, or hades 
turned loose. 

''Who could resist? Who in this universe? 
She did so breathe ambrosia, so immerse 
My full existence in a golden clime. 
She took me as a child of suckling time 
And cradled me in roses. ' ' 

Ben Hur's reply to his mother when she was 
to send him to Simeon for counsel as to his pur- 
suit and calling in life is not out of place. 

''Do you send me to the Rector?" he said 
abruptly. 

"I will have him come to us," said she. 

"No. I seek more than information. 0, my 
mother, you can do better by giving me what 
he cannot— //ie resolution which is the soul of 
man^s soul.'' 

Hearken to a woman among the prophets of 



318 HOLY lan£>. 

Israel. ' ' Sing ye to tlie Lord, for He hath 
triumphed gloriously." And let mothers still 
know the destiny of the world is in their own 
hands. 



Pcoad to Jericho, 



HOLY LAND. 321 

CHAPTER XXII. 

ROAD TO JERICHO. 

Apostles' Fountain — Samaritan Inn — Brook 
Clierith—Jericli o Modern — Dead Sea — Pisgah — 
Possessions of Ahraham — Gilgal — At the Jordan 
— Old Jericho— Bethany — Mt.Zion in Jerusalem 
—Rock of Agony. 

THE road to Jericho has lost some of its an- 
cient defiles, dangers and hardships. One 
would not be afraid to go unattended. 
But the robbers now lie at the beginning of the 
journey. The government insists on your pay- 
ing an extra passport ' ' overland, ' ' on the pretext 
that you are not safe v\^ithout the escort. 

Paying our sum for safety, with bated breath 
on Wednesday morning we started out with two 
carriages, each having three good coursers, a 
driver, and our conductor Clausen in one coach, 
and our Palestine guide, Yanni Paulo, in our 
own, and a sturdy, well armed Sheik, mounted 
on a flying steed, as escort and courier, we had 
something of the spirit of Roman times, I imag- 
ine, and appeared as people of highest rank, as 
of course the others were. And I did not feel 
very small, having eaten a full breakfast, and 
paid liberally for my protection, and above all 
being an American ; and besides I did not feel 

11 



322 HOLY LAND. 

suspicious of falling among thieves, for the shin- 
ing magnet in my pocket had been made so small 
by beggars, that I was sure it would repel 
thieves. 

As we drove out of the sacred city singing 
"Jerusalem, the golden, with milk and honey 
blest—" we passed around the north wall and 
down the eastern side, with the Mt. of Olives on 
the left; we passed the place where Stephen 
was stoned to death, and breathed the prayer of 
pathos: "Lay not this sin to their charge." 
We wound around the chalky, limestone hills, 
firmly paved, and deep ravines lying below us 
hundreds of feet straight down. We saw the 
place where Mary and Martha met Jesus and 
besought Him to go and raise Lazarus. The 
whole landscape of hills was covered with flocks 
of sheep and goats and everywhere sprinkled 
with flowers. We met caravans of camel after 
camel, heavily laden with bags of charcoal 
brought from the far south, climbing the heavy 
hills, weary with their burden, bearing their 
produce to the market place in Jerusalem. 

Also we had passed by where Ben Hur came 
wandering over, when at night he stole his way 
back to his old home in the city. We were very 
near where his mother and Tirzah were healed 
of their leprosy, when Jesus came passing by on 
His way to the Triumphant Entrance. 



HOLY LAND. 323 

We next came to the ''Apostles' Fountain," 
where an arched stone building covers it well. 
This was a favorite resting place for the Apos- 
tles when they were journeying, and often they 
have slaked their heavy thirst in these cooling 
waters. It was natural for us to be dry at this 
historic place, and we drank freely of the water 
which never injures anyone. This Fountain 
also marks the dividing line between the tribes 
of Benjamin and Judah. 

Having ridden some fifteen miles from Jerusa- 
lem, we were in a straight line perhaps only six 
miles from the city. The steeple on the Russian 
church just this side of the city could be seen 
distinctly. But the windings of the road around 
the steep hills are like spirals, endless. Now we 
are at the "Inn of the Good Samaritan," oppo- 
site of another beautiful fountain. Here we 
take our lunch in a cool, thick-walled building, 
built and kept for the purpose. The old floor of 
the Crusade Inn is still here. And just beyond 
is the tower of defense on a high hill. I clam- 
bered up to it while lunch was being arranged, 
and found it a cave in the rock, walled about, 
and heavy, deep trenches all about it, making it a 
strong point of defense. Now the walls have 
fallen down, and the cattle and sheep make their 
way through the ditches and over the walls to 
this cave for shelter in rain, and protection from 



324 HOLY LAND. 

the cool nights of winter. The lunch was soon 
ready, and it was not an inferior one, either, 
though one hungry party made it appear small 
presently. We spied "Old Glory" floating on 
the hillside near by, and it did wave its colors 
gracefully in the wind. And, American-like, 
some of us followed the flag and found another 
party of Americans journeying toward the Jor- 
dan. Saluting their flag, we mounted our car- 
riages and sped on with gathering enthusiasm. 
Here the man on his way to Jerico fell among 
thieves, and being stripped of his raiment he was 
' ' left half dead. ' ' And the Levite and the other 
wayfarer went by on the other side, but the good 
Samaritan went and administered to his com- 
fort, put him on his own horse, took him to the 
Inn, which used to stand here, paid his bill and 
more, promised to come and foot another bill and 
dispose of the poor fellow when through good 
care he had been restored. How many times has 
that question rung in the ears of hard-hearted 
men and women in this cold world, which Jesus 
asked, "Now, which was neighbor to him who 
fell among thieves ? ' ' and made the flinty, scorn- 
ful heart do deeds, the comfort of which will 
never receive just praise until the Judgment 
Day. From the tower here we look east to the 
"Mountain of Christ's Temptation," and love 
Him more for the view of this ground where He 



HOLY LAND. 325- 

conquered not only for self, but for all humanity 
such heroic measures of the arch enemy. 

On we drive again around tOAvard hills and 
mountains, studded with red poppies which grow . 
everywhere naturally in the Holy Land, and 
some two hours ' drive brings us alongside a deep 
ravine, through Avhich flows the "Brook Cher- 
ith, " and on its opposite steep bank a cave ap- 
pears. A hermit lives here, and finds his living 
from those who visit this historic place where 
"Elijah was fed by the ravens." A monastery 
is built on this spot. We looked for ravens, but 
at this dry time they are scarce. 

On fly our steeds while Ave whistle and sing 
"Away over Jordan, Lord," and other hymns 
appropriate, for we can see the Dead Sea and 
the mouth of the Jordan as it empties into it. 
We. have come down now to the level plain of the 
sea, and our carriages glide smoothly over the 
well-worked road. 

Our Sheik is on before us and we shall soon 
bathe our sunburned faces and dampen our 
cracking lips in the cooling waters of the hotel 
which we can see at modern Jericho. Distances 
are so extraordinarily deceiving in this Holy 
Land,' it was after some weariness we drove up to 
a stone hotel with flat roof, and well filled with 
guests, but where rooms were reserved for our 
party some time ahead. It was a cool, neatly 



326 HOLY LAND. 

kept place, Avith stone floors rather than car- 
pets, and here we had tl e experience of sitting 
on the roof morning and evening. We slept 
soundly, ate to our heart's content, arranged a 
quartet, and sang familiar American airs and 
hymns. 

We located the Jordan, Elisha 's Fountain, old 
Jericho of Joshua, almost fought with the native 
children to keep our money in our pockets. We 
started the next morning for the Dead Sea, which 
was just in sight, and I could not be persuaded 
that it could be two miles away. But we drove 
some three hours and one-half at a good speed 
before we reached its shore. We talked about a 
good bath in its waters, but our time was limited 
and Jordan had attractions, more. So we drank 
of its dreadful, unrelenting, ever-tasting, brack- 
ish waters, bathed our hands, and were quite 
satisfied. We could see Mt. Hebron on the left, 
Nebo and Pisgah, the ancient observatories of 
Moses, according to the song. Deut. 34:1-3. 

''And from Mt. Pisgah 's lofty height we'll view 
the landscape o 'er, 
Not Jordan's wave, nor death's cold flood, can 
fright us from the shore." 

These are peaks of the grand Moab mountains 
which skirt and cover the salt Dead Sea on the 
east in a lofty manner. On the west are the 
mountains of Samaria, the Heights of the Judean 



HOLY LAND. 327 

Hills. As we viewed this wonderful sea, our 
thoughts ran over the history familiar with the 
vicinity and connected with its borders. 

The sea is forty miles long and from five to 
nine miles ^^^de. It has a depth from two feet 
to 1308 feet. Its greatest depth is 2620 feet 
below the Mediterranean, and 3,920 feet below 
the site of Jerusalem. Its greatest width is at 
the river Arnon where Balak met Balaam. 
Num. 22 :36. 

The possessions of Abraham and Lot looked 
down upon this water, and yonder is Mt. Zoar, 
where Lot fled when commanded to fly to the 
mountains above. Gen. 19 :17-20. South- 
west from here stood Sodom and Gomorrah, 
which were burned for their wickedness in the 
"rain of fire." And away down here stands a 
pedestal sixty feet high, a solitary column rises 
forty feet higher, and behind it is an immense bar 
of salt. This is the only thing remaining which 
reminds you of the ''pillar of salt" into which 
Lot's wife was turned. Travelers have kissed 
away fountains, and tombs, and the toe of St. 
Peter, Kisses may have wasted away the wife 
of Lot. At the foot of Zoar David slew 18,000 
Syrians and later Amaziah slew 10,000 Edomites. 
(2 Sam. 8:13 and 2 Kings, 14:7.) The "Foun- 
tain of the Kid" lies along the shore. Here 
David was secreted when pursued by Saul. In 



328 HOLY LAND. 

a cave close by he "cut off the skirt of Saul's 
robe privily." I. Sam. 24:1-7. Up this pass 
Amnion's posterity journeyed on their way to 
attack Jerusalem, in the days of Jehosaphat. 2 
Chron. 20 :l-2. This place was celebrated for its 
vines and aromatic plants, and Solomon com- 
pared his beloved to a cluster of champhire in 
the vineyards of Engedi (Cant. 1 :14). The ap- 
ples of Solomon grow here in this valley to-day. 
They look delicious, but you touch them and they 
break like a puff-ball, and you have nothing left 
but a shell and some dried fibers. Near by are 
the ruins of the ''home of the churlish Nabal" 
and his very beautiful wife, Abigail. A little 
distance from here Nabal held his annual feast. 
David sent his famishing troops to him asking 
the privilege to enjoy the festival for the reward 
of services rendered. I. Sam. 25 :l-42. 

But aroused by the undertaking of another 
party trying to whip their horse into the sea, 
that they might enjoy seeing it float, and the 
running away of the same, our party was called 
and we sped across the plains of Jericho to one of 
the fords of the Jordan. On our way we passed 
Gilgal, the ancient, marked by the growth of a 
cypress tree upon its ruins. Here the monu- 
mental stones from the bed of the Jordan, Joshua 
set up as a memorial of the miraculous dividing 
of the river. Josh. 4:1-20. The Israelites first 



HOLY LAND. 329 

set up their tent here and rolled away the re- 
proach of Egypt by the renewal of circumcision, 
and kept the Passover for the first time in 
Canaan. Here Joshua saw the "captain of the 
Lord's host" standing over against him, with 
sword drawn. Here the tabernacle was first set 
up and remained till carried to Shiloh. Here 
Saul was made king of Israel and two years later 
lost his kingdom by acting foolishly. The tribe 
of Judah came here to hail the return of David 
after the death of Absalom, 2 Sam. 19 :15, etc. 

■ At the Jordan we sang as we approached the 
first ford above its mouth, and looked across 
where Moses stood, and we met the river where 
John baptized Christ. 

' ' On Jordan 's stormy banks I stand 
And cast a wishful eye— 
To Canaan's fair and happy land, 
Where my possessions lie." 

' ' Could I but climb where Moses stood. 
And view the landscape o'er, 
Not Jordan's wave, nor death's cold flood. 
Could fright me from the shore." 

We were standing on the very ground which 
Moses saw from Pisgah, and longed so much to 
enter. We were doubtless at the place where 
the Spirit descended ''like a dove" upon Christ. 

Our conductor Clausen was asked to show the 
ladies the charms of nature among the Avillows 
down the river while we bathed in the long-loved 



330 HOLY LAND. 

and desired Jordan. We were properly cau- 
tioned as to the danger of its swift current and 
muddy sediment of its banks and bed. Prepar- 
ing first and leading the way, I caught the 
branches of an overhanging tree and in an in- 
stant was swimming in mud instead of water. 
But for the help of the branches I might have 
been buried. The others saw me pull out for 
shore and rather retreated from the purposed 
bath, except Rev. Carpenter. He was very cau- 
tious. I tried other places and sunk to the 
middle everywhere. They urged me to give it 
up, but I had not come all the distance to be 
taken in by mud or disappointment. So run- 
ning down to the carriage I tried the bank there 
cautiously, and found it better. Thus standing 
in the mud some eighteen inches and above it in 
the water something like three feet, I bathed, 
and Rev. Carpenter accompanied me. Then ac- 
cording to agreement I offered my hand to R. J. 
R. Aden for baptism, to which he readily replied 
and with a spiritual pride. For this banker who 
had been so kind to me and who sought to come 
nearer to Christ by the act, I pronounced as 
nearly as I could, in the spirit of John, the 
blessings of baptismal covenant. 

The act was not without a blessing to myself. 
Then Mr. F. F. Carpenter baptized 'his friend, 
Noah Webster, and in turn Rev. Carpenter and 



HOLY LAND. 331 

myself baptized each other. The Jordan is per- 
haps not more than sixty miles in a straight line 
length, but 200 miles with its crooks and looping 
turns upon itself; having twenty-seven rapids, 
its current is always swift, constantly laden with 
silt from the mountains of its source the waters 
are not clear, but colored with large carriage of 
soil, like the Tiber, which Spartacus pronounced 
yellow, answers for the river's strange artistic 
tinge. Its breadth varies greatly, being from 
eighty to two hundred and forty feet. Also its 
depth is varied, like its course, from two to thirty 
feet. Trees of tamarack, cypress and oleanders 
are dispersed along its banks and many brooks 
madly rush from the disdainful mountains 
divided by its course, to its bosom to flood and 
feed the surrounding desert plains. In about 
the center of its course is Brook Jabook, which 
divides the kingdoms of Sihon and Og, and it 
was somewhere here where the patriarch Jacob 
halted one night on its northern bank and wrest- 
led with the angel, and then what happened on 
the morn is told in the Volume Wonderful. 

We lunched just across the Cherith under the 
shade of a ''dome" tree forty rods from the 
place of baptism, hungry as the thousand and 
one gnats which put up a tremendous fight of 
fondness. Wandering down the dry bed of this 
brook we picked up monumental stones from the 



332 HOLY LAND. 

Jordan banks, and resumed our search over the 
plain of Jericho for things of note if not so 
charming as these. 

Passing Gilgal, where we stopped for a little, 
but described in part before, we came opposite of 
old Jericho. 

Here is the place of crossing the Jordan by the 
Israelites at the second ford, for here we are in 
accord with the Holy Writ just over against 
Jericho, some four or five miles above the first 
ford. The western bank is worn by the feet of 
many privileged persons, and the bare feet of 
many generations of God's Israel. Directly op- 
posite of us are the mountains of Moab and the 
old site of Nimrim. At these summits were the 
high places of Baal, the field of Zophim, Num- 
bers 22 :41. The prophet from here looked down 
upon the Lord's chosen people, but could not 
count the dust of Jacob. Num. 28 :10. He saw 
Gilead, Naphtali, the possessions of Ephraim and 
Manasseh, Judah and Benjamin, before the curse 
had fallen like a grand floral, fruitful, oasic, 
terraced and rolling garden of grandeur, and his 
own eyes closed a month too early, by previous 
sin, were shuttered in Moab. Deut. 34 :l-3. 

Here, five centuries later, the Jordan was 
twice divided in one day, once for Elijah and 
Elisha to pass to the land of Moab and again for 
their return. 2 Kings 5 :12. 



HOLY LAND. 333 

Joshua encompassed the city seven times, and 
it fell. There is nothing here to mark the site 
but a few old flattened ruins. 

Then seated in our carriage, we drove to that 
wonderful Fountain of Elisha, which he salted 
to makes its waters sweet. I can assure you they 
had a delicious taste for us on that day. Would 
that the natives, however, would not drink and 
bathe from the same pool. Here, on the north- 
east side of the fountain, is a part of the old wall 
left, where upon the house-top, Rahab hid the 
spies. 

Then driving back to our hotel at New Jericho, 
we rested sweetly, had our pictures taken, and 
rising early started before seven on our return 
trip to Jerusalem. The day was fine. Every 
day is bright in the Holy Land from March to 
January. Too bright are they for profit, for 
growth to crops, since they cannot be grown too 
well without irrigation. The ride home was up 
long hills, some of which were so abrupt that we 
all walked. And our horses showed on our re- 
turn that twenty-five miles of the Judean roads 
were quite enough. 

Bethany was our place of enjoyment on Fri- 
day. For no one but a traveler can just under- 
stand what deep pleasure there is in sight-seeing 
in these sacred towns. ''Now Bethany is nigh 
unto Jerusalem," about two miles off. Much of 



334 HOLY LAND. 

the peculiar life of Christ is connected with its 
sweet sounding name. "The Palm Sunday" 
each year recalls the triumphal entrance of 
Christ into Jerusalem, starting from beyond 
Bethany and coming along the highway. Here 
we visited the Tomb of Lazarus from which 
Christ raised him, through the partially waver- 
ing or sloAv faith of his sisters Mary and Martha. 
To reach it requires a descent of some twenty 
steps into a vaulted chamber of stone twenty-two 
feet deep and on the left a small door opens to a 
vault where the dead man lay. Here on this 
occasion Christ dined in the house of Simon, the 
leper, which we were privileged to see. Matt. 
26:6; Jno. 11. Then we wound our way around 
and down a dirty street which led us to an en- 
trance, where we saw one or two columns, and 
the cellar of the home of Martha and Mary, and 
the place where they wove many, a priest 's gar- 
ments, and with pious fingers wore away many 
nights and days in ceaseless toil. About one 
hundred people stay about this fallen town. 
Nude children, but for dirt, throng the streets 
and make the passage obnoxious ; and dirty bare 
women are as heedless of their condition as roam- 
ing snakes. Poor people, under an ironclad 
bondage with the Sultan's feet treading them in 
the gutter while his trembling, fearful hands, 



HOLY LAND. 335 

strip them bare and close their bright, black eyes 
to progress. 

Back to Jerusalem at 3 :30 we visited on Mt. 
Zion the American church, which was full of 
worshippers. Here St. James was beheaded by 
Herod, and stones from Sinai, Tabor and River 
Jordan are nicely arranged and kept. We wan- 
dered to the site of the house of Ananias. We 
came to the palace of Caiaphas, where Peter de- 
nied his Lord. We visited the tomb of the Patri- 
archs of the Armenian church, and they are not 
gaudy, though the former church was a gem, 
judging from the old mosaics. The place where 
Christ was imprisoned, w^hen he was brought to 
Caiaphas was shown us. Then to David's Tomb 
in the church where Christ ate ''His Last Sup- 
per" with his disciples. How these things cling 
to one having once discerned the place. They 
will forever make the sacrament more real. 

On the slopes of Mt. Olivet stands the convent 
of the Carmelites, and it was here our Savior 
taught his disciples to say, ' ' Our Father, who art 
in heaven. ' ' 

Here in the Roman Catholic church is a 
''French Princess' Tomb," who built this con- 
vent with her own money. Here are a multitude 
of girls who, having once entered, are never al- 
lowed to see a soul again. Here we entered the 
Chapel, where the Apostles wrote the creed, and 



336 HOLY LAND. 

where, when Christ was betrayed, they fled for 
refuge. Also we went to the spot on the west 
side of Olivet, where Jesus wept over the city 
and said: "How often would I have gathered 
you as a hen gathereth her chickens under her 
wings, and ye would not." This spot is high 
and so located that one can behold the whole 
city. On Olivet we visited the Rock of Agony. 
This is where Christ wrestled in agony and the 
angel came and comforted him. It is a grotto 
hewn out of the rock, and the place is said to 
have contained the stone upon which Christ 
knelt and the real hollow, or impression of his 
knees is left in the rock where he prayed. This 
stone is in the museum, and was not seen by us. 
But while the hollowed stone is real tradition, 
the cave is clearly recognized as genuine. Then 
turning down the street we entered the Garden 
of Gethsemane. This is now closed with a high 
wall, and contains an area of one hundred and 
twenty feet by one hundred and fifty feet, lying 
at the junction of three roads. It is a quiet 
place and strewn with plants and flowers, well 
kept. It contains an old olive tree among others 
which every traveler marks. Here the world's 
Redeemer lay prostrate on the ground and yield- 
ed to the Father's will, and took the cup of death 
for all lost humanity. Here Judas gave away 
the Lord with a kiss, for money, as many are 



HOLY LAND. 337 

doing this day, and polluted the cheek of inno- 
cence. Here Peter in his passion for Christ, 
smote off the ear of Malchus, and the Christ of 
compassioti corrected him and healed the wound 
of impulse. Alas ! how many such wounds this 
world's people give. Here John, the beloved 
disciple, fled from the scene, leaving the linen 
cloth in the hands of the ruffians. Here are now 
in cast casements a series of pictures illustrating 
the Christ falling under the cross several times, 
and the acts of crucifixion. It is awful but 
deeply thrilling to be in this place. Prayer, sor- 
row, sin, forgiveness, joy and song rush through 
the soul in waves. 

' " Tis midnight on Mt. Olive 's brow, ' 
The sun is dead that lately shown ; 
'Tis midnight in the garden now. 
The suffering Savior weeps alone. ' ' 

This creeps through my soul, and then the 
triumphant outbreak of his voice, filled with love 
deeper than the pangs of death or the curse of 
Hell, tinged my whole being with a sense of His 
mighty soul: '^Father, forgive them, for they 
know not what they do." Majesty, might, and 
heroism, where is it? Among all the statesmen, 
warriors, reformers, charities and philanthropies 
of history ? They fade, die and perish, when we 
touch this sentiment of forgiveness locked up in 
Christ 's heart. 

Charity and forgiveness alone are great. 



Our Raiding Journey, 



HOLY LAND. 341 

CHAPTER XXlil. 

OUR RIDING JOURNEY. 

Horses Tried— My Oivn Pony— Pony's Run- 
Start Monday Morning — Noh and Mizpeh — 
Bethel— Camp at Sinjil-Shiloh—Jaco'b's Well 
—NaMous— Samaria— Soli— Valley of Esdrealon 
— Camp at Mt. Tahor— Transfiguration— Mt. of 
Beatitudes— Galilee— N azarefk-Yirgin' s Foun- 
tain. 

AFTER church Sunday in Jerusalem, our 
horses were brought out and we were 
asked to try them. They have fine rid- 
ing ponies here. But some three parties were to 
start out early Monday morning on horseback. 
The noble liveryman was anxious our party 
should have its pick for the long journey. 
For the party of six, they brought out some fif- 
teen smart young horses to select from. They 
are Arabian ponies from six to eight years old. 
They have been well-groomed, trained and fed. 
They are stallions. They are well bred. They 
weigh about eight hundred apiece, and are quite 
full of metal. 

Selecting our favorities, they were all dapple 
grays, and looked like sixlets. My fellow 
was strong chested, short backed, nimble of 
limb, without a blemish. His nostrils, eyes and 



342 HOLY LAND. 

forehead were full. His ears were like those 
of a fox. Indeed, they were all much of the 
same temperament. My fellow champed the 
bit as if eager for the race. And indeed he 
was. He would never stop until he won it, 
either. Then he was as calm as a June morning. 
Mounted by our attendants, slowly we moved out 
of the hotel court down the street towards Solo- 
mon 's Pool. We moved not without some pranc- 
ing, but our steeds were curbed and manageable. 
A half mile or more and all was serene, until my 
friend's hat blew off, and being attached to the 
coat with a cord, struck his animal's side. He 
plunged and turned around, but Mr. Aden, 
though unaccustomed to riding, clung to him. 
But at his turning, every horse turned, as if a 
race was surely at hand. And it was a race. 
My pony had the bits in his teeth, and I flew un- 
til everything was passed, and then the reins 
were submitted to me again with a sort of im.- 
portant toss of my pony's head. Mr. Aden 
gathered his reins, stopped his horse, the hat was 
rearranged and again we started, with our 
horses' metal up, toward the circling road around 
the city. "We went down hills stony, steep and 
slippery, but they held us like steady oxen. 
When on the level or ascent they pranced and 
tried the reins somewhat but were perfectly 
obedient. We rode them six or seven miles, and 



HOLY LAND. 343 

all seemed pleased with their choice, and it is 
true we had no cause for change throughout our 
whole journey. 

And Monday morning we were off on a newly- 
constructed, crushed stone, cemented road, lead- 
ing north toward the Sea of Galilee. The horses 
were fresh and for some eight miles for the most 
part we had this recent carriage road. But soon 
we came to a saddle path only, with deep troughs 
in the rocks from constant use, for at least five 
thousand years. We climbed on and up, down 
and around steep hills and mountains. It 
seemed as if our pony's feet must slip many 
times and precipitate us down over their heads 
in a tumble to a hundred feet below. But 
crawling up and down, planning their own steps 
they never slipped nor fumbled. And we were 
agreed in the remark "that our ponies could 
carry us down any precipice and land us safe- 
ly." We met the native Arabs traveling on 
camels and donkeys and on foot toward Jerusa- 
lem, and learned to say ' ' good morning ' ' to them 
in their own language. I would say "Nar-ox-i- 
ede!" (good morning). They would reply 
''Um-barrah, " or Blessed Day, with a low bow 
and a smile. We met many maidens bearing 
their jars of water from spring and well. They, 
if spoken to, would bow and smile in apprecia- 
tive manner. So we found we could have friends 



344 HOLY LAND. 

even here, if we showed ourselves friendly. And 
it was quite a pastime to mark their manners, 
their build, their training. Some of the faces 
were deep, sweet, pure and rich. 

We passed ancient Nob and Mizpeh on the left, 
came to Beerouth standing on a rocky ridge, 
which held about a thousand people, nearly all 
Mohammedans. Scripture mentions a league 
having been formed here between Gideon and 
Joshua. In Latin times it was rich; now, its 
ruins speak. 

It contains an old Gothic church, builded by 
the ''Knights Templar," centuries ago. The 
sacristy remains. 

Three miles on to the north and we stopped at 
old Bethel for our lunch. We were now some 
fifteen miles from Jerusalem. Some thirteen 
men and twenty-three mules carried our luggage 
before us and stretched our lunch tent in readi- 
ness for us. I strayed around, went to the spot 
of Jacob 's wrestling, and sat in pleasant thought 
among those scenes of angels and results of pre- 
vailing, unrelenting prayer. Our lunch was full 
and varied to quite suit our tastes, and the water 
from the fountain was delicious. It was a hot 
sun, but a cooling, fresh breeze blew away some 
of the flies and brought us deep breaths of 
health. 

After a rest of two hours our steeds were 



HOLY LAND. 345 

girted, and mounting by the help of our attend- 
ant, and besieged by natives for backsheesh, we 
came in a little time to the ruins of that old 
historic city of Ai, where Achan, through 
treachery and deceitfulness made trouble. Be- 
tween Bethel and Ai is the mountain where Abra- 
ham pitched his tent and built an altar unto 
the Lord. Gen. 12-8. We came to a place called 
Sinjil, and camped for the night. Our tents 
were all pitched before we came into camp. A 
cup of hot tea and wafers were prepared in the 
kitchen tent, and brought to us in the dining 
tent, while we chatted of the experiences of the 
day, and longed for rest. Dining at about seven 
o'clock, we wrote up our outline notes for the 
day, and sank into rest upon our clean, neat 
spring cots. "We were tired enough to rest. 

The next morning, rising at six o'clock, we 
were mounted and off to take part of our trip in 
the cool of the day. We beheld ancient Shiloh 
on our right. Here are heaps of hewn stone, col- 
umns broken and standing in the earth, tilted by 
time's wreck of all things but God. Judges 
21 :19, refers to this place. Here the tabernacle 
was first set up in Canaan, and the ark rested 
here until near to the close of Eli's life. Here 
the tribes of Israel allotted their land. Josh. 18. 
Samuel was brought here to serve in the taber- 



346 HOLY LAND. 

nacle. I. Sam. 1 :24 and 2 :1-18. Read of the 
Benjamin capture, Judges, 21. 

Shiloh was cursed for the wickedness of the 
people and its ruins testify to the permanent 
truth to-day. Jer. 7:12. Lebanon lifted its 
lofty head on the left and seemed, as it is, a thing 
of grandeur. 

Now on our way to Samaria, we passed one of 
the old caves called the Crusaders' Inn, since they 
had cjuarters here during the siege of the Holy 
Land. The tower of Hophni and Phineas and 
Joseph's tomb appeared on distant mounds. In 
the afternoon we came to Samaria and along the 
foot of Gerizim in a beautiful, fertile valley. 
We saw the walls of some inclosure some hours 
before we could dismount, and discovered for our- 
selves this was the protection to ' ' Jacob 's Well, ' ' 
which is securely and sacredly guarded. Enter- 
ing, we found in an old ruin of a church which 
was built over it, the famous well of clear, spark- 
ling water. It was once 150 feet deep, a solid 
shaft in the rock three feet in diameter. Now 
it is only 90 feet deep. They let down a little 
tin pail and drew us up the sweet waters which 
never injure anyone for over-drinking, and our 
parched lips and tongues kissed its pure essence 
as a boy would kiss a laughing girl. Down our 
dry throats as honey dew it ran, until we thanked 
God, too, for Jacob's well. 



HOLY LAND. 347 

Then one-half mile across at the foot of Mt. 
Ebal, the mount of cursing, we visited the Tomb 
of Joseph over which a church is builded, and 
several boys and girls were being catechised and 
taught by a Shechem priest. 

Now we pass up toward the west through a 
deep vale between Ebal and Gerizim, and in the 
distance of one mile reach our camping place on 
the heights of old Shechem. This city has from 
15,000 to 20,000 inhabitants. Its shops and stalls 
are under stone arches supporting dwellers above; 
the many streets are similar, dark, damp and 
dirty. However, its buildings, as you approach 
the city from the outside, seem imposing. The 
city is built of beautiful white limestone from 
the exhaustless quarries of Mt. Ebal, a part of 
the city. 

We entered one of its churches and saw the 
Pentateuch in oldest Alexandrian manuscript, 
which is taught to the children here. This is 
one of the oldest towns in Palestine. Abraham 
and Jacob both pitched their tents here centuries 
ago. Gen. 12. And on Ebal, Joshua reared 
the first Jewish altar in Samaria. Josh. 8. The 
jackals howled all night, and the dogs gave them 
answer, but we found nevertheless good rest in 
this city, and the next morning we passed over 
green hills and through fertile valleys, passed 
several mills of water power, very small indeed. 



348 HOLY LAND. 

for grinding purposes. Two miles from She- 
chem we passed a band of 1,200 pilgrims from 
Russia on their way to Galilee and Nazareth and 
back to Jerusalem for Easter. They formed a 
regiment more than a mile in length. Clad in 
Russian winter packs, with tea and a little food 
in a bundle on their backs, on they plodded their 
weary way in the exhaustive heat. It was dex- 
terous skill to ride past them on the steep moun- 
tain sidepath. But finally the deed was done, 
and we traveled on at a more rapid pace. 

We crossed brooks and turning to our left we 
climbed a steep, long hill, and entered the dilapi- 
dated and old mud hut city on the ancient proud, 
once capital city of Herod. The population to- 
day is about 200 poor, low, starving creatures. 
Once most populous, it was a city literally walled 
in by beautiful temples of great proportions. 
They were noted for the vast number of marble 
columns. And standing on this cone of a moun- 
tain hill it represented royalty indeed. The 
Crusade church is quite a popular ruin. In it 
we found the tombs of Obediah, Elisha and John 
the Baptist. We were at the pool of Samaria, 
where the dogs licked the blood of Ahab. 

Coming down the steep hill from its summit 
we passed the great amphitheatre ruins of 
Herod. The pilgrims again passing us, we had 
another mile and a half of diiScult riding to pass 



HOLY LAND. 349 

them, and on we went to our lunch at Soli. They 
came on after us and sat down for their lunch 
as we were leaving the place. Then we passed 
through Dothan, where Joseph's brethren put 
him in a pit. Down the hill we went by the 
Fountain of Israel, and passed the city of Ahab 
and the place which he bought of Naboth, 
through the influence of his impious cpieen. Just 
across is the Mt. of Gilboah, which sends a sort 
qf land tongue across the valley and meets the 
foothill of Jezreel. 

Now we are in the valley of valleys, in history, 
in battles, in wealth, in fertility, beauty and re- 
nown. The immortal Esdraelon is at the foot of 
the Fountain of Gideon. The continuing Car- 
mel is eight miles across on the left. The val- 
ley above referred to is the plain of plains in 
Scripture painting and recognition. It contains 
thousands of acres and not one-fourth of its very 
productive soil is tilled at all. Only a wooden 
stick is used to stir up the soil where it is culti- 
vated. But the Israelites and Canaanites 
fought furiously here ; Deborah and Barak here 
drove back the impudent Sisera ; Gideon and the 
Midianites met here and parted ; the Philistines 
fought against Saul and Jonathan; Benhadad 
made battle against Ahab here ; Jehu slew 
Joram and Ahaziah; Napoleon and Kleber led 
their matchless men aojainst the Turks. Passing 



350 HOLY LAND. 

along the valley we came to Nain at the foot of 
Little Hermon. It is but a ruin of huts to-day. 
Christ touched the son of the widow of Nain and 
made its history forever in one act. Luke vii. Here 
we lunched. From here a sort of ridge bridge 
runs across the valley to Mt. Tabor. We had to 
ford one deep stream, however. And as we passed 
along we saw the table land of Little Hermon, 
where Deborah sang her everlasting and most 
brilliant song. Here we camped for the night 
at the foot of Mt. Tabor. But we were scarcely 
settled in our camp — the water being furnished 
from the fountain for the night— when this band 
of pilgrims came famishing and literally crying 
into our camp for a drop of water. The drago- 
men gave some to the choking aged women and 
hundreds came kneeling asking for a bit of water. 
We told the dragomen to give them water. Our 
party could not bear to see them choking. 

Sixty of this band fell under sunstroke and 
heat that afternoon before they reached us. The 
conductor had paid $15.00 for water out of his 
own pocket for these sufferers that afternoon. 
Refreshed, they climbed up on the mountain and 
camped that night on Mt. Tabor. 

We spent a restful night under the shadow of 
the Mt. of Transfiguration. At 6 o'clock in the 
morning, Mr. F. F. Carpenter and myself were 
ready with the dragomen to climb this mountain, 



HOLY LAND. 351 

while the rest of the party went on in a straight 
course. It is about three miles and a half up 
this mountain way, and steep. But we would 
not have missed it, for its summit is beautiful, 
with fine walls, mosques, lawns^ flower gardens 
and fountains. It is well kept by monks secured 
for the purpose. The view from the mountain 
towering up into the clouds is heavenly. We 
saw the ruins of the temple from which Christ 
rwas transfigured, the stone altar by which He 
stood. The place of Moses' and Elias' appear- 
ance in the cloud was pointed out. Tabor is 
2,000 feet above the level of the sea, and for 
twenty years has been considered the place of 
Transfiguration. This event adds all the glory to 
the charming mountain scene. We took our 
descent hurrying by the pilgrims and their lug- 
gage donkeys, to catch our party on their way to 
Tiberias. We caught our party and lunched 
with them at Lubeck at noon. To say that our 
horses did us good service that morning is speak- 
ing lightly of their qualities of kindness and 
endurance. 

Rested, we passed the mountain of Christ's 
great sermon, called the Mt. of Beatitudes. Matt. 
5. It is about 800 feet high, a flat table land on 
top containing ten acres or more of surface. The 
view is simply beautiful from all sides. We look 
over through the vale upon the sea of Galilee on 



352 HOLY LAND. 

the east, and on the west over the valley of Es- 
draelon. We reached the sea of Galilee at 3 p. 
m. Passing through Tiberias and going beyond 
to find our camp, we viewed the crumbling walls, 
the ruins of the Roman fort. Two thousand 
people populate this city now, and it is dirty and 
poorly kept. Capernaum just across the lake 
from our camp is now a small town. But for- 
ever famous for being one of the chief centers of 
Christ's work, the place of his often resorting. 
Bethsaida is just north of Capernaum on the sea, 
and the hill down which the swine ran violently 
is just across the sea from Tiberias. 

Our first delightful experience was a bath in 
this beautiful sea. Then we took a row and a 
sail upon its glory, glistening surface. It is a 
charming lake. Its scenery is fine. Its length 
is thirteen miles, its width seven miles. I don't 
wonder that the song writer was enraptured 
over it. 

''0, Galilee, blue Galilee, 
Where Jesus longed so much to be, 
0, Galilee, sweet Galilee, 
Come sing your songs again to me. ' ' 

These scenes left, we found our lunching place 
at the scene of Christ's first miracle, at Cana. 

We saw the great stone jar in which the cold, 
clear water curdled into wine at Christ's com- 



HOLY LAND. 353 

mand. The jar is of hard flint stone, and at 
least aged. 

Then Saturday night, after a long day's ride, 
we came to Nazareth and here rested over Sun- 
day in Christ's boyhood home. Nazareth is the 
cleanest, most intellectual and contains the finest 
faced and formed people of any city in all the 
Holy Land. It is situated on a side hill vale, 
among a lot of surrounding hills, and is cut with 
three shallow valleys. Its population of 5,000 is 
at least three-fourths Christian. So for this 
land it is a surprising town. I am wondering if 
the sacred boyhood life of Jesus is not felt among 
this people yet. I think something of his life 
still lingers here to inspire, to lift the people 
above the ordinary. 

The missions are fine here, and lovely young 
women, dressed much like our Americans for hot 
summer weather, come out with their needlework 
and doilies, urging you to buy. 

The Virgin's Fountain, where Christ gave to 
the poor Ben Hur, when he fell, the cup of cool- 
ing water, is still here and affords bounteous re- 
freshing draughts for every onward toiler. We 
saw the charmingly dressed, beautiful faced 
maidens come with their jars at nightfall for the 
evening's supply of cooling nectar. They are 
straight, strong, graceful, lady-like, less afraid 
of strangers than other maidens of the country. 



354 HOLY LAND. 

They treat you pleasantly, but quickly resent 
any over familiarity. They can converse in 
English. Our schools have polished them into 
womanhood. And yet they are sold as wives by 
their fathers, and are henceforth slaves to men. 
American girls live, at least, in one heaven above 
these fettered creatures. 

We visited the mountain in the southeast cor- 
ner of the town where the people threatened to 
cast Christ down. Luke 4:28-29. We saw the 
church of Annunciation, marking the place 
where the angel promised to Mary the Christ- 
child. We visited the home of Christ, and the 
grotto where Mary cooked for Joseph, cared for 
the young carpenter and made a typical home 
for him. 

We w^ere led by a monk to the carpenter shop 
of Joseph, which really does contain a part of the 
old wall. We saw the great traditional stone 
workbench on which Christ was said to have 
toiled at his trade. A few poor people followed 
us, of Mohammedan fellowship, into this place. 
One of the young ladies knelt in prayer before 
this rock, but smiled and flirted with the young 
men instead of praying, until the priest caught 
her eye. 



Raiding Journey Continued, 



HOLY LAND. 357 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

RIDING JOURNEY CONTINUED. 

Mt. Carmel— Along the Mediterranean— Tyre 
— Sidon — Beyrout — Dr. Jessup — His Home- 
Council Concerning Ahhas—Our Fine Care in 
Matters of Food. 

LEAVING beautiful Nazareth, we went over 
hills and along the valley, with Mt. Carmel 
on our left. Finally, we came to Haifa, 
and near here is a colony of Germans, who till 
the soil properly and reap very rich harvests. 
We camped at Haifa for the night. Scarcely 
had we hoisted the flag when Mrs. Hurst 's assist- 
ant from the west of America came in to wel- 
come the American travelers. We had a chance 
to question him about Abbas the Prophet. But 
as there is a feud or dissension in this order at 
present I could not gain very much that was re- 
liable concerning the present Abbas Effendi. 
But when I found Dr. Jessup in Beyrout, who 
has visited and studied this sect, he divulged to 
me some of their secrets, which at least are not 
right. Biblical or Christian. Americans had bet- 
ter bury their money than send it here for such 
purposes as these men put it to. Mt. Carmel's 
point where Elijah had his test with Baal and 
his prophets, has a Roman Catholic convent over 



358 HOLY LAND. 

the spot. Here the fire of God came down and 
consumed the sacrifice and licked up the water 
in the trench around about it. We saw the cave 
where Elijah hid the prophets from Jezebel. Here 
David sent his men to receive food, but David, 
denying himself, took none. It was also from 
Mt. Carmel where Elijah saw the cloud appear 
as a man's hand. 

On from here we rode along the shore of the 
Mediterranean till we came to Kishon river, 
which we could not ford for its great depth, so 
our horses were swum across and we went by 
boat. Quickly we were in Akka, where we 
lunched. Then we thought of the cruel slaugh- 
ter of the harem girls at this place Jezzar— "the 
Butcher." This city also saw the greatest war- 
rior of the age. Napoleon, after eight successive 
assaults, witnessed the defeat of his army, 1799. 
Then he forever gave up his visions of an East- 
ern Empire. 

Reaching Tyre, we saw Lebanon, snow-capped, 
towering 13,000 feet above the level of the sea. 
Its gradually sloping side does not look one-half 
this height, but the white snow bank on the sum- 
mit tells the story. It was 100 Fahrenheit with us, 
twenty-five miles away there was a frozen cake of 
ice the scorching sun could not melt. The streets 
of this city are paved and fairly clean, crooked 
and narrow. The people are 5,000 in number 



HOLY LAND. 359 

and mostly Mohammedans. Acres of old ruins 
and columns of the ancient city lie here, covered 
by the waters of the Mediterranean. A part of 
the old wall enclosure comprehends the present 
harbor for rough, small ships. Here were ruins 
of an old temple and a huge, rose granite column 
unfinished. Hiram's tomb lies east of the city 
four miles. And we saw the road down which 
Hiram brought the cedars from old Lebanon to 
send down to Jaffa for transportation to Jerusa- 
lem for Solomon's Temple. The city, once the 
center of Christian history, is but a hamlet of 
poor people. We met a most brilliant doctor here 
who is banished to stay within the environs of 
Tyre until he or the present Sultan of Turkey 
dies. This is because he in the Armenian trou- 
bles was lenient, and considered a traitor by the 
Sultan. His sentence is to doctor the poor for 
nothing and to take no practice for pay. To eat 
such scanty food as is dealt out to him by the 
government. 

In the morning we started for Sidon, the scrip- 
tural twin city of Tyre. We had one hour's 
severe sand storm, which was by no means a 
pleasure. Before we reached Sidon, we saw an- 
cient Sarepta. The streets of Sidon are fairly 
good. The people are more intelligent than in 
Tyre, and are cleaner. Perhaps 3,000 people 
and more live in this city. The Manual Train- 



360 HOLY LAND. 

ing School is doing much for the people here, in 
connection with the American mission. We met 
Erdman Paul, missionary at Sidon, a beautiful, 
bright young man of twenty-two years, from 
America. The Musselmans were in the large 
cemetery, wailing for their dead ones. And the 
maidens would rubber at us and then hide their 
pretty faces. 

Beyrout, a modernized city of European style, 
and of the American spirit is quite strong here. 
The College has 550 students now, and its influ- 
ence for nearly forty years is beginning to be 
tremendously felt. Even the Mohammedan boys 
are in attendance and frequent Dr. Jessup's 
church for service. They are learning the ad- 
vantages of a Christian American education, and 
on they speed to obtain it at any cost. The young 
men are fine looking, and exceedingly bright in 
the languages. When they graduate from this 
institution, they are given government positions 
in Egypt, securing for themselves $500 or up- 
ward a year. This is much better than living on 
nothing. Just now there is great hope for the 
-Holy Land people through our schools. 

Dr. Jessup has a fine printing and Bible house 
here, well manned and equipped. He is business 
from start to finish. He is a scholar and a Chris- 
tian gentleman. He demands everybody's re- 



HOLY LAND. 361 

spect. And God respects and honors his holy, 
pure, unselfish life. 

Calling at his home we had one hour's inspira- 
tion from him in the presence of his family. In 
truly eastern style, with a glass of lemonade, he 
treated us as we were ushered into his fine par- 
lors. Especially were we^ Mr. F. F. Carpenter 
and myself, interested in meeting this noble man. 
We had been hoaxed and muddled long enough 
with the Abbas Eifendi affair, and we sought 
him to know the truth. He said, I will be de- 
lighted to tell you my experience with him for 
some years, and what I have learned from this 
apostle. " It is no better than Mohammedanism. 
And how the moneyed people can be hoaxed into 
sending money to such a sect, is my surprise. 
I," said he, ''am not envious. They will soon 
die. They are not one-fourth what they pretend 
to be." 

We took a carriage drive to the cemetered 
tomb of Rev. Calvin Kingsley, Bishop of the 
M. E. Church of New York, Sept. 8th, 1812. He 
died in Beyrout, April 6, 1870. He was 
making the first trip around the world for 
our church, and sickening here, died. On the 
tomb you find the inscription: — 

"Erected as a tribute of Affection and Es- 
teem by order of the General Conference of the 
Methodist Episcopal Church." 



362 HOLY LAND. 

The monument is gray granite, about 18 feet 
high, with base and shaft. The ground is beau- 
tifully kept and ornamented with flowers. 

Then we had to bid a long farewell to all our 
traveling companions and take a start for home. 
The former breaking was hard. The latter, hope 
of home and American friends was strong and 
beautiful to dream of. It was delightful to 
realize. 

We are obliged to the God of America and 
American people for our safe return. We are 
indeed glad to have seen other lands and other 
peoples— but America is our home. 



Finale, 



No one but a traveler can appreciate how 
brevity of description and detail must constitute 
this work. Many experiences which would de- 
light the aesthetic mind, and many a humorous 
incident and story which would cause mirth, is 
excluded for a glimpse of fact and wedge of 
thought to provoke the reader's mind to further 
inquiry. In the realm of fact, the writer has 
swept by many a rare gem, as the glass of the 
astronomer sweeps by myriads of stars and 
planets in the sky parlor of the heaven, in search 
of some peculiar treasure. 

We took ship from Beyrout April 2nd. We 
sailed for Alexandria, stopping at Jaffa and 
Port Said. At Alexandria we viewed the old 
historic city for forty hours, and then steamed 
across the sea for Naples. We touched Sicily at 
the growing city of Messina and examined with 
careful eye the island of Capri. Landing at 
Naples the fourth day, we saw the smoking, 
belching Vesuvius, Pompeii and the city itself 
again. Three days later we boarded the German 
Lloyd steamship, the ''Aller, " and aimed due 



364 FINALE. 

west for New York. Coming along the orange 
fringed shores of the Azores we ran through a 
school of sea dolphins, sporting in the water like 
children innumerable, entranced in play. Near 
the Devil's Hole, we met a furious storm, Avhich 
anchored us finally in a dense fog twenty-four 
hours, only thirty-four miles from New York 
harbor. 

One thing in our whole trip was grander than 
cities, temples, mountains, rivers, valleys, lakes, 
islands, monuments of men, pictures of art, or 
sculpture, sphinxes, or pyramids, or new found 
friends. It was our home coming. 

Busy and weary and tired of sight-seeing, the 
thought of home overwhelms one. Like a home- 
sick boy my heart beat high, and scarcely could 
I restrain my joys at the thought of meeting my 
home friends— the best of all friends— to be 
clasped again in my mother's arms as in boy- 
hood; to feel the print of those lips that had 
kissed me back to manhood when I was wander- 
ing ; and again had nerved to better things when 
obedient; was my one longing desire and assur- 
ance when seven thousand miles of sea lay be- 
tween us. And I, a lone foreign wanderer, was 
to grasp my father's honest hand and feel his 
thrill of prayer as I stepped over the threshold 
of my boyhood home. Again in my native land 
of Christian freedom my feet should glide into 



FINALE. 365 

loving homes which know no real want nor dark- 
ness, and that I should enjoy and appreciate as 
never before a civilization uneqnaled in variety, 
thronged upon my mind. To see my land of 
schools and flourishing colleges- under the banner 
of the Stars and Stripes, fluctuating and blos- 
soming into every conceivable manner of enter- 
prise and thrift under the invigorating air of 
liberty was to be my happy lot. 
, But I have walked "in His steps," studied 
God's Holy Word on the Lofty Mounts from 
which its sublime truths were dictated. My 
knowledge of the same has been confirmed by a 
journey of many miles and a studious examina- 
tion of antiquities ; by the revelations of the 
shovel and the spade. My faith and Christian 
experience have been unqualifiedly confirmed 
and strengthened at every turn of my sinuous 
journey. I shall teach God's certain truths as 
never before. My voice shall ring out the glad 
echoes to a free, intelligent and happy people. 
"In my Father's house are many mansions. If 
it were not so, I would have told you." I'll 
sing ' ' All Hail the Power of Jesus ' Name. " I '11 
defend the flag and the Constitution a believing 
patriot. I'll say with every loyal American in 
the words of Ruth^" Entreat me not to leave 
thee. Thy people shall be my people and thy 
God my God." 



366 ' FINALE. 

With devout thanksgiving to God that he has 
made this journey possible ; that my life has been 
spared in all the perils that surrounded me ; and 
that a benign and blessed Providence has at- 
tended my every step, I will here part company 
with you, my dear reader, praying that what 
you see through another's eyes may be blessed 
to your eternal good. 



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